Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.7 CRD Various issues
Discussion
Hi there, this is my first post so appologies if any of this has already been covered.
I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.7 CRD which has some issues - nothing to stop it it driving, but things that are driving me mad.
- issues starting, especially at cold. Coils heated and key turned, the engine turns..... And turns.... And turns, but not firing up. I have changed the fuel pressure regulator, which didn't cure, but did make delivery nicer. I carried out a full service and the issue disappeared, which looked like an after market fuel filter, which I know these things don't really like. I have fitted a MANN filter (aftermarket, I know). The problem was gone for 5 days, until this morning and I had to use "easy start".
Could it really be something as simple as a genuine merc filter? Why would it have been ok for 5 days?
Any ideas?
- aircon, heater, etc. The dreaded blend doors, or is it? My heating Doesn't work. Hot or cold. The fan/motor sounds, but nothing (apart from a slight breeze which you can feel (hot or cold) coming from the 2 vents below the stereo or the window vents only. Nothing from the feet or the vents next to each door.
Is this like to be the blend doors only or could I need new aircon rad, etc?
Am I best to do the cheat fix (side of glove box) or the full dash removal? Does the side of the glove box fix allow dual zone to work? Also, where should I get my blend doors from?
When I do the heater fault code check I get fault codes -
52
54
56
I did have a 42, but that seems to have vanished.
Any ideas?
- stereo, any opinions on an after market stereo that fits (or can easily get a perfect surround trim. Preferably one that works a USB To link phone, USB stick, etc. Could even be a parrot asteroid, if they fit.
- head rest screens. The previous owner had fitted headrest screens (which are tiny) with the DVD player in the boot. All the wiring is fitted, and I'll assume still works, but the DVD player and screens are broke (buttons missing, etc.). Any ideas on a brand that I could fit? I can increase the whole/cut in the headrest easily or am I best getting ones that clip on and off the bars and remove the ones that are there (with new headrests)?
- someone has stolen my centre caps???? Why, I don't know. I went to the scrappy and got
Some that looked the same, but they don't fit. They were off a different allow type, but I thought Jeep would have produced wheels that use the same centre caps.
I know that's a lot to ask, especially on my first topic posting.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Simon
I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2.7 CRD which has some issues - nothing to stop it it driving, but things that are driving me mad.
- issues starting, especially at cold. Coils heated and key turned, the engine turns..... And turns.... And turns, but not firing up. I have changed the fuel pressure regulator, which didn't cure, but did make delivery nicer. I carried out a full service and the issue disappeared, which looked like an after market fuel filter, which I know these things don't really like. I have fitted a MANN filter (aftermarket, I know). The problem was gone for 5 days, until this morning and I had to use "easy start".
Could it really be something as simple as a genuine merc filter? Why would it have been ok for 5 days?
Any ideas?
- aircon, heater, etc. The dreaded blend doors, or is it? My heating Doesn't work. Hot or cold. The fan/motor sounds, but nothing (apart from a slight breeze which you can feel (hot or cold) coming from the 2 vents below the stereo or the window vents only. Nothing from the feet or the vents next to each door.
Is this like to be the blend doors only or could I need new aircon rad, etc?
Am I best to do the cheat fix (side of glove box) or the full dash removal? Does the side of the glove box fix allow dual zone to work? Also, where should I get my blend doors from?
When I do the heater fault code check I get fault codes -
52
54
56
I did have a 42, but that seems to have vanished.
Any ideas?
- stereo, any opinions on an after market stereo that fits (or can easily get a perfect surround trim. Preferably one that works a USB To link phone, USB stick, etc. Could even be a parrot asteroid, if they fit.
- head rest screens. The previous owner had fitted headrest screens (which are tiny) with the DVD player in the boot. All the wiring is fitted, and I'll assume still works, but the DVD player and screens are broke (buttons missing, etc.). Any ideas on a brand that I could fit? I can increase the whole/cut in the headrest easily or am I best getting ones that clip on and off the bars and remove the ones that are there (with new headrests)?
- someone has stolen my centre caps???? Why, I don't know. I went to the scrappy and got
Some that looked the same, but they don't fit. They were off a different allow type, but I thought Jeep would have produced wheels that use the same centre caps.
I know that's a lot to ask, especially on my first topic posting.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Simon
Edited by simoncoops1 on Tuesday 8th September 19:28
Can help with one of your topics, which is the blend doors.
