Ancient trailer wheelhub identification problems.

Ancient trailer wheelhub identification problems.

Author
Discussion

dave7bevan

Original Poster:

3 posts

140 months

Thursday 21st March 2013
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I'm not a mechanic but I said I'd change some bearings on my friend's trailer.

The specialist bearing supplier I used couldn't use a micrometer properly so I've ended up with one of the wrong bearings, which I should be able to sort out but...

I can't find out where to source a castle nut of any size and one of the studs broke whilst taking the wheel off.

It's a home made trailer, maybe 1990s, the wheels are much older though. We have been told it's not a Mini or Fiesta, it is a 10" rim.

The only detail I can make out on the hub:

2AC-TB-10-15C

although the Cs could be Gs and the B might be an 8!

Main questions are where to source the stud, castle nut and what torque setting I use?

Thanks for reading.

dave7bevan

Original Poster:

3 posts

140 months

Thursday 21st March 2013
quotequote all




Had to put these separately, sorry.

tr7v8

7,302 posts

235 months

Thursday 21st March 2013
quotequote all
What are the bearings? Taper or single row? If they are taper then you tighten to around 5lbs/ft or so & then slacken so there is no play or barely peceptable. If they are single row they'll probably have a spacer tube in there so will need to tighten to around 30 or so ft/lbs, maybe tighter.
The studs & castle nut will mean a trip to a fastner supplier to get them measured. Alternatively get a ruler & try counting threads per inch or threads turns per mm, that & diameter

paintman

7,765 posts

197 months

Thursday 21st March 2013
quotequote all
Have a look through the Trailer Tek catalogue. I've used them for quite a few parts for boat trailers - and am about to again. I've always found them to be very good - prices too!
http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/indexcat1.html

ETA I'd be surprised if the bearings aren't taper roller. I've always set those by nipping them up whilst spinning the wheel in the normal direction of rotation until there is resistance to turning. Then back off the nut, again spinning the wheel, until play can JUST be detected when the wheel is gripped with one hand at 12 & one at 6 and rocked. Never had an issue with MOT on cars that way either.
I HAVE had a taper roller seize due to no play (my own fault) - on a Scimitar - and the heat generated welded the inner race to the stub axle.



Edited by paintman on Thursday 21st March 17:40

TVR keith

1,389 posts

229 months

Thursday 21st March 2013
quotequote all
Its been many years since I looked at one but think maybe its a caravan type hub, possibly the type fitted to a "B&B" chassis as opposed to the later "AL-KO ones, if you showed a pic of it to a caravan dealer they would know

shoehorn

686 posts

150 months

Saturday 23rd March 2013
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TVR keith said:
Its been many years since I looked at one but think maybe its a caravan type hub, possibly the type fitted to a "B&B" chassis as opposed to the later "AL-KO ones, if you showed a pic of it to a caravan dealer they would know
An admirable but equally disturbing depth of caravan knowledgebiggrin

dave7bevan

Original Poster:

3 posts

140 months

Monday 25th March 2013
quotequote all
Local caravan dealers don't know where to get the parts so it looks like a write-off, but thanks everyone for the help.

phillpot

17,279 posts

190 months

Tuesday 26th March 2013
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You give up too easy wink


have you tried Indespension, a wheel stud (probably same as Mini or something common) and a nut, can't be that hard to find???