Body filler help
Discussion
Hi all, looking for help please
Just carried out some repairs to on my old car bodywork, filled, smoothed, primed and painted. Taking a lot of time getting things smoothed out it seems Iv'e wasted a long time as after spraying cellulose paint 50/50 mix on top the repair the filler has shrunk and there is a ring around the repair. Where I was expecting a light polish and "job done"it looks a mess.
Any ideas what causes this and how to overcome it please.
Just carried out some repairs to on my old car bodywork, filled, smoothed, primed and painted. Taking a lot of time getting things smoothed out it seems Iv'e wasted a long time as after spraying cellulose paint 50/50 mix on top the repair the filler has shrunk and there is a ring around the repair. Where I was expecting a light polish and "job done"it looks a mess.
Any ideas what causes this and how to overcome it please.
Not at that stage yet but I'm told Upol smooth 7 is better than big easy.
Another one that I see lots of people use is an american one called rage gold, made by evercoat.
If you want to combat shrinkage get the filler on and put the car out in the sun for a few days, heat/cool cycles should help to accelerate any shrinkage, which you can then rectify, hopefully with primer coats / stopper.
Another one that I see lots of people use is an american one called rage gold, made by evercoat.
If you want to combat shrinkage get the filler on and put the car out in the sun for a few days, heat/cool cycles should help to accelerate any shrinkage, which you can then rectify, hopefully with primer coats / stopper.
Edited by Crafty_ on Sunday 28th April 09:04
I use either Latico (from a local motor factor) or Loctite (Plastic Padding) Ultima. Good results with both, but Ultima is the better. Ultima comes either in tins or as a two cartridge system which measures the precise mix amount of filler & hardener. The cartridge holder is eye wateringly expensive to buy, I managed to get mine free.
When you fill you must prime or you will get the 'fried egg' effect around the filler edge. I use a 2k high build primer. I don't like aerosol primers as they can be incompatible with cellulose paints - the thinners attacks them - not an issue with 2k primers.
When you fill you must prime or you will get the 'fried egg' effect around the filler edge. I use a 2k high build primer. I don't like aerosol primers as they can be incompatible with cellulose paints - the thinners attacks them - not an issue with 2k primers.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 28th April 10:26
More info needed!
What did the filler go on top of, bare metal, galvanised steel, aluminium, old paint, factory paint, multiple layers of previous paint? Did you harden it with the correct ratio of catalyst? How long did you leave the primer for before applying the topcoat, did you flat the primer before applying the topcoat?
What did the filler go on top of, bare metal, galvanised steel, aluminium, old paint, factory paint, multiple layers of previous paint? Did you harden it with the correct ratio of catalyst? How long did you leave the primer for before applying the topcoat, did you flat the primer before applying the topcoat?
TallPaul said:
More info needed!
What did the filler go on top of, bare metal, galvanised steel, aluminium, old paint, factory paint, multiple layers of previous paint? Did you harden it with the correct ratio of catalyst? How long did you leave the primer for before applying the topcoat, did you flat the primer before applying the topcoat?
Well it went on top af all of that except alluminium , galvenised. the primer was left for a day flattened and top coat applied.What did the filler go on top of, bare metal, galvanised steel, aluminium, old paint, factory paint, multiple layers of previous paint? Did you harden it with the correct ratio of catalyst? How long did you leave the primer for before applying the topcoat, did you flat the primer before applying the topcoat?
I have used big easy and it has been ok (easy to sand), used 3 coats of high build primer to seal everything up after the filler and flat back between each coat for a nice finish, used wet n dry on last coat for a ready to paint surface.
Painted in black pearl celly (Halfords) with a 2k clear coat (ebay) both in aerosol cans first class finish!
It is harder than people think to get filler to blend into the surounding area and even the smallest repair will need a few coats of filler rubbing down between each application to acheive a seemless repair.
Additionally this can not be done in an afternoon it takes time for the filler and primer to fully harden and become dry enough to sand properly before appling the next coat, last filler/paint job I did was done over 2 days.
Painted in black pearl celly (Halfords) with a 2k clear coat (ebay) both in aerosol cans first class finish!
It is harder than people think to get filler to blend into the surounding area and even the smallest repair will need a few coats of filler rubbing down between each application to acheive a seemless repair.
Additionally this can not be done in an afternoon it takes time for the filler and primer to fully harden and become dry enough to sand properly before appling the next coat, last filler/paint job I did was done over 2 days.
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