Help :) Golf MK3 Battery/Non Starting

[TROOPER88]

Hi Guys
I have a 1998 MK3 Golf GTi and have owned it for 10 years.

I started it at 2pm to drive to work and although it started first time, it sounded a bit like the battery was a bit iffy. It never turns over for long but fires into life almost instantly.

I forgot about this until I jumped in the car at 11pm to drive home. Turn the key and all I get is the solenoid on the started clicking...

I try again with the same outcome but on the third attempt it fires into life. Again hardly any engine turning over but fires up nicely.

I notice that the clock has reset itself so I automatically think it must be the battery.

I stop at my ex's garage on the way home and running I have over 14 volts at the battery and with the engine off 12.5.....It also has pleanty of water in and there is a green led on the top which suggests the battery is good.

I am now thinking that it is the starter motor?

This though would not tie in with the clock loosing power though?

I drive home and switch the engine off but immediately try and restart it. It did start instantly but when I tried again the third and fourth time the solenoid just clicked.

I have to be up at 5:30am now for work....

The last thing I need is for the car not to start...
I have heard that tapping the starter with a hammer may make it work if this is where the problem lies.

When it fails to start the engine does not even turn over which again makes me think the starter....

Any suggestions??

Cheers

[aka_kerrly]

With the right equipment there is another test you can do on a battery to ensure that the cells inside are ok when under load as sometimes a battery can happily take charge but as soon as its under load the 12V can disappear. Anything under 9v an i doubt the starter will twitch.

Have you checked the battery terminals are nice and tight? that the starter trigger wire on the starter motor solenoid has a good contact and the earth on the starter.

Another culprit is the negative wire that extends from the battery terminal to the chassis leg to the block or gearbox.

Also, next time it plays up try wiggling the key in the ignition barrel as the switches can get worn out.

[TROOPER88]

aka_kerrly said:

With the right equipment there is another test you can do on a battery to ensure that the cells inside are ok when under load as sometimes a battery can happily take charge but as soon as its under load the 12V can disappear. Anything under 9v an i doubt the starter will twitch.

Have you checked the battery terminals are nice and tight? that the starter trigger wire on the starter motor solenoid has a good contact and the earth on the starter.

Another culprit is the negative wire that extends from the battery terminal to the chassis leg to the block or gearbox.

Also, next time it plays up try wiggling the key in the ignition barrel as the switches can get worn out.

Thank you.
Ok, I got it started but not that easily. First couple of attempts just made the starter click with no turning over.
After 3 or 4 attempts it started.

Just arrived at work and tested the battery with the meter again. With lights on it is now only reading circa 13.5 volts. Should it not be over 14 with the engine running?

I am pretty certain the battery is at fault. I will try and arrange for a new battery to be delivered here today.

[steveo3002]

check all the leads both ends might need cleaning up or tightening

and try a meter on it after its stood for a while

[paintman]

Try a jump lead directly from battery earth terminal to a good clean point on the block & see if that improves matters. Many problems like yours are caused by bad connections and/or corroded earth straps - the plastic covered ones being particularly as as the strap can corrode to nothing inside the sheath.

IIRC - I stand to be corrected - the little green indicator thing on a battery just indicates that the cell it's on is OK.

[TROOPER88]

Hi Chaps
Firstly thank you very much for all those that have contributed.

I decided I would call the AA out as I do not want a problem trying to get home after work on a Friday.

As you know we suspected the battery but it could have been any number of things and I wanted a definite answer to I could order the part.

So a nice guy from the AA turns up and we check the voltage with the engine off and it was over 12. We then use his handheld device to check the amps.
On the side of the battery it states the figure of 560 I think it was.

We get 240....

The patrol guy says 'there is your problem' to which I agree.
He then says 'you will never start it with only 240 amps....'

I said 'are you certain, as I believe I could start it...'

'99.99% he says; I have been doing my job 15 years....'

First try and it just clicks, second attempt and it fires into life leaving him scratching his head

It has been such a great car and when it starts normally, it just fires into life and hardly turns over at all....

We checked to ensure the battery is charging well from the alternator and it is so I will simply pick up a new battery on my way home from work.

The AA; great service, lovely chap and I learnt a bit at the same time

[Locknut]

If your battery is five years old or more you are on borrowed time so you should change it before going into any more diagnostics. I don't think you have mentioned the age anywhere.

[aka_kerrly]

Have you checked the condition of the earth cable to the gearbox yet?

Another test which you can do is get a good chunky bit of wire long enough to go from the battery LIVE to the trigger terminal on the starter motor (its a black/white striped wire)

What you need to do is put the ignition onto the second stage , ensure the car is in neutral!!!!, then in the engine bay use your wire to give the starter trigger terminal 12v - well hopefully more than 12v!

If the starter spins immediately and the engine starts then your problem is within the ignition circuit and usually it's the ignition switch which lives behind the ignition barrel - i cheap part but pain to fit.