Valve/rocker cover bolt
Discussion
When replacing the valve/rocker cover gasket on my daily snotter today,one snapped on coming out. Once I get what's left of it out, can I just use a bolt form 'b and q' as a replacement (it's an m6 x1.0 -6g spec on the parts list)? The dealer wants stupid money (£20) for a new bolt,or is there something special about the original??
Having a nightmare trying to get the broken bolt out. I drilled right through the middle of it over the course of an afternoon, put in a bolt extractor only to have that snap in half, with no way of getting it out 
. Don't think that I have any option other than to drill a hole and tap in a thread 
. Don't think that I have any option other than to drill a hole and tap in a thread smartphone hater said:
Do you mean drill another hole next to the original one? You wont drill through a broken extractor. If you have access to someone who can weld get them to weld a nut on top of the broken stud/extractor & remove it that way.
The usual type of screw extractors are s
t.
We've covered this numerous times on here. Screw extractors work fine when used appropriately i.e. the part to be extracted is not seized in place by e.g. corrosion. If you shear a fastener by over-tightening, chances are a screw extractor will get it out without any fuss. If you shear the head off trying to remove it because it's seized, then an extractor is likely to introduce even more pain to your world.The usual type of screw extractors are s
t.Mr2Mike said:
smartphone hater said:
Do you mean drill another hole next to the original one? You wont drill through a broken extractor. If you have access to someone who can weld get them to weld a nut on top of the broken stud/extractor & remove it that way.
The usual type of screw extractors are st.
We've covered this numerous times on here. Screw extractors work fine when used appropriately i.e. the part to be extracted is not seized in place by e.g. corrosion. If you shear a fastener by over-tightening, chances are a screw extractor will get it out without any fuss. If you shear the head off trying to remove it because it's seized, then an extractor is likely to introduce even more pain to your world.The usual type of screw extractors are s
t.The usual type of screw extractors are s
t at removing anything apart from an overtightened screw which has been so overtightened by some gorilla they've broken it, & even then I wouldn't hold my breath & would only use one as a last resort because as soon as one breaks you're screwed. You're far better off to either drill & tap if that's an option or weld a nut on the top. Better?
No its my PT Cruiser, taking the head off would cost more than the car is worth. I am making slow progress in drilling out the bolt extractor and remnants of the old screw, but cannot understand why its taking so long as the metal must be soft to just snap when I turned it with my hand. Once i get through, I'll just tap a new thread.
The original bolt wasn't seized,just a little stiff and snapped far to easily, that's why I went down the extractor route. Anyhow, I appear to be having great success in grinding away the remnants of the extractor and old bolt with a ball shaped, Dremmel attachment, which I assume is carbide. Here's hoping to getting it all out, so that I can drill a new hole and tap it.
In the end I drilled it out with one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-proxxon-diamond...
I used Dewalt extreme bits on the snapped bolt, but they would not go anywhere near the remnants of the bolt extractor.
I used Dewalt extreme bits on the snapped bolt, but they would not go anywhere near the remnants of the bolt extractor.
The old bolt and extractor was all drilled out. I could not re-tap a thread to take a new m6 bolt as the top half of the hole had got too big. Couldn't tap a thread for an M8 bolt as the old bolt had a sleeve and rubber grommet that would only fit over an m6 bolt. I used the sleeve and grommet on the new M6 bolt and instead of screwing it into the head, just used a nyloc nut and washer on the end to fix/tighten it in place. Where I bought the bolt, there was a retired chap also there who I found out restores old tractors and he said what I intended was ok. I guess I could have put in a heli coil/time sert, but I only needed to tighten it up to 12nm. Can't see any leaks. Will avoid bolt extractors at all costs in the future 
This car is becoming a hobby now, need to replace rusted rear sub frame brackets next as it will probably fail the MOT on this. Going to soak the bolts that keep these brackets on for a month before I start on it
This car is becoming a hobby now, need to replace rusted rear sub frame brackets next as it will probably fail the MOT on this. Going to soak the bolts that keep these brackets on for a month before I start on it
Edited by SwanJack on Tuesday 23 April 13:53
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