From THIS SITE: -
The code numbers will be displayed on the screen one at a time.
22 or 54 – Left temperature door is broken or 47 - motor not responding.
24 or 56 – Right temperature door is broken or 48 - motor not responding.
54-56 are the most common and our Blend Door replacements are exactly what you need to get your Jeep®
toasty warm again.
From THIS SITE: -
The code numbers will be displayed on the screen one at a time.
22 or 54 – Left temperature door is broken or 47 - motor not responding.
24 or 56 – Right temperature door is broken or 48 - motor not responding.
54-56 are the most common and our Blend Door replacements are exactly what you need to get your Jeep®
toasty warm again.
How many miles has it done?
I find its quite difficult to get all the air out of these when you have changed a filter... A few times they have been difficult to start a few days after a filter change. On the occasions I have changed the filter on mine, and on a few other diesels without a priming pump I have always "pulled" the fuel through using a vacuum pump. there is one in the link below. (also useful for lots of things, including brake bleeding and fluid changes!) I really don't like cranking the engine over to fill the filters!
on the top of the filter there is a bleed screw, I have an adaptor that I screw in and "suck" the fuel through with the pump. Sometimes, If I don't have an adaptor I simply hold the pipe of the pump over the hole and let someone else to use the pump. this also works OK.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerplus-Manual-Fluid-Fue...
There are a few tips on my blog on a Jeep...
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/our-cars/jeep-grand-ch...
I would also check the black wire in the drivers door rubber.... have a look at the picture at the end of my blog!
I find its quite difficult to get all the air out of these when you have changed a filter... A few times they have been difficult to start a few days after a filter change. On the occasions I have changed the filter on mine, and on a few other diesels without a priming pump I have always "pulled" the fuel through using a vacuum pump. there is one in the link below. (also useful for lots of things, including brake bleeding and fluid changes!) I really don't like cranking the engine over to fill the filters!
on the top of the filter there is a bleed screw, I have an adaptor that I screw in and "suck" the fuel through with the pump. Sometimes, If I don't have an adaptor I simply hold the pipe of the pump over the hole and let someone else to use the pump. this also works OK.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerplus-Manual-Fluid-Fue...
There are a few tips on my blog on a Jeep...
https://jtccc.wordpress.com/our-cars/jeep-grand-ch...
I would also check the black wire in the drivers door rubber.... have a look at the picture at the end of my blog!
Ive not done anything yet with the fuel filter, but started no problem at all this morning.... Very frustrating. Could any air (if that's the issue) have pushed itself out?
I had a look at your website (with injector seal removal). Your kit that you made, do you still have it and would you part with it?
Also, does anyone know of a workshop manual that covers this model (2.7 CRD)? Easy to get 4.0l and 4.7l.
I had a look at your website (with injector seal removal). Your kit that you made, do you still have it and would you part with it?
Also, does anyone know of a workshop manual that covers this model (2.7 CRD)? Easy to get 4.0l and 4.7l.
hi, sorry but I sold the kit I made on Ebay a while ago as I figured I would not need the hole punch again. I have seen it done with a jig saw though....
here is a guide of another guy who has done it... bit of a bodge though!
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php...
I have found that sometimes air works itself out of the system, depends what type it is... try running it and just cracking the bleed screw on the filter so it dribbles out.
That black wire in the door also gave me no end of problems with flat batteries and hard starting. Thing is, I could not see it was broken as it was the copper wire INSIDE the insulation that had broke. If you pull the rubber back, you will see one thicker black wire, if its hard and brittle, I would replace it, its an easy job.
The only way I found it was the door moved with the wind while I was fault finding, and I saw the test meter reading swing, otherwise I could have been there forever trying to find the fault. If you Google "jeep broken door wire" there is loads on the problems it can give.
here is a guide of another guy who has done it... bit of a bodge though!
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php...
I have found that sometimes air works itself out of the system, depends what type it is... try running it and just cracking the bleed screw on the filter so it dribbles out.
That black wire in the door also gave me no end of problems with flat batteries and hard starting. Thing is, I could not see it was broken as it was the copper wire INSIDE the insulation that had broke. If you pull the rubber back, you will see one thicker black wire, if its hard and brittle, I would replace it, its an easy job.
