Best Variation of Impreza
Discussion
Evening ladies and gents!
Very new to the scooby scene- I’m looking to join the crew of Subaru owners. I’ve done a fair bit of reading on them, but I’m still a little lost when it comes to different variations.
I took a GB270 out over the weekend- brilliant; but maybe I’m biased as I’d been wanting to drive an Impreza for far too long!
I see that aside from the GB270, you have the RB320, WRX, WRX STI, Type UK...and then on top of all that, the various different iterations such as the blob eye, Hawkeye, etc etc.
Cutting to the chase- what are the differences? What is the best model to go for? A 320 is out of my budget really. And ideally- although I have heard many stories of chocolate engines where the 2.5 is concerned- I’m after a later version, between 2005 and 2008.
Is the GB270 worth the price difference over the standard 2.5 WRX saloon? Is it better to get a tidy WRX 2.5 and then mod it yourself? How fragile is the engine really?
Any info you guys have is greatly appreciated
Very new to the scooby scene- I’m looking to join the crew of Subaru owners. I’ve done a fair bit of reading on them, but I’m still a little lost when it comes to different variations.
I took a GB270 out over the weekend- brilliant; but maybe I’m biased as I’d been wanting to drive an Impreza for far too long!
I see that aside from the GB270, you have the RB320, WRX, WRX STI, Type UK...and then on top of all that, the various different iterations such as the blob eye, Hawkeye, etc etc.
Cutting to the chase- what are the differences? What is the best model to go for? A 320 is out of my budget really. And ideally- although I have heard many stories of chocolate engines where the 2.5 is concerned- I’m after a later version, between 2005 and 2008.
Is the GB270 worth the price difference over the standard 2.5 WRX saloon? Is it better to get a tidy WRX 2.5 and then mod it yourself? How fragile is the engine really?
Any info you guys have is greatly appreciated
As you have specified 2005-2008 this suggests you are looking for a hawkeye car.
The major differences between the hawkeye variants are:
WRX vs STI: STI comes with six-speed (more ratios and stronger), DCCD (more rear-biased and entertaining handling), a bit more power, the widetrack chassis and various other small refinements that add up to a significantly better car all round. The GB270 is just a dressed-up WRX with a few basic mods like exhaust and map that you would do anyway, and you pay a premium for the special edition.
UK vs JDM: the UK cars come with the notorious 2.5 block. Many people have run this engine without issues but there have also been many who have experienced problems, so caveat emptor. The JDM cars come with the more robust EJ20 block and also a twin-scroll turbo for more linear power delivery although you lose the characterful burble due to the equal-length exhaust manifold. The JDM cars are also notably thirsty due to the twin-scroll as you are always using the turbo even at low revs, compared with the UK single-scroll where you can more easily drive off boost (and therefore is laggier). The RB320 is a UK STi with Prodrive suspension (worth having), Recaros and a paint job.
Unless you absolutely have to have a hawk, I'd suggest a UK or JDM widetrack blobeye STi which came with the EJ20 in UK as well as JDM versions. IMO the widetrack blob STi is the sweet spot of all the newage cars as it comes with EJ20 plus DCCD with a 66% rear bias compared with the 59% rear bias of the hawk STi, for more entertaining handling. You can identify a widetrack car from the plastic rear arch extensions, and it will be on a 54 or 05 plate.
Either that or a JDM non widetrack blobeye which also comes with 66R/33F DCCD. The non widetrack UK cars (WR1 excepted) do not have DCCD and therefore have a more understeery 50/50 torque bias.
The major differences between the hawkeye variants are:
WRX vs STI: STI comes with six-speed (more ratios and stronger), DCCD (more rear-biased and entertaining handling), a bit more power, the widetrack chassis and various other small refinements that add up to a significantly better car all round. The GB270 is just a dressed-up WRX with a few basic mods like exhaust and map that you would do anyway, and you pay a premium for the special edition.
UK vs JDM: the UK cars come with the notorious 2.5 block. Many people have run this engine without issues but there have also been many who have experienced problems, so caveat emptor. The JDM cars come with the more robust EJ20 block and also a twin-scroll turbo for more linear power delivery although you lose the characterful burble due to the equal-length exhaust manifold. The JDM cars are also notably thirsty due to the twin-scroll as you are always using the turbo even at low revs, compared with the UK single-scroll where you can more easily drive off boost (and therefore is laggier). The RB320 is a UK STi with Prodrive suspension (worth having), Recaros and a paint job.
Unless you absolutely have to have a hawk, I'd suggest a UK or JDM widetrack blobeye STi which came with the EJ20 in UK as well as JDM versions. IMO the widetrack blob STi is the sweet spot of all the newage cars as it comes with EJ20 plus DCCD with a 66% rear bias compared with the 59% rear bias of the hawk STi, for more entertaining handling. You can identify a widetrack car from the plastic rear arch extensions, and it will be on a 54 or 05 plate.
Either that or a JDM non widetrack blobeye which also comes with 66R/33F DCCD. The non widetrack UK cars (WR1 excepted) do not have DCCD and therefore have a more understeery 50/50 torque bias.
Amazing! Thanks for the lowdown!
Aesthetically, the hawk just looks better to me. Obviously though there has to be the consideration of long term implications when it comes to the slightly less robust engine.
Outside of forging the engine, what else can you do to protect the integrity of it? And what should you look out for when buying one?
Aesthetically, the hawk just looks better to me. Obviously though there has to be the consideration of long term implications when it comes to the slightly less robust engine.
Outside of forging the engine, what else can you do to protect the integrity of it? And what should you look out for when buying one?
Your safest best on an EJ25 is a base WRX that hasn’t been remapped. 227 bhp isn’t stressing the block or gearbox and is still enough to have fun with.
Rust is starting to become an issue so have a good look around, particularly around the front and rear suspension turrets. Other than that, just your usual used-car checks. These are simple cars and EJ25 issues aside, generally robust.
Rust is starting to become an issue so have a good look around, particularly around the front and rear suspension turrets. Other than that, just your usual used-car checks. These are simple