Removing a stuck bolt (not nut)

Removing a stuck bolt (not nut)

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Discussion

sandman77

Original Poster:

2,623 posts

145 months

Saturday 2nd November 2013
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I am having trouble removing a rear drop link from the rear of my car.

The drop link has a long bolt about 3 inches) that goes through the wheel carrier. A nut then goes on the end and tightens it all together holding the shock in place.

Anyway, I got the nut off after soaking it in wd40 and using a breaker bar but the bolt Is stuck solid inside the wheel carrier. I am guessing it has been in there for 14 years and is held in with rust. I have tried hitting the open end with a heavy hammer to be avail. Any other suggestions on how to remove it? I know using heat on a nut works as the nut expands so I am guessing heat won't help in this situation?

All the guides I have read on how to remove these drop links suggest it is a 10 minute job.

blondini

477 posts

185 months

Saturday 2nd November 2013
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Plus Gas is a far better releasing agent than WD40.

PaulKemp

979 posts

152 months

Saturday 2nd November 2013
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Blow torch on bolt and carrier
A bit of heat makes a huge difference more than soaking overnight
I tried all the tricks when replacing discs all round on a Mondeo, a bit off heat and all was well

Wedg1e

26,891 posts

272 months

Saturday 2nd November 2013
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If you clout the open end long and hard enough you risk mushrooming it and then it won't pass through the bore.
You could try some heat but it'll probably take more than you think so look out for any rubber or plastic in the area that may melt.
My preferred option is usually just to drill stuck bolts out... often the heat of drilling, plus the reduction of stresses as you drill the centre out, loosens the remains enough for it to just drop out.
You do need a good drill and set of bits, a steady hand and patience for this to work though (and a spare bolt!).
A workmate of mine once told me that he'd drilled a stuck bolt to about 8mm then switched to an old masonry bit in a hammer action drill and the shock eventually knocked the bolt free, but I've never tried it.

sandman77

Original Poster:

2,623 posts

145 months

Saturday 2nd November 2013
quotequote all
Wedg1e said:
A workmate of mine once told me that he'd drilled a stuck bolt to about 8mm then switched to an old masonry bit in a hammer action drill and the shock eventually knocked the bolt free, but I've never tried it.
Now that sounds like a plan.

ch427

9,743 posts

240 months

Saturday 2nd November 2013
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put the nut back on half way and hit that, saves damaging the thread. Plenty of plus gas and turn the bolt head back and forth should help too.

DrDeAtH

3,618 posts

239 months

Sunday 3rd November 2013
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Use a spare nut unless you are replacing the original one. You will Muller it a little.
Plusgas, and plenty of it.

TallPaul

1,518 posts

265 months

Sunday 3rd November 2013
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I'd cut the excess of the bolt off, then get a breaker bar on the head and either twist it out, or snap the head off and drill it out. If its rusted in that much you'll want to replace it anyway- it cant cost more than a fiver for a new one!

Winky151

1,270 posts

148 months

Sunday 3rd November 2013
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Is it not in a position you can get a balljoint fork on it?

sandman77

Original Poster:

2,623 posts

145 months

Sunday 3rd November 2013
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I am going tackle this next weekend if the weather is kind to me. I will order a new drop link as there is no way this is going to be able to be saved again. I don't fancy trying to drill it out as it is pretty long. My plan is to cut off the ball joint and get a breaker bar on the end and twist it as I hit the other end with a hammer.

Thanks for all the tips. I will be using them.

TallPaul

1,518 posts

265 months

Monday 4th November 2013
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You could possibly try an impact gun on it, the shock may well loosen the rust. I've got a Snap-On battery powered one and there's very little it cant undo or break!

sandman77

Original Poster:

2,623 posts

145 months

Monday 4th November 2013
quotequote all
TallPaul said:
You could possibly try an impact gun on it, the shock may well loosen the rust. I've got a Snap-On battery powered one and there's very little it cant undo or break!
Oh, another good idea. Only problem is I don't have one. I do have a £40 amazon voucher to spend though. Do you know if one (that is worth having) can be bought for that price?

TallPaul

1,518 posts

265 months

Monday 4th November 2013
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sandman77 said:
Oh, another good idea. Only problem is I don't have one. I do have a £40 amazon voucher to spend though. Do you know if one (that is worth having) can be bought for that price?
I've not much experience with other makes and mine cost about £250 IIRC, but I see the 240v Clarke wrench for £61.00 gets quite good reviews- I've never used it so don't buy it on my say so!

SpaceGhost

121 posts

134 months

Friday 8th November 2013
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Cut it off, buy a new one. Never seen a droplink costing more than £20.

sandman77

Original Poster:

2,623 posts

145 months

Saturday 9th November 2013
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SpaceGhost said:
Cut it off, buy a new one. Never seen a droplink costing more than £20.
I have bought a new one (for £30 - pattern part, genuine ones are £60). It can't just be cut off, did you read the thread?

Anyway I have bought a new shock, drop link and an electric impact gun is on its way to me.

sandman77

Original Poster:

2,623 posts

145 months

Saturday 16th November 2013
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Finally got round to tackling this job today. Cut off the ball joint off the end so I could get a socket on it then a combination of a breaker bar, impact gun and hammer finally got it out. Took about 2 hours. New one installed in under 5 mins and the knocking noise is gone.

Thanks for all the tips.

GadgeS3C

4,516 posts

171 months

Sunday 17th November 2013
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Glad it's sorted - sounds like it was a major pain!

Petrolhead_Rich

4,659 posts

199 months

Sunday 29th December 2013
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sandman77 said:
I know using heat on a nut works as the nut expands so I am guessing heat won't help in this situation?
heating and cooling will break the "bond" between the two, might take a couple of heatings and coolings, but it's by far the best way with anything that is able to be heated without setting the surroundings on fire!