Meriva A suspension question

[beko1987]

Anyone ever replaced the front track rods on a Meriva A? Missus car sounds like a skeleton having a wk in a biscuit tin over even slight bumps in the road, lock to lock when stationary produces the sound and my MOT man said that the inner track rods were goosed on both sides (and wriggled them whilst on the ramp to confirm)

So, that's the next project sorted then! But can anyone confirm the parts before I go spending money?

I presume:

2 of these rods and ends

and possibly 2 of these gaitors if I ruin the old ones.

Then, whilst searching for the above links I found http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-VAUXHALL-CORSA-C-LOWER...

A Meriva A is just a Corsa C in drag isnt it? Is the suspension any different?

Cheers

[BritishRacinGrin]

If it's just the track rod end which has developed play, why replace the whole track rod? Disturbing the inner ball joint is best avoided if unnecessary- on most modern cars they barely ever cause trouble.

In my opinion, save your money on the track rod and gaiter and instead buy a pair of decent quality track rod ends.

[Jimmyarm]

We replace a far few steering arms, the ball joints do wear out.

It's good practice to replace the track rod ends at the same time.

Will obviously need the alignment done afterwards.

Personally, without a ramp and the special tool I have I wouldn't do it, the arms are fecking tight and access can be a pita.

Ps don't get cheap eBay parts, you will be doing them again a year later.

[beko1987]

The track rod ends are fine, it's the inner join that has play in, but whilst I'm under there I'd rather do some preventative replacement as well so I havent got to get back under when the next bit goes.

I was aiming to get the axle stands out and lie on the drive for the afternoon, I know it will make it more tricky than having a ramp but surely not impossible?

Might find my nearest vauxhall parts place and see how much genuine parts are, although going by the state of the roads replacement in a year may not be too far fetched... (at least the missus has stopped kerbing it to park...)

Reckon those ebay bits would be crap then? Had success with ebay before, the rear shocks I fitted last august are fine so far, only £25 each too.

[ch427]

There is no need to replace the steering tie rod just the track rod ends as suggested.
The drop links are the most common cause of these noises (the inner ones you describe)
Somewhere like euro car parts will probably be your best option or an online vauxhall specialist, use crap quality pattern parts and you will be back in there a year later.

[Jimmyarm]

ch427 said:

There is no need to replace the steering tie rod just the track rod ends as suggested.
The drop links are the most common cause of these noises (the inner ones you describe)
Somewhere like euro car parts will probably be your best option or an online vauxhall specialist, use crap quality pattern parts and you will be back in there a year later.

Have you read the OP ?

The MOT tester has shown him the steering arms are what is knocking about...

It is possible on the drive but they are a PITA to undo without a special tool and space is limited. I used to do it with molegrips and fecking hated doing them, now I have something that I'll find a link for and it is easy peasy

ETA; I can't find a link for the one I have, all the ones that come up are 'different' and imo mine is a much better design and easier to use.

Basically, behind the boot is a ball joint socket with the arm poking out. the back of the ball joint screws onto/into the steering rack. They are usually about 30/32 mm spanner size but you will never get a spanner on them due to the design and lack of space around the rack. The special tool slides over the ball joint bit and grips it so you can poke an extension down from the wheel arch to get onto the tool. To put some perspective on how tight they are, I use a 2 foot long half inch ratchet to undo them and even that can take some force. When I used to use molegrips, 9/10 times you would need a scaffold pipe on the molegrips to get them to budge, its the sort of thing that has you swearing a lot !

Edited by Jimmyarm on Friday 28th February 19:37

[ch427]

Jimmyarm said:

Have you read the OP ?

The MOT tester has shown him the steering arms are what is knocking about...

It is possible on the drive but they are a PITA to undo without a special tool and space is limited. I used to do it with molegrips and fecking hated doing them, now I have something that I'll find a link for and it is easy peasy

I did read it thanks,maybe the op will confirm which parts are at fault.

[Jimmyarm]

ch427 said:

I did read it thanks,maybe the op will confirm which parts are at fault.

He has said several times it's the steering arms....

I don't mean to come across as rude, the anti roll bar links on these do fail frequently and cause knocking but they would normally fail an MOT, the inner tie rods literally have to be falling out to fail. You would like to think an MOT tester knows the difference

Edited by Jimmyarm on Friday 28th February 19:41

[Spangles]

Jimmyarm said:

Basically, behind the boot is a ball joint socket with the arm poking out. the back of the ball joint screws onto/into the steering rack. They are usually about 30/32 mm spanner size but you will never get a spanner on them due to the design and lack of space around the rack. The special tool slides over the ball joint bit and grips it so you can poke an extension down from the wheel arch to get onto the tool. To put some perspective on how tight they are, I use a 2 foot long half inch ratchet to undo them and even that can take some force. When I used to use molegrips, 9/10 times you would need a scaffold pipe on the molegrips to get them to budge, its the sort of thing that has you swearing a lot !

Edited by Jimmyarm on Friday 28th February 19:37

The last Meriva ones I did I cut the tie rod off flushish with the ball joint and used a socket. Still bloody tight though.