MX5 '91 1.6 Eunos V-Spec Handbrake Help

[Sal92]

Hi,
so I just picked up a nice Japanese import with 14 years worth of service history, no rust etc - couldn't be happier really. Had no problems with it for the past few months but I got into the car this morning and the handbrake felt very loose and doesn't grip until pulled all the way. Up until now it has been very strong, going up about half way. It's been cold here over the last few days but I was wondering if any of you learned gents would offer some suggestions on how this change could have occurred literally overnight? I'm hoping I haven't snapped anything... Like I said i'm a bit of a greenhorn and not too mechanically minded so speak slowly!

[andyiley]

Most cars have 2 handbrake cables in one way or another, either one from the lever to each caliper/back plate, or 1 to one & a mid-point connecting cable to the other side.

So you have probably broken one of them & if I was a guessing man from what you say, I would think you have the second set-up & have broken the short one to the second caliper/back plate.

[wildoliver]

MX5 rear calipers are a pain in the arse, it's possible it's a cable (3 on an MX5 by the way, a short one from the lever to the splitter then 2 long ones to calipers) but if it was the centre cable you would have nothing at all, if it was one of the outer cables I don't think you would get any handbrake lock up at all either really, the handbrakes not got a huge range and I think the quadrant being all the way over would probably negate any effect the good side was able to have.

So I would think it will be a seized caliper, it's worth whizzing the wheels off and having a look in there you won't be able to do much till you do, one word of advice, do NOT buy ebay special calipers or cheapo replacements from anywhere, they aren't safe and a lot (including one I've had) have exploded the seals under pressure, in my case a mile after fitting it on the MOT bay rollers. Fit genuine Mazda items which are expensive or something a specialist like MX5 Parts offers as they will stand by them if anything goes wrong, I had the devils own job getting my money back from the dodgy ebay dealer.

[andyiley]

Sorry, but I VERY much doubt a seized caliper would explain why the "handbrake felt very loose and doesn't grip until pulled all the way."

The handbrake would feel very stiff & certainly wouldn't suddenly go all the way up as described by the OP.

Jack up the back end & you will find one brake on & one free to move, that is the side that you will find the problem with, and it will almost certainly be the cable snapped/end broken off.

[Sal92]

Thanks guys. Weirdly after a few days it seemed to have sorted itself out, I mean it doesn't really do much to slow the car at all if I tried to pull a handbrake turn or anything but it's firmed up again for normal use...

However I have noticed that it is drinking an obscene amount.. I commute thirty-ish miles a day with a light foot in traffic
and am using about 7-8 pounds worth of fuel per day... a noticeable drop in the gauge. I don't see anything leaking anywhere and it might just be the nature of the beast but surely that seems a bit much for a 1.6?...
I've read that an o2 sensor might be the culprit because 16 mpg seems a bit low....

[Richyvrlimited]

Sounds like a sticking caliper to me. Very common on MX5's. A sticking caliper won't make the handbrake feel stiff, quite the opposite in fact, it'll stick on and when the handbrake is released the cable goes loose.

More specifically the slider pins get gummed up and jam the mechanism. Disassemble, clean up and user proper slider grease (NOT copperslip, it's not a grease).

Whilst you're there back off the handbrake mechanism in the cockpit, and adjust the calipers till they're lightly dragging. then take up the slack on the handbrake.

Mine hold the car on a steep incline with 2/3 clicks of the ratchet.

Note that the handbrake on a 5 is weak, it also acts on the driven wheels, so expecting it to lock the rears for handbrake turns etc isn't realistic even when in 100% working order.

Edited by Richyvrlimited on Friday 13th February 11:31

[Perseverant]

I would suspect that the handbrake calipers are partially seized and perhaps not adjusted properly. If the levers on the calipers don't return, or return very slowly there will be slack in the cables. They are a fiddle to do at first, but with everything unstuck and kept greased, the handbrake works very well. Don't try to adjust the brake via the cables - it has to be done at the caliper first with an allen key accessible behind a plug on the inner side. A manual will make this fairly clear and you don't need any fancy tools, though a certain physical agility is handy if you're grovelling under the blasted car! Good luck!

[DrTre]

Bounce

Failed MOT on NS caliper having no braking efficiency. Freed up the mechanism a little, put it all back along with new caliper.
I changed it all, made sure I tightened the allen key bolts up and backed them off. Worked the pedal, checked again. All fine.
The mechanism works on both sides, at least, it moves.
Tried checking the wheels by hand. All looked OK.

Failed MOT again.

So, how likely is it that I need new cables? I mean, they either work the mechanism or not surely?
What am I doing wrong?
Any help welcome.

[Martin350]

It could be a cable issue.
You could slacken the cable at the handbrake, pop them off the calipers and try moving them in and out by hand. You should feel them be very stiff or graunchy if they've got gummed up with dirt / rust etc.

Or a set-up problem.

Did you slacken the cable fully at the handbrake lever before adjusting the caliper allen bolts?

If not I would try again like this;
- Back the adjuster nut of the cable right off
- Adjust pads with the allen bolts
- Press pedal ten times or so
- Check adjustment of pads again and that the mechanisms on the cailper are returning to their stops
- Adjust cable at the handbrake lever - making sure the brakes aren't binding when you've adjusted it

Good luck!