WD40 on brake discs for 4 week parking?
Discussion
Car being parked up for just over 4 weeks in the Algarve – damp and salty!
Fear of surface rust becoming more pitted, hence thought of WD40 on discs.
Is there a chemical reaction with the pads? The pads have to suffer road oil anyway… I’m not bothered about comments regarding a lubricant on the braking system per se, after a few presses of the brake pedal things will work fine I know. My one concern would be a chemical reaction beyond mere surface film. thx
Fear of surface rust becoming more pitted, hence thought of WD40 on discs.
Is there a chemical reaction with the pads? The pads have to suffer road oil anyway… I’m not bothered about comments regarding a lubricant on the braking system per se, after a few presses of the brake pedal things will work fine I know. My one concern would be a chemical reaction beyond mere surface film. thx
steveo3002 said:
doubt 4 weeks would do too much harm
i wouldnt use wd40 myself , if you are that worried have the wheels off and slip a carrier bag over the disc and secure it with an elastic band then refit the wheels
Making sure the carrier bag is holeless. Bin liners or fing charity bags work best..........i wouldnt use wd40 myself , if you are that worried have the wheels off and slip a carrier bag over the disc and secure it with an elastic band then refit the wheels
Is it April 1st?
WD40 on brake discs? don't be stupid, the surface rust will disappear after the first couple of brake applications, the WD40 (which is mostly paraffin) will contaminate the pads and you will end up with no brakes.
Total muppetry
You could leave it in gear and the handbrake off to prevent it sticking but DO NOT PUT WD40 ON YOUR BRAKES, ANYWHERE.
WD40 on brake discs? don't be stupid, the surface rust will disappear after the first couple of brake applications, the WD40 (which is mostly paraffin) will contaminate the pads and you will end up with no brakes.
Total muppetry
You could leave it in gear and the handbrake off to prevent it sticking but DO NOT PUT WD40 ON YOUR BRAKES, ANYWHERE.
Edited by Jazoli on Friday 1st November 19:58
I've seen someone use wd40 on brake discs, and been in the car several weeks later for the brake test. after a few dabs and a couple of long braking runs everything was fine. no dramas after that, nor until pad change over a year later. so, that obvious myth ?somewhat? busted, and before doing it on my own car, i was asking the home mechanics for more specific reasons why not - such as a chemical reaction or the wd40 penetrating deep into the pad. i was thinking of a light spray on exposed disc, not a concentrated stream directly onto pad. As i said, there's oil on the road all the time anyway which will get onto the discs during rain. I'm just pushing for real rationale. A bit like challenging american mechanics on 3000 mile oil changes...
Crafty_ said:
why bother ? the discs will clean up in a mile or two.
.
Appreciate that 4-5 weeks is probably still ok in most circumstances. Only i have suffered premature disc pitting in the past. damp, salty air leading to an MoT advisory on 2 yr old discs. Hence the thought of using some sacrificial protective layer that wouldn't seep deeply into the pads. An alternative?.
I have to do this regularly & hence suffer the premature failure of discs at MOT time.
I work offshore doing 2 weeks on every month, this means that every 2 weeks I get into my car to a film of rust on all discs and after time these build up into noticeable "tide marks" in the rust pits on the surface of the disc (left by the pads stopping rust in the contact area) and I have to say I have NEVER been tempted to lubricate my discs.
The choice I have is as follows :-
1. Replace £200/250 worth of discs & pads every 2 years before MOT time.
2. Lubricate discs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You may be surprised to hear that the cost of the discs & pads I consider cheaper than the cost to my life!
I can only suggest your mate either brakes with the sensitivity of a wooden block, or he had to change them & decided that to not sound quite so stupid, he would forgot to tell that part of the story!
I work offshore doing 2 weeks on every month, this means that every 2 weeks I get into my car to a film of rust on all discs and after time these build up into noticeable "tide marks" in the rust pits on the surface of the disc (left by the pads stopping rust in the contact area) and I have to say I have NEVER been tempted to lubricate my discs.
The choice I have is as follows :-
1. Replace £200/250 worth of discs & pads every 2 years before MOT time.
2. Lubricate discs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You may be surprised to hear that the cost of the discs & pads I consider cheaper than the cost to my life!
I can only suggest your mate either brakes with the sensitivity of a wooden block, or he had to change them & decided that to not sound quite so stupid, he would forgot to tell that part of the story!
Robert Elise said:
I’m not bothered about comments regarding a lubricant on the braking system per se, after a few presses of the brake pedal things will work fine I know.My one concern would be a chemical reaction beyond mere surface film. thx
Really?Your post is a contradiction in its self,`things will work fine I know` but you are concerned about chemical contamination!
common sense should tell you that its wrong without any knowledge of its contents.
The only good thing about this is that that car is nowhere near me.
I spray my lathes with WD40, it evaporates and the lathes still rust. Work that one out.
I'd be tempted to try some sort of tightly-secured carrier bag arrangement but using holeless bags and with a kilo sachet of silica gel inside.
You can put the silica gel bags in an oven to boil off any moisture that does get absorbed and then reuse them. I bought a load about 10 years ago to dry out my TVRs carpets, still use them during winter to keep mould away...
I'd be tempted to try some sort of tightly-secured carrier bag arrangement but using holeless bags and with a kilo sachet of silica gel inside.
You can put the silica gel bags in an oven to boil off any moisture that does get absorbed and then reuse them. I bought a load about 10 years ago to dry out my TVRs carpets, still use them during winter to keep mould away...
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