Cambelt fun on a 1993 Celica....

Cambelt fun on a 1993 Celica....

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Discussion

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Wednesday 5th September 2012
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Anyone out there changed one of these? I have a 93 Celica GT as the age of belt is unknown I decided to take the plunge and change it. Anyway so far I have got the top cover off and discovered the belt area is covered in engine oil (which isnt ideal) and the bottom pulley bolt wont come off.

Does anyone know if the pulley bolt turns clockwise or anti? And also what seal is likely to be responsible for leaking oil into the the cam covers?

pk500

1,973 posts

219 months

Wednesday 5th September 2012
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its anti clockwise to undo normal thread my 96 car the oil pump seal was leaking !

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Wednesday 5th September 2012
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Well that resolves the direction question, thanks! I might have to see if I can borrow an electric impact wrench as even with the car in fifth and brakes on the engine still wants to turn!

pk500

1,973 posts

219 months

Wednesday 5th September 2012
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Remove starter and jum up flywheel then use a 2 ft breaker bar

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Wednesday 5th September 2012
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Thanks PK500, jamming the flywheel should be fairly obvious, clearly I am not thinking that straight today!

Anyway, I have made progress of sorts, picked up an electric impact gun from my younger brother which I might use in place of my breaker bar and bought a pulley puller as I needed one.

A couple of bad camera phone pictures just to cheer the thread up, my alfresco workshop....


And the thing that bothers me oil all over the belt and tensioners...

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
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Update, the amazing electric impact gun, vibrates, makes lots of noise but it seems to either be broken or have a fail safe clutch and wont turn the nut....Deep joy! Also I have finally got the starter motor off (with a view to jamming the flywheel). Cant figure out a safe way to do this without possibly breaking teeth!

Will have to crack out the big breaker bar and try, try again....Sometimes I enjoy working on cars, this isn't one of them!


interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
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Update, update, just applied the totally unrecommended Red neck method... Put the starter back in, reconnect the alternator, disconnect the ignition. Then fit a socket and breaker bar, wedge it safely ish in position, move all possible damageable items and declared "watch this!".

I turned the ignition on flicked the starter and Gudunk, wrrrr!!!! I climbed gingerly out of the drivers seat crept under the car and joy of joys the bolts was loose! Now to get on with it...

The bad youtube video which inspired this stupidity....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zu5g95gpqo

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

262 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
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interloper said:
Update, the amazing electric impact gun, vibrates, makes lots of noise but it seems to either be broken or have a fail safe clutch and wont turn the nut....Deep joy!
Nope, completely standard behavior for electric impact guns unless you spend big money. They just don't have the grunt to deal with properly tight fasteners.

ch427

9,742 posts

240 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
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well done, a decent air impact gun is the only thing to touch these sometimes.

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Thursday 6th September 2012
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Final update for the day, the cam belt is off and the timing marks are errr marked up.

Tomorrow I shall hopefully stick it all back together and probably decide never to attempt anything like this on a modern-ish Jap car again, cant believe how tight the access is to some parts!

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

262 months

Friday 7th September 2012
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interloper said:
Final update for the day, the cam belt is off and the timing marks are errr marked up.

Tomorrow I shall hopefully stick it all back together and probably decide never to attempt anything like this on a modern-ish Jap car again, cant believe how tight the access is to some parts!
You big girl, try doing an MR2 Turbo or a Fiat Coupe 20VT or a ZS180. I don't know why I keep buying cars that are a bd to do the timing belts on biggrin

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Saturday 8th September 2012
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Big girl? Harsh but probably fair! Anywho I have most of it back together, ran out of time to complete it and other commitments mean that I wont get to work on the car till the middle of next week, hopefully the belt is on correctly!

A couple of thoughts, I don't recall using any of my trusty 13mm sockets on the car at all, is this a common Japanese thing to only use even numbered bolts?! My 14 and 12mm sockets had gone almost unused until this car came along (I had almost got to the poniut of binning them!). Secondly the little pin cam tensioner thing, who on earth dreamt that up? They need a slap!

Athlon

5,169 posts

213 months

Saturday 8th September 2012
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Yep, Jap cars tend to be even numbered for whatever reason!

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

262 months

Saturday 8th September 2012
quotequote all
interloper said:
A couple of thoughts, I don't recall using any of my trusty 13mm sockets on the car at all, is this a common Japanese thing to only use even numbered bolts?! My 14 and 12mm sockets had gone almost unused until this car came along (I had almost got to the poniut of binning them!).
Yes, every Jap car I have worked on uses even sized bolt heads. Annoying when your socket set doesn't have a 16mm socket...

interloper said:
Secondly the little pin cam tensioner thing, who on earth dreamt that up? They need a slap!
The hydraulic tensioner that you have to compress and hold in place with an allen key or drill bit? They are a bit fiddly, but OTOH it means you don't have any worries about setting up the belt tension correctly.

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Saturday 8th September 2012
quotequote all
Mr2Mike said:
The hydraulic tensioner that you have to compress and hold in place with an allen key or drill bit? They are a bit fiddly, but OTOH it means you don't have any worries about setting up the belt tension correctly.
Yes that's the beasty, when you put it that way I can see the point!

interloper

Original Poster:

2,747 posts

262 months

Monday 17th September 2012
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Finally a bit of an update, initially I thought all was well, car started fine, ran up the road, felt good etc etc. Then I got to some traffic lights and the engine dipped down to idle, except it didn't it just stalled.

I re started it but found I had no tickover, now this puzzled me. I got the car home and checked it over sure enough, it would rev but it would not idle.

I figured this was either a secondary problem or I had cocked up the timing.

I did a bit of googling found a procedure to deal with poor tick over (clean out part of the throttle) so I did that, re tried, still wouldn't tick over once warm, so re set the timing using a different method.

Re started the car and found that the different (proper method didn't work at all and the car ran like a bag of spanners. At this point I threw my tools around in disgust and called it quits!

Today I took the belt off again and found all my original markings and re set it as accurately as I could and fired it up. It ran fine to start with, ticked over (cold) and reved up okay but once warmed started to miss and needed throttle to pick the revs up. Any bright ideas?

Liamsaid

48 posts

179 months

Monday 17th September 2012
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Is the cam timing changing after the engine has been run for a while?
If so I'd check the old belt to see if its markings state how many teeth it had. I only know from the MR2's 3SGE, there is a 173 thooth belt and a 174 thooth belt. In MR2 production 1993 was the change over year.
If your new belt was 1 tooth different then cam timing would change as the engine is run.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

262 months

Monday 17th September 2012
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Liamsaid said:
If your new belt was 1 tooth different then cam timing would change as the engine is run.
No it wouldn't. The timing is determined only by the number of teeth on the cam and crank pulleys. If the cam pulley didn't have exactly double the number of teeth that the crank pulley does, the timing would be miles out after just a couple of engine revolutions.

Regarding idling problem, double check the connections to all the sensors (particularly temp sensor, MAP sensor, oxygen sensor etc), and ensure all vacuum pipes are connected with no splits.

Liamsaid

48 posts

179 months

Monday 17th September 2012
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Your right, ignore my stupid idea.
After posting I thought it probably couldn't happen, and if it did then it would put cam timing widly out within seconds of starting.

myles1972

9,557 posts

178 months

Tuesday 18th September 2012
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Probably totally unrelated to your issue, but when I removed the battery on my wifes car the throttle potentiometer needed resetting after. It gave the same exact symptoms as you. Did you remove the battery?