Legacy BH buying guide
Discussion
Just confirming you mean the model ending in 2003?, superb car, engine very good so long as serviced regularly, they don't tend to suffer from CHG issues like the 4 potters.
Check for rust in the rear subframe, thats the prime spot but also seen some with rust showing in the rear arches when you open the back doors.
From above if you shine a torch down the back of the engine both sides you can see the inner CV joints, these sit right over the cats so get hot which in time perishes and splits the boots...however these are a doddle to do, the output shafts stay in the gearbox and are secured to the drive shafts by roll pins, so, undo hub nut and whichever joints are necessary, then pull hub off drive shaft, drive roll pin out with drift and theres the drive shaft in your hands, joints are circlipped to the shaft so the whole shaft can be dismantled easily for rebooting and regreasing.
Check exhaust carefully, single pipe system but one of the silencers is a special, it has a by pass section which opens up under pressure at higher revs, you cannot buy this system aftermarket and like the XT Foresters most of those selling aftermarket mild steel jobbies are selling the standard 2.0 litre NA system as suitable, it isn't, its smaller bore and doesn't have the by-pass and will strangle the engine.
If it needs a system then MIJ at Walsall will make a fit a full cat back stainless while you wait, they made one for my BH Outback and the current Foz XT, both @ £299 all incl with lifetime guarantee...if you want an OE system from Subaru it will be up around the 4 figure mark.
Spark plugs are a bind to do, easiest from underneath but you'll need a variety of extension lengths because the chassis rails are close, prepare to find the backs of your hands and wrists skinned by the time you've the plugs swapped out.
Check for rust in the rear subframe, thats the prime spot but also seen some with rust showing in the rear arches when you open the back doors.
From above if you shine a torch down the back of the engine both sides you can see the inner CV joints, these sit right over the cats so get hot which in time perishes and splits the boots...however these are a doddle to do, the output shafts stay in the gearbox and are secured to the drive shafts by roll pins, so, undo hub nut and whichever joints are necessary, then pull hub off drive shaft, drive roll pin out with drift and theres the drive shaft in your hands, joints are circlipped to the shaft so the whole shaft can be dismantled easily for rebooting and regreasing.
Check exhaust carefully, single pipe system but one of the silencers is a special, it has a by pass section which opens up under pressure at higher revs, you cannot buy this system aftermarket and like the XT Foresters most of those selling aftermarket mild steel jobbies are selling the standard 2.0 litre NA system as suitable, it isn't, its smaller bore and doesn't have the by-pass and will strangle the engine.
If it needs a system then MIJ at Walsall will make a fit a full cat back stainless while you wait, they made one for my BH Outback and the current Foz XT, both @ £299 all incl with lifetime guarantee...if you want an OE system from Subaru it will be up around the 4 figure mark.
Spark plugs are a bind to do, easiest from underneath but you'll need a variety of extension lengths because the chassis rails are close, prepare to find the backs of your hands and wrists skinned by the time you've the plugs swapped out.
Edited by Smint on Monday 9th August 20:41
Smint said:
Just confirming you mean the model ending in 2003?, superb car, engine very good so long as serviced regularly, they don't tend to suffer from CHG issues like the 4 potters.
Check for rust in the rear subframe, thats the prime spot but also seen some with rust showing in the rear arches when you open the back doors.
From above if you shine a torch down the back of the engine both sides you can see the inner CV joints, these sit right over the cats so get hot which in time perishes and splits the boots...however these are a doddle to do, the output shafts stay in the gearbox and are secured to the drive shafts by roll pins, so, undo hub nut and whichever joints are necessary, then pull hub off drive shaft, drive roll pin out with drift and theres the drive shaft in your hands, joints are circlipped to the shaft so the whole shaft can be dismantled easily for rebooting and regreasing.
Check exhaust carefully, single pipe system but one of the silencers is a special, it has a by pass section which opens up under pressure at higher revs, you cannot buy this system aftermarket and like the XT Foresters most of those selling aftermarket mild steel jobbies are selling the standard 2.0 litre NA system as suitable, it isn't, its smaller bore and doesn't have the by-pass and will strangle the engine.
If it needs a system then MIJ at Walsall will make a fit a full cat back stainless while you wait, they made one for my BH Outback and the current Foz XT, both @ £299 all incl with lifetime guarantee...if you want an OE system from Subaru it will be up around the 4 figure mark.
Spark plugs are a bind to do, easiest from underneath but you'll need a variety of extension lengths because the chassis rails are close, prepare to find the backs of your hands and wrists skinned by the time you've the plugs swapped out.
