Kit list to get the car up and the wheels off
Discussion
Hi,
I've decided to go for separate wheels for winter/ summer and would like some recommendations for affordable trolley jacks, chocks, torque wrench, and anything else I might need to change the wheels.
I don't intend to go under the car for anything, just changing the wheels twice a year and maybe cleaning out the arch liners and brake calipers.
The car is a 2011 5 series, so a reasonably hefty beast.
I've decided to go for separate wheels for winter/ summer and would like some recommendations for affordable trolley jacks, chocks, torque wrench, and anything else I might need to change the wheels.
I don't intend to go under the car for anything, just changing the wheels twice a year and maybe cleaning out the arch liners and brake calipers.
The car is a 2011 5 series, so a reasonably hefty beast.
Id steer clear of sgs stuff personally, not the best quality.
Dont cut corners on the cheaper jacks, i cant really recommend one but i need a new one soon so will be looking for recommendations.
Maybe Halfords advanced range is worth a look as ive never had any issues with their stuff.
Dont cut corners on the cheaper jacks, i cant really recommend one but i need a new one soon so will be looking for recommendations.
Maybe Halfords advanced range is worth a look as ive never had any issues with their stuff.
My trusty Sealey trolley jack i bought some 35 or maybe more years ago, twas just over £100 then, its done serious work with no issues and is still in use in semi retirement with daughter.
Its not especially low approach and struggled to get under one of her fleet, when Halfords had a recent sale she bought one of their pro range low-approach jobbies (recommended here as i recall and i messaged her the deal), its a very well put together tool, not cheap even when on sale but then cheap and jacks are not ideal mates.
For my much harder and more regular use i replaced the Sealey with a Weber, very good jack often found in tyre bays etc (which is where i first saw one and put me on to the make), it lifts one side of my Prado sized Landcruiser easily, the one i have is circa £300 now, but if one spent that and its still doing sterling safe service in 35 years time it wasn't expensive.
I like the Weber's lowering control, some cheap jacks lowering them down is all or nothing, all of a sudden the car drops, better quality jacks have much finer control.
Further things for the OP.
Six sided sockets, not that expensive for reasonable quality, impact (usually black) sockets are often too thick for wheelnut removal, decent quality ratchet and something along the lines of a sturdy breaker bar for undoing nuts in the first place, not as you need such leverage but keeping control is especially vital with locking wheel nuts to avoid headaches such as broken lockers or keys.
I use an old Britool click type torque wrench for a breaker bar, its over 2ft long and will not bend or slip, something like this gives absolute control for bolt removal, i don't like socket set type breaker bars, they're thin and inclined to bend so when a nut/bolt start to shift the torque sitting in the bend of the breaker bar comes into play.
I know the fashion is for using a torque wrench for wheelnuts, personally apart from truck wheels i've never used a torque wrench on car wheelnuts in some 50odd years of DIY and more just my trusty Teng ratchet for doing them up which again is over 35 years old, never had a wheel come loose nor ruined a wheelstud, you get a feel for when things are right.
Decent set of axle stands for safety, get the quick release ratchet type rather than ones you have lay underneath and poke pins through, but keep you fingers clear when releasing the ratchet when done.
Its not especially low approach and struggled to get under one of her fleet, when Halfords had a recent sale she bought one of their pro range low-approach jobbies (recommended here as i recall and i messaged her the deal), its a very well put together tool, not cheap even when on sale but then cheap and jacks are not ideal mates.
For my much harder and more regular use i replaced the Sealey with a Weber, very good jack often found in tyre bays etc (which is where i first saw one and put me on to the make), it lifts one side of my Prado sized Landcruiser easily, the one i have is circa £300 now, but if one spent that and its still doing sterling safe service in 35 years time it wasn't expensive.
I like the Weber's lowering control, some cheap jacks lowering them down is all or nothing, all of a sudden the car drops, better quality jacks have much finer control.
Further things for the OP.
Six sided sockets, not that expensive for reasonable quality, impact (usually black) sockets are often too thick for wheelnut removal, decent quality ratchet and something along the lines of a sturdy breaker bar for undoing nuts in the first place, not as you need such leverage but keeping control is especially vital with locking wheel nuts to avoid headaches such as broken lockers or keys.
I use an old Britool click type torque wrench for a breaker bar, its over 2ft long and will not bend or slip, something like this gives absolute control for bolt removal, i don't like socket set type breaker bars, they're thin and inclined to bend so when a nut/bolt start to shift the torque sitting in the bend of the breaker bar comes into play.
I know the fashion is for using a torque wrench for wheelnuts, personally apart from truck wheels i've never used a torque wrench on car wheelnuts in some 50odd years of DIY and more just my trusty Teng ratchet for doing them up which again is over 35 years old, never had a wheel come loose nor ruined a wheelstud, you get a feel for when things are right.
