Seized Spark Plug
Discussion
The trusty K11 decided to cut out on me the other day as I was reversing out of the driveway. Initially I assumed it was battery related so charged it up but it still wouldn't start. Then I remembered that the plugs hadn't been changed in a while. I managed to remove the first 3 plugs and replace them, they were all pretty fouled.
The fourth plug however is proving to be a gigantic pain in the backside. I ended up snapping the arm from a recently purchased Draper spark plug wrench whilst trying to remove the plug. It seems to be seized on pretty well. Bought some PlugGas earlier and doused the plug with it, left it for 30 mins but its still not budging.
I'm trying not to be too heavy handed as I don't want to end up breaking the sodding plug but its not shifting at all. The car started fine with 3 fresh plugs but then cut out. Any ideas or suggestions?
The fourth plug however is proving to be a gigantic pain in the backside. I ended up snapping the arm from a recently purchased Draper spark plug wrench whilst trying to remove the plug. It seems to be seized on pretty well. Bought some PlugGas earlier and doused the plug with it, left it for 30 mins but its still not budging.
I'm trying not to be too heavy handed as I don't want to end up breaking the sodding plug but its not shifting at all. The car started fine with 3 fresh plugs but then cut out. Any ideas or suggestions?
Did the garage get it out?
I once had a similar thing with a seized wheel bolt, soaked it in plus gas and even broke a wheel brace so I gave up and drove to the local tyre bay. By the time I arrived I think the plus gas had had more time to work and the fitter removed it without even breaking sweat. He looked at me as if I was stupid
I once had a similar thing with a seized wheel bolt, soaked it in plus gas and even broke a wheel brace so I gave up and drove to the local tyre bay. By the time I arrived I think the plus gas had had more time to work and the fitter removed it without even breaking sweat. He looked at me as if I was stupid
Jimmyarm said:
Mojocvh said:
Lubrcate threads only when advised not off the cuff!
A wise man once said "Lubrication is the key to success"He also said "treat your motor like your missus"
I agree with Mick on this, I always lightly lubricate plugs and have never had an issue.
.........NGK does not recommend the application of lubricant to spark plug threads as the resultant reduction of frictional forces at the thread faces will render the torque charts inaccurate and over tightening could occur.......
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/...
....Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind.
An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur....
I do not fit spark plugs for a living.
http://www.ith.de/index.php/cmd/produkte.werkzeuge...
I hate to disagree, but we do not torque spark plugs.
If you read the instructions on spark plug installation in any manual they say something like:
If they have a compression washer (which every one I have ever installed has had) then do them up finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
Now that is not a torque setting as far as I am aware.
Yes that does equate to a torque reading, which when greased will be less, but if you do as per the instructions you CANNOT over torque a spark plug.
I have always used a very light smear of copperslip (or similar) and have never had one even get close to siezing.
If you read the instructions on spark plug installation in any manual they say something like:
If they have a compression washer (which every one I have ever installed has had) then do them up finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
Now that is not a torque setting as far as I am aware.
Yes that does equate to a torque reading, which when greased will be less, but if you do as per the instructions you CANNOT over torque a spark plug.
I have always used a very light smear of copperslip (or similar) and have never had one even get close to siezing.
A few years ago Champion used to sell a tool specifically for torgueing up spark plugs, mine sits in my toolbox and is (increasingly rarely) still used for taper seat plugs which can be absolute B******s to remove. Anyone ever tried to get a set of overtightened Motorcraft (or any other come to that)plugs out of a Pinto?
I was taught never to lubricate plug threads as the grease holds grit in it which could fall into the cylinder and is AFAIK not a recognised way of extending the life of an engine.
Just blow round the plugs with an air line before removal to minimise the possibility of the above occurring.
I was taught never to lubricate plug threads as the grease holds grit in it which could fall into the cylinder and is AFAIK not a recognised way of extending the life of an engine.
Just blow round the plugs with an air line before removal to minimise the possibility of the above occurring.
Auntieroll said:
A few years ago Champion used to sell a tool specifically for torgueing up spark plugs, mine sits in my toolbox and is (increasingly rarely) still used for taper seat plugs which can be absolute B******s to remove. Anyone ever tried to get a set of overtightened Motorcraft (or any other come to that)plugs out of a Pinto?
I was taught never to lubricate plug threads as the grease holds grit in it which could fall into the cylinder and is AFAIK not a recognised way of extending the life of an engine.
Just blow round the plugs with an air line before removal to minimise the possibility of the above occurring.
As you may have realised from my post, I have never come across tapered plugs, and I am sure they are a right b@stard for getting seized/overdone more easily.I was taught never to lubricate plug threads as the grease holds grit in it which could fall into the cylinder and is AFAIK not a recognised way of extending the life of an engine.
Just blow round the plugs with an air line before removal to minimise the possibility of the above occurring.
Yes you are right about the grease possibly getting bits stuck in it, but that is also why it is a good idea, because it does get stuck in it, as in does not fall into the plug hole.
Apart from that I am talking the tiniest smear, that is almost imperceptible, so not an issue anyway.
You are of course correct on your final point, you should ALWAYS blow the plug hole out first to remove any grit etc. before removing the plug.
andyiley said:
As you may have realised from my post, I have never come across tapered plugs, and I am sure they are a right b@stard for getting seized/overdone more easily.
Yes you are right about the grease possibly getting bits stuck in it, but that is also why it is a good idea, because it does get stuck in it, as in does not fall into the plug hole.
Apart from that I am talking the tiniest smear, that is almost imperceptible, so not an issue anyway.
You are of course correct on your final point, you should ALWAYS blow the plug hole out first to remove any grit etc. before removing the plug.
They are no worse than any other plug as long as a smear of copper lube mainly on the seat and they have not been putin by a gorrila Yes you are right about the grease possibly getting bits stuck in it, but that is also why it is a good idea, because it does get stuck in it, as in does not fall into the plug hole.
Apart from that I am talking the tiniest smear, that is almost imperceptible, so not an issue anyway.
You are of course correct on your final point, you should ALWAYS blow the plug hole out first to remove any grit etc. before removing the plug.
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