The only way I found it was the door moved with the wind while I was fault finding, and I saw the test meter reading swing, otherwise I could have been there forever trying to find the fault. If you Google "jeep broken door wire" there is loads on the problems it can give.
simoncoops1 said:
Not sure if there's a method to message individuals but this is for "daveenty".
There is, but you may not have been here long enough or have enough posts as yet. Not sure how it works here.simoncoops1 said:
Do Jcparts deliver to the UK? I notice all prices are in dollars.
Yes they do. See HERE for details.simoncoops1 said:
How much would/do you ship for (Edinburgh area)?
No idea, nothing to do with me. Be aware that there will probably be duty, customs charges and possibly other bits to pay on top of the initial cost, though they're still cheap.
Simon, the start issue is probably best dealt with by getting it scanned, could be one of the myriad sensors playing up.
Same with the heater system, mine has had weird faults which we arestill getting to the bottom of.
All WJs had infinity stereos which use AIUI a non-standard interface to the AMP. You can rip the whole lot out & replace though.
Your profile doesn't say where you are but I can recommend Terry Cloke at A1 Chrysler in Higham Kent.
Same with the heater system, mine has had weird faults which we arestill getting to the bottom of.
All WJs had infinity stereos which use AIUI a non-standard interface to the AMP. You can rip the whole lot out & replace though.
Your profile doesn't say where you are but I can recommend Terry Cloke at A1 Chrysler in Higham Kent.
tr7v8 said:
Simon, the start issue is probably best dealt with by getting it scanned, could be one of the myriad sensors playing up.
Same with the heater system, mine has had weird faults which we arestill getting to the bottom of.
All WJs had infinity stereos which use AIUI a non-standard interface to the AMP. You can rip the whole lot out & replace though.
Your profile doesn't say where you are but I can recommend Terry Cloke at A1 Chrysler in Higham Kent.
I didn't know they all had the AMP... mine has which is a pain as I didn't fancy altering all the wiring to fit a standard head unit.Same with the heater system, mine has had weird faults which we arestill getting to the bottom of.
All WJs had infinity stereos which use AIUI a non-standard interface to the AMP. You can rip the whole lot out & replace though.
Your profile doesn't say where you are but I can recommend Terry Cloke at A1 Chrysler in Higham Kent.
agree about getting it scanned. I use a cheap ODB reader linked to my Iphone to read the codes on mine, although it does not do the gearbox codes.
buzzer said:
tr7v8 said:
Simon, the start issue is probably best dealt with by getting it scanned, could be one of the myriad sensors playing up.
Same with the heater system, mine has had weird faults which we arestill getting to the bottom of.
All WJs had infinity stereos which use AIUI a non-standard interface to the AMP. You can rip the whole lot out & replace though.
Your profile doesn't say where you are but I can recommend Terry Cloke at A1 Chrysler in Higham Kent.
I didn't know they all had the AMP... mine has which is a pain as I didn't fancy altering all the wiring to fit a standard head unit.Same with the heater system, mine has had weird faults which we arestill getting to the bottom of.
All WJs had infinity stereos which use AIUI a non-standard interface to the AMP. You can rip the whole lot out & replace though.
Your profile doesn't say where you are but I can recommend Terry Cloke at A1 Chrysler in Higham Kent.
agree about getting it scanned. I use a cheap ODB reader linked to my Iphone to read the codes on mine, although it does not do the gearbox codes.
As for the code reader I have a ELM one from fleabay which can read all the codes, but cannot reset them. That takes Terry & his proper Chrysler machine. In my case I have an Output Speed Sensor issue at the mo. This has triggered the EML light on the dash, new sensor is at Terry awaiting some time for me to get there so he can fit it.
tr7v8 said:
Yup European built & sold ones all came with the same Audio 180W system.
As for the code reader I have a ELM one from fleabay which can read all the codes, but cannot reset them. That takes Terry & his proper Chrysler machine. In my case I have an Output Speed Sensor issue at the mo. This has triggered the EML light on the dash, new sensor is at Terry awaiting some time for me to get there so he can fit it.
I wish I was closer to Terry!As for the code reader I have a ELM one from fleabay which can read all the codes, but cannot reset them. That takes Terry & his proper Chrysler machine. In my case I have an Output Speed Sensor issue at the mo. This has triggered the EML light on the dash, new sensor is at Terry awaiting some time for me to get there so he can fit it.
with my OBD reader I can reset some codes though?
