Splitting ball
Discussion
.. joints, specifically removing a lower ball joint from the upright.
Any ideas on the best ways to go about it? I have a joint splitter (looks similar to a tuning fork) but all it seems to do is make a lot of noise when smacked with the hammer or tear the boot. I only have axle stands to work on so room is limited.
Thanks.
Any ideas on the best ways to go about it? I have a joint splitter (looks similar to a tuning fork) but all it seems to do is make a lot of noise when smacked with the hammer or tear the boot. I only have axle stands to work on so room is limited.
Thanks.
The wedge ball joint splitting tools are useless IME, unless your aim is to split the rubber gaiter. You tend to need a scissors type splitter to get these undone.
What car is it, or more specifically is the balljoint attached to or integral with the end of the wishbone (most common) or part of the upright?
What car is it, or more specifically is the balljoint attached to or integral with the end of the wishbone (most common) or part of the upright?
Get two hammers, 1 big one, 1 smaller one.
Hold the big hammer directly against the metal of the upright inline with the middle of the ball joint taper. Hit the otherside of the upright inline with the first hammer. The shock will "ring" between the hammers, and the taper will just fall out!
Works every time (as long as you can get access to the taper for a hammer swing). for "split" taper joints on which a bolt is used to nip up the joint, generally using a wedge to open the joint it more effective.
Hold the big hammer directly against the metal of the upright inline with the middle of the ball joint taper. Hit the otherside of the upright inline with the first hammer. The shock will "ring" between the hammers, and the taper will just fall out!
Works every time (as long as you can get access to the taper for a hammer swing). for "split" taper joints on which a bolt is used to nip up the joint, generally using a wedge to open the joint it more effective.
Max_Torque said:
and the taper will just fall out!
I read that with some cynicism, and it took a few attempts manoeuvring the hammers into the right place, but all went exactly as you wrote. Fantastic I'll look at getting a scissor type splitter anyway, as it looks very effective for tight spots.
Thanks all, job jobbed
yorkshirephil said:
Dont bother ball joint splitters they are a waste of time and never needed, just get a decent sized hammer and keep hitting the housing that the taper goes into, the ball joint will just pop out.
Using a single hammer is a recipe for breaking or bending something in many cases, and simply won't work at all in others. The whole point of using two hammers is to constrain most of the force of the blow within the tapered housing.I have been a mechanic for 20 years and never had a problem with this method yet.
Mr2Mike said:
Using a single hammer is a recipe for breaking or bending something in many cases, and simply won't work at all in others. The whole point of using two hammers is to constrain most of the force of the blow within the tapered housing.
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