Decent set of axle stands for safety, get the quick release ratchet type rather than ones you have lay underneath and poke pins through, but keep you fingers clear when releasing the ratchet when done.
Just pop to Halfords and buy a trolley jack and a pair of axle stands if you want some, that will do the job. No need for a torque wrench, although one would be nice to have.
Do one wheel at a time, and do the nuts up tight. Then check the nuts are still tight after 100 odd miles.
If it was me I would just jack up the corner, swap the wheel and move to the next wheel. I wouldn't bother with a stand for a wheel change. (I do not recommend this approach though). You never see a tyre fitter use stands.
Biggest tip is to avoid putting any part of your body under the car if just on a jack.
Do one wheel at a time, and do the nuts up tight. Then check the nuts are still tight after 100 odd miles.
If it was me I would just jack up the corner, swap the wheel and move to the next wheel. I wouldn't bother with a stand for a wheel change. (I do not recommend this approach though). You never see a tyre fitter use stands.
Biggest tip is to avoid putting any part of your body under the car if just on a jack.
GreenV8S said:
Put the tyre you've just taken off under the sill so it can act as an emergency axle stand, in case the jack collapses. Don't put any part of yourself anywhere that would be crushed if the jack collapses.
^^^ this, and this is why something, axle stand, tree trunk, inflated spare wheel, should be slid underneath.Unless you are exceptionally strong given the weight of car tyres these days most of us can't line the wheel up when refitting without sliding knees/feet under the vehicle, especially the case with wheelbolts, slightly easier to line up and let the wheel hang when studs are fitted.
I shudder when i see people using cheap tiny jacks costing no more than a fish n chip supper for two.
Two additions:-
Whatever you do, don't use the regular toolkit scissor jack. Any trolley jack will be a massive improvement in both time saved and safety.
- A BIG copper hammer, as there's good chance the wheels may have corroded themselves onto the hub or centre bore
- Ceramic grease to smear on the hub face and bore so you don't face the same problem next time.
Whatever you do, don't use the regular toolkit scissor jack. Any trolley jack will be a massive improvement in both time saved and safety.
Hustle_ said:
How are we preventing our jacks and axle stands from damaging the undercoat / sill edges etc? is there a more high tech way than bits of wood, hockey pucks, carpet offcuts etc?
Is the OP's car old enough to have the plastic jacking points ? I'm not totally sure, but would be worth investing in https://www.amazon.co.uk/bmw-jack-pad/s?k=bmw+jack... that sort of thing.As far as jacks go, I have a clarke floor jack with a twist motion to release it. The problem with it is when it has weight on it its hard to release, it tends to be all or nothing, which usually results in the thing releasing suddenly and the car plummeting to the ground at a high rate. I thought it might loosen up with age, it has not and the more weight on it the more severe it is. Would avoid. I also have a sealey which has a separate release valve, it releases very slowly and progressively so you can even adjust the height if you find its too high, no chance with the clarke.
I tend to prefer the ratchet type of axle stand, they're not as convienient but a decent set feel safer than the tube and pin ones to me, certainly I wouldn't be trusting the fold up type I see around.
Crafty_ said:
Is the OP's car old enough to have the plastic jacking points ? I'm not totally sure, but would be worth investing in https://www.amazon.co.uk/bmw-jack-pad/s?k=bmw+jack... that sort of thing.
As far as jacks go, I have a clarke floor jack with a twist motion to release it. The problem with it is when it has weight on it its hard to release, it tends to be all or nothing, which usually results in the thing releasing suddenly and the car plummeting to the ground at a high rate. I thought it might loosen up with age, it has not and the more weight on it the more severe it is. Would avoid. I also have a sealey which has a separate release valve, it releases very slowly and progressively so you can even adjust the height if you find its too high, no chance with the clarke.
I tend to prefer the ratchet type of axle stand, they're not as convienient but a decent set feel safer than the tube and pin ones to me, certainly I wouldn't be trusting the fold up type I see around.
I like the idea of those, It does list the F11, I'll check the car in the morning, As far as jacks go, I have a clarke floor jack with a twist motion to release it. The problem with it is when it has weight on it its hard to release, it tends to be all or nothing, which usually results in the thing releasing suddenly and the car plummeting to the ground at a high rate. I thought it might loosen up with age, it has not and the more weight on it the more severe it is. Would avoid. I also have a sealey which has a separate release valve, it releases very slowly and progressively so you can even adjust the height if you find its too high, no chance with the clarke.
I tend to prefer the ratchet type of axle stand, they're not as convienient but a decent set feel safer than the tube and pin ones to me, certainly I wouldn't be trusting the fold up type I see around.
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