Top man thank you for all that info Smint. Yes I did mean the series ending in '03. What are they like to drive? I'm just looking bat buying something to out the dog in the boot of and something that I don't mind putting through muddy country lanes. I thinking about getting it as a bit of an adventure wagon for my kids too. Check for rust in the rear subframe, thats the prime spot but also seen some with rust showing in the rear arches when you open the back doors.
From above if you shine a torch down the back of the engine both sides you can see the inner CV joints, these sit right over the cats so get hot which in time perishes and splits the boots...however these are a doddle to do, the output shafts stay in the gearbox and are secured to the drive shafts by roll pins, so, undo hub nut and whichever joints are necessary, then pull hub off drive shaft, drive roll pin out with drift and theres the drive shaft in your hands, joints are circlipped to the shaft so the whole shaft can be dismantled easily for rebooting and regreasing.
Check exhaust carefully, single pipe system but one of the silencers is a special, it has a by pass section which opens up under pressure at higher revs, you cannot buy this system aftermarket and like the XT Foresters most of those selling aftermarket mild steel jobbies are selling the standard 2.0 litre NA system as suitable, it isn't, its smaller bore and doesn't have the by-pass and will strangle the engine.
If it needs a system then MIJ at Walsall will make a fit a full cat back stainless while you wait, they made one for my BH Outback and the current Foz XT, both @ £299 all incl with lifetime guarantee...if you want an OE system from Subaru it will be up around the 4 figure mark.
Spark plugs are a bind to do, easiest from underneath but you'll need a variety of extension lengths because the chassis rails are close, prepare to find the backs of your hands and wrists skinned by the time you've the plugs swapped out.
Edited by Smint on Monday 9th August 20:41
Cheers
I’ve got the 3.0 H6 in my Outback (2007 model although don’t think the engine changed much over the years). It’s a lovely engine and still feels great after 120k miles. Properly quick too when you push it.
Mines at the age where most of the original suspension parts are starting to give up. If you’re looking at an older car I’d be looking for history that a lot of that work has already been done otherwise it does all add up.
Mines at the age where most of the original suspension parts are starting to give up. If you’re looking at an older car I’d be looking for history that a lot of that work has already been done otherwise it does all add up.
Pillskii said:
I’ve got the 3.0 H6 in my Outback (2007 model although don’t think the engine changed much over the years). It’s a lovely engine and still feels great after 120k miles. Properly quick too when you push it.
Mines at the age where most of the original suspension parts are starting to give up. If you’re looking at an older car I’d be looking for history that a lot of that work has already been done otherwise it does all add up.
Yeah I have heard the EZ30 engines are really good. Mines at the age where most of the original suspension parts are starting to give up. If you’re looking at an older car I’d be looking for history that a lot of that work has already been done otherwise it does all add up.
That's a good shout on the suspension bushes starting to give up. That's definitely something I'll be looking out for.
I'm actually looked at one that's being listed as having a gearbox fault, namely is doesn't select gears? Any ideas on cost?
The actual car itself looks very clean and it's only on 120k ish miles. Its a cheap price but I'm dubious as to what a rebuilt or replacement gearbox might cost?
Cheers
What are they like to drive?
One of the safest most stable cars on the road you'll ever drive, doesn't matter what you do (within reason) the car has so much grip and stability that it will just sort it out for you.
Soft suspension very comfortable seats.
Nasty junction to pull out onto? wet slippery road? no problem hard right floor the thottle and without the slightest detectable loss of grip it'll storm off like you were on a bone dry road.
The only slight issue we had was the starter motor isolator could play up in Park, only did it maybe once a year and simply starting it in Neutral did the trick.
We sold the Outback on and have a Forester 2.5XT now (wifey's but i use it a lot too), its not as comfortable or quiet as the H6 Outback, but has the same grip and stability and is more nimble aided by a better turning circle, would have had another Outback but the Foz was a bargain price with stupidly low mileage.
Neither are frugal, we had both LPG converted.
One of the safest most stable cars on the road you'll ever drive, doesn't matter what you do (within reason) the car has so much grip and stability that it will just sort it out for you.
Soft suspension very comfortable seats.
Nasty junction to pull out onto? wet slippery road? no problem hard right floor the thottle and without the slightest detectable loss of grip it'll storm off like you were on a bone dry road.
The only slight issue we had was the starter motor isolator could play up in Park, only did it maybe once a year and simply starting it in Neutral did the trick.
We sold the Outback on and have a Forester 2.5XT now (wifey's but i use it a lot too), its not as comfortable or quiet as the H6 Outback, but has the same grip and stability and is more nimble aided by a better turning circle, would have had another Outback but the Foz was a bargain price with stupidly low mileage.
Neither are frugal, we had both LPG converted.
Smint said:
What are they like to drive?