Thanks for all the replies guys.
I'm based in Edinburgh, so quite a distance to Kent.
I'll try and sort my profile out to allow contact. Don't really fancy puting my contact details online for all to read??? But I really do need to get a hold of a manual.
Do you know who you sold the kit to? Bit of an ask, I know, but they may be done with it now.
Regarding the blend doors, I'll be in Florida (Orlando) in October. Is the an outlet for you guys over there? If not, how big/heavy is the unit and do you know the approx delivery time as I could order to my villa once I get there.
Stereo. I'll have a look at the amp and connectors. I just fancy an updated unit so I can connect more modern equipment, etc. And I really do fancy a parrot asteroid (think that's what they are called).
Diagnostics - I have access (albeit 120 miles away) to a Bosch factory diagnostic kit. This unit has access to all makes and models and updates (I think, 4 times per year). I have linked it up and it matched all the codes that I got on the dash by turning he ignition on and off 3x then leaving it on the 4th. These were:
P0340 - camshaft position sensor (bank 1 or single sensor)
The Check Engine Lamp (MIL) will illuminate during engine operation if this DTC is recorded.
A rationality error has been detected for loss of camshaft position sensor (no fuel sync). WJ 1999 &' 2000: Check the camshaft target wheel (located on the right side camshaft sprocket) for damage or excessive runout. The runout is very critical for proper camshaft signal input to the JTEC. The lateral runout on the target wheel should not exceed 0.012 inch.
P0620 - generator control circuit
P0700 - check transmission DTC's - input or output or output speed sensor failure.
P0100 - MASS or volume air flow circuit
P1685 - SKIM invalid key
We reset them all after the (full) service and fuel pressure regulator change. As yet, none of the faults have returned on the OBD or dash.
Mistake me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere (and I haven't done it as I can use the Bosch system) that you can reset the fault codes by quickly touching the - & + terminals on the battery????? And also, that if the faults are no longer valid, they will clear after 40 warm ups??
I'm based in Edinburgh, so quite a distance to Kent.
I'll try and sort my profile out to allow contact. Don't really fancy puting my contact details online for all to read??? But I really do need to get a hold of a manual.
Do you know who you sold the kit to? Bit of an ask, I know, but they may be done with it now.
Regarding the blend doors, I'll be in Florida (Orlando) in October. Is the an outlet for you guys over there? If not, how big/heavy is the unit and do you know the approx delivery time as I could order to my villa once I get there.
Stereo. I'll have a look at the amp and connectors. I just fancy an updated unit so I can connect more modern equipment, etc. And I really do fancy a parrot asteroid (think that's what they are called).
Diagnostics - I have access (albeit 120 miles away) to a Bosch factory diagnostic kit. This unit has access to all makes and models and updates (I think, 4 times per year). I have linked it up and it matched all the codes that I got on the dash by turning he ignition on and off 3x then leaving it on the 4th. These were:
P0340 - camshaft position sensor (bank 1 or single sensor)
The Check Engine Lamp (MIL) will illuminate during engine operation if this DTC is recorded.
A rationality error has been detected for loss of camshaft position sensor (no fuel sync). WJ 1999 &' 2000: Check the camshaft target wheel (located on the right side camshaft sprocket) for damage or excessive runout. The runout is very critical for proper camshaft signal input to the JTEC. The lateral runout on the target wheel should not exceed 0.012 inch.
P0620 - generator control circuit
P0700 - check transmission DTC's - input or output or output speed sensor failure.
P0100 - MASS or volume air flow circuit
P1685 - SKIM invalid key
We reset them all after the (full) service and fuel pressure regulator change. As yet, none of the faults have returned on the OBD or dash.
Mistake me if I'm wrong, but I read somewhere (and I haven't done it as I can use the Bosch system) that you can reset the fault codes by quickly touching the - & + terminals on the battery????? And also, that if the faults are no longer valid, they will clear after 40 warm ups??
I had a nightmare with one of these not starting. Exactly as you describe.
I won't bore you with the what I changed and tested, sufficient to say it was a real PITA, and one that left me worrying at night (customers car).
End result,air being sucked into the fuel filter via the housing (IIRC there was a hairline crack in it, or maybe the seals were a bit dodgy) - Apparently this is a known issue according to the parts man (Eventually).
