Discussion
Thought I'd try you guys a I/we have sort of drawn a blank on the TVR Wedge pages
TVR 350i Wedge
Rover SD1 steering column and switchgear, single wiper, two speed with intermittent.
Switch is supposed to be, from the top: fast/slow/off/intermittent.
The lead that feeds the +ve to the switch is no longer live for some reason although the fuse is ok.
I have slow speed on the bottom two positions (which should be off & intermittent)
If I connect a flying lead live to the post on the switch, which should be live but isn't, I get: fast/slow/slow/slow with no off!
About to try and venture behind the dashboard - going in, I might be some time....
TVR 350i Wedge
Rover SD1 steering column and switchgear, single wiper, two speed with intermittent.
Switch is supposed to be, from the top: fast/slow/off/intermittent.
The lead that feeds the +ve to the switch is no longer live for some reason although the fuse is ok.
I have slow speed on the bottom two positions (which should be off & intermittent)
If I connect a flying lead live to the post on the switch, which should be live but isn't, I get: fast/slow/slow/slow with no off!
About to try and venture behind the dashboard - going in, I might be some time....
Skyedriver said:
Thought I'd try you guys a I/we have sort of drawn a blank on the TVR Wedge pages
TVR 350i Wedge
Rover SD1 steering column and switchgear, single wiper, two speed with intermittent.
Switch is supposed to be, from the top: fast/slow/off/intermittent.
The lead that feeds the +ve to the switch is no longer live for some reason although the fuse is ok.
I have slow speed on the bottom two positions (which should be off & intermittent)
If I connect a flying lead live to the post on the switch, which should be live but isn't, I get: fast/slow/slow/slow with no off!
About to try and venture behind the dashboard - going in, I might be some time....
A failed relay?TVR 350i Wedge
Rover SD1 steering column and switchgear, single wiper, two speed with intermittent.
Switch is supposed to be, from the top: fast/slow/off/intermittent.
The lead that feeds the +ve to the switch is no longer live for some reason although the fuse is ok.
I have slow speed on the bottom two positions (which should be off & intermittent)
If I connect a flying lead live to the post on the switch, which should be live but isn't, I get: fast/slow/slow/slow with no off!
About to try and venture behind the dashboard - going in, I might be some time....
Athlon said:
It might be the wiped contacts in the wiper motor gearbox have failed?
That sounds like a possible.Wiper motor is in a dry location although the car was "stored" for a long time
It doesn't look like it would come out easily though.
I honestly believe the switch to be ok. The power lead to it is no longer live for some reason but a connection is made somewhere when I connect a live to the correct post on the switch, just doesn't do the right thing wiper wise.
So I assume it is earthing somewhere.
Since putting it back together I,ve now lost dipped beam - high beam on both positions - not my week I think.
Tried earthing the wipere motor to the battery - long jumper leads - without success
Car had a blipper operated battery isolator - removed that tonight... no change
When I disconnected the high/low beam column switch, the headlights still work on high. Surely this cannot be right...
Car had a blipper operated battery isolator - removed that tonight... no change
When I disconnected the high/low beam column switch, the headlights still work on high. Surely this cannot be right...
Edited by Skyedriver on Wednesday 18th December 21:40
Hello Please go to the below link and download the PDF File
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
I will visit back later to check that you have the file and then we can go through this one
The first thing you should be checking is - Why is there no supply to the wiper switch?
When you find the supply fault all other faults may be revealed
Under no circumstances should you be connecting fly leads to the switch or motor unless you have removed the wiper delay unit and even then you could still easily burn out the park switch that is mounted to the gear end of the motor
Good luck, communicate later
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
I will visit back later to check that you have the file and then we can go through this one
The first thing you should be checking is - Why is there no supply to the wiper switch?
When you find the supply fault all other faults may be revealed
Under no circumstances should you be connecting fly leads to the switch or motor unless you have removed the wiper delay unit and even then you could still easily burn out the park switch that is mounted to the gear end of the motor
Good luck, communicate later
The wiper switch green supply wire does connect to the fusebox but I cant help you with fuse designations as I have no TVR information, does your diagram show what the fuse number is for the wiper circuit
If you know what fuse supplies the switch and you are struggling to get to the back of the fusebox you can "Delve Deeper by carrying out the following test from the front side of the box"
Keep in mind your ignition fuses (outputs all green wires) will be supplied from the ignition switch through a white wire and in most cases directly, if the fuses are not directly supplied by the ignition switch there will be a relay in the circuit to take the load off the ignition switch and the colour of the wire from that relay will still be white or white with a coloured trace
Take a good look at your diagram and see if there are other fuses supplied by the same ignition supply as the wiper fuse - I expect you to find several fuses supplied by the same wire that supplies the wiper circuit
If you find that the other fuses supplied by the same wire as the wiper fuse are live yet the wiper fuse is dead it means you have a faulty fusebox
Move on - "Delve Deeper by carrying out the following test from the front side of the box"
After disconnecting the column switch plugs connect a 5Watt bulb to the green supply wire at the wiper switch plug (use an old bulb holder or solder wires to a 5Watt bulb and test it works before going any further) - Now connect a 21Watt bulb from the wiper circuit fuse to the battery live - The 5Watt bulb at the column switch should now be glowing at full brightness, if the 5Watt bulb at the column switch is not at full brightness (easy to check full brightness by connecting your 5Watt bulb across the battery) - there is a problem with the wiring harness between the fusebox and column switch and that may explain your other arisen problem with the headlights staying on.
I did notice that you edited your post, editing a post when fault finding is concerned is a no go, I hope I am not wasting my valuable time here
Good luck and I will follow this topic
If you know what fuse supplies the switch and you are struggling to get to the back of the fusebox you can "Delve Deeper by carrying out the following test from the front side of the box"
Keep in mind your ignition fuses (outputs all green wires) will be supplied from the ignition switch through a white wire and in most cases directly, if the fuses are not directly supplied by the ignition switch there will be a relay in the circuit to take the load off the ignition switch and the colour of the wire from that relay will still be white or white with a coloured trace
Take a good look at your diagram and see if there are other fuses supplied by the same ignition supply as the wiper fuse - I expect you to find several fuses supplied by the same wire that supplies the wiper circuit
If you find that the other fuses supplied by the same wire as the wiper fuse are live yet the wiper fuse is dead it means you have a faulty fusebox
Move on - "Delve Deeper by carrying out the following test from the front side of the box"
After disconnecting the column switch plugs connect a 5Watt bulb to the green supply wire at the wiper switch plug (use an old bulb holder or solder wires to a 5Watt bulb and test it works before going any further) - Now connect a 21Watt bulb from the wiper circuit fuse to the battery live - The 5Watt bulb at the column switch should now be glowing at full brightness, if the 5Watt bulb at the column switch is not at full brightness (easy to check full brightness by connecting your 5Watt bulb across the battery) - there is a problem with the wiring harness between the fusebox and column switch and that may explain your other arisen problem with the headlights staying on.
I did notice that you edited your post, editing a post when fault finding is concerned is a no go, I hope I am not wasting my valuable time here
Good luck and I will follow this topic
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