One of the safest most stable cars on the road you'll ever drive, doesn't matter what you do (within reason) the car has so much grip and stability that it will just sort it out for you.
Soft suspension very comfortable seats.
Nasty junction to pull out onto? wet slippery road? no problem hard right floor the thottle and without the slightest detectable loss of grip it'll storm off like you were on a bone dry road.
The only slight issue we had was the starter motor isolator could play up in Park, only did it maybe once a year and simply starting it in Neutral did the trick.
We sold the Outback on and have a Forester 2.5XT now (wifey's but i use it a lot too), its not as comfortable or quiet as the H6 Outback, but has the same grip and stability and is more nimble aided by a better turning circle, would have had another Outback but the Foz was a bargain price with stupidly low mileage.
Neither are frugal, we had both LPG converted.
I ran a '97 Volvo V90 for 18 months so I appreciate the words "not frugal". I also don't think anything will ever beat that for nimbleness of turning circle. One of the safest most stable cars on the road you'll ever drive, doesn't matter what you do (within reason) the car has so much grip and stability that it will just sort it out for you.
Soft suspension very comfortable seats.
Nasty junction to pull out onto? wet slippery road? no problem hard right floor the thottle and without the slightest detectable loss of grip it'll storm off like you were on a bone dry road.
The only slight issue we had was the starter motor isolator could play up in Park, only did it maybe once a year and simply starting it in Neutral did the trick.
We sold the Outback on and have a Forester 2.5XT now (wifey's but i use it a lot too), its not as comfortable or quiet as the H6 Outback, but has the same grip and stability and is more nimble aided by a better turning circle, would have had another Outback but the Foz was a bargain price with stupidly low mileage.
Neither are frugal, we had both LPG converted.
The way they drive sounds very appealing. With regards to that starter solenoid playing up I'm sort of thinking that could be the problem with this one I'm watching. If it's something major I guess I need to budget at least £1k for repairs? 🤷🏻♂️
What year is the Outback you have? Is it the 4spd auto?
BigTallG87 said:
I ran a '97 Volvo V90 for 18 months so I appreciate the words "not frugal". I also don't think anything will ever beat that for nimbleness of turning circle.
The way they drive sounds very appealing. With regards to that starter solenoid playing up I'm sort of thinking that could be the problem with this one I'm watching. If it's something major I guess I need to budget at least £1k for repairs? ???????
What year is the Outback you have? Is it the 4spd auto?
No longer have it, ours was on a 52 plate.The way they drive sounds very appealing. With regards to that starter solenoid playing up I'm sort of thinking that could be the problem with this one I'm watching. If it's something major I guess I need to budget at least £1k for repairs? ???????
What year is the Outback you have? Is it the 4spd auto?
What i like especially about the Outback is the plastic cladding all round which goes half way up the doors, its tough stuff, and the bumpers are there for a reason not for styling, sensible size tyres too, 215/60 x 16 should be fitted which whilst not cheap as chips aren't wallet busting either.
Note, as with all Japanese cars strip clean and lube the brakes every year if possible, but you'll be pleased to know the manual parking brake is the good old drum inside disc design which rarely gives any trouble so long as you maintain it.
Smint said:
BigTallG87 said:
I ran a '97 Volvo V90 for 18 months so I appreciate the words "not frugal". I also don't think anything will ever beat that for nimbleness of turning circle.
The way they drive sounds very appealing. With regards to that starter solenoid playing up I'm sort of thinking that could be the problem with this one I'm watching. If it's something major I guess I need to budget at least £1k for repairs? ???????
What year is the Outback you have? Is it the 4spd auto?
No longer have it, ours was on a 52 plate.The way they drive sounds very appealing. With regards to that starter solenoid playing up I'm sort of thinking that could be the problem with this one I'm watching. If it's something major I guess I need to budget at least £1k for repairs? ???????
What year is the Outback you have? Is it the 4spd auto?
What i like especially about the Outback is the plastic cladding all round which goes half way up the doors, its tough stuff, and the bumpers are there for a reason not for styling, sensible size tyres too, 215/60 x 16 should be fitted which whilst not cheap as chips aren't wallet busting either.
Note, as with all Japanese cars strip clean and lube the brakes every year if possible, but you'll be pleased to know the manual parking brake is the good old drum inside disc design which rarely gives any trouble so long as you maintain it.
You're right about the tyres too I've looked at few prices for half decent all season tyres and they aren't mega money in the 215/60 16 size.
Yeah shoes inside rear discs are very reliable and do t often because many problems. I'm all honesty it's uncommon for me to even use the handbrake daily unless I have to park on a really steep hill. I'm a bit of a sod for that.
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