Also the heater plugs were toast.
Right as rain after.
I won't bore you with the what I changed and tested, sufficient to say it was a real PITA, and one that left me worrying at night (customers car).
End result,air being sucked into the fuel filter via the housing (IIRC there was a hairline crack in it, or maybe the seals were a bit dodgy) - Apparently this is a known issue according to the parts man (Eventually).
Also the heater plugs were toast.
Right as rain after.
bearman68 said:
End result,air being sucked into the fuel filter via the housing (IIRC there was a hairline crack in it, or maybe the seals were a bit dodgy) - Apparently this is a known issue according to the parts man (Eventually).
Also the heater plugs were toast.
Sorry for being a nonce, but with the lack of a proper manual for this car and my limited mechanical expertise, what actual housing had the hairline crack and what needed replaced? Also, what is IIRC?Also the heater plugs were toast.
I have new glow plugs, just haven't got round to fit them yet.
Any pictures of the housing/IIRC and any merc/Bosch part number associated would be greatly received.
Thanks
simoncoops1 said:
Sorry for being a nonce, but with the lack of a proper manual for this car and my limited mechanical expertise, what actual housing had the hairline crack and what needed replaced? Also, what is IIRC?
I have new glow plugs, just haven't got round to fit them yet.
Any pictures of the housing/IIRC and any merc/Bosch part number associated would be greatly received.
Thanks
IIRC = If I recall correctly (well that's my interpretation anyway). (You can google piston-heads abbreviations)I have new glow plugs, just haven't got round to fit them yet.
Any pictures of the housing/IIRC and any merc/Bosch part number associated would be greatly received.
Thanks
I don't have any pics because it was a customers car, and about 3 years ago.
If you are facing the engine bay with the bonnet open - the fuel filter is located in the back right hand corner. It has some pipes running into an aluminium housing,and the filter itself is a cartridge affair that screws into the bottom of it. The ally housing was cracked.
This is an expensive main dealer part - change the heater plugs first, but be careful you don't break them.
simoncoops1 said:
- issues starting, especially at cold. Coils heated and key turned, the engine turns..... And turns.... And turns, but not firing up. I have changed the fuel pressure regulator, which didn't cure, but did make delivery nicer. I carried out a full service and the issue disappeared, which looked like an after market fuel filter, which I know these things don't really like. I have fitted a MANN filter (aftermarket, I know). The problem was gone for 5 days, until this morning and I had to use "easy start".
Could it really be something as simple as a genuine merc filter? Why would it have been ok for 5 days?
Any ideas?
one or more of the diesel injectors are on their way out, its a common fault I've changed loads for these exact symptoms. Your best bet is to pull them out and get them tested by a diesel component specialist, I used a company in Northampton called northants diesel specialist (or something like that)their a Bosch agent. Might be worth changing the injector seals at the same time cause if these fail it can make removing the injectors a right crap job. Could it really be something as simple as a genuine merc filter? Why would it have been ok for 5 days?
Any ideas?
simoncoops1 said:
- aircon, heater, etc. The dreaded blend doors, or is it? My heating Doesn't work. Hot or cold. The fan/motor sounds, but nothing (apart from a slight breeze which you can feel (hot or cold) coming from the 2 vents below the stereo or the window vents only. Nothing from the feet or the vents next to each door.
Is this like to be the blend doors only or could I need new aircon rad, etc?
Am I best to do the cheat fix (side of glove box) or the full dash removal? Does the side of the glove box fix allow dual zone to work? Also, where should I get my blend doors from?
When I do the heater fault code check I get fault codes -
52
54
56
I did have a 42, but that seems to have vanished.
Any ideas?
As you already know blend flaps- think you can get repair kits on ebay. Do both at the same time if ones failed the others not normally long after failing.Is this like to be the blend doors only or could I need new aircon rad, etc?
Am I best to do the cheat fix (side of glove box) or the full dash removal? Does the side of the glove box fix allow dual zone to work? Also, where should I get my blend doors from?
When I do the heater fault code check I get fault codes -
52
54
56
I did have a 42, but that seems to have vanished.
Any ideas?
The centre cap have different bore sizes for the wheels so as youve found not all are interchangable, the audio stuff unfortunately not my expertises but I'm sure someone can point you in the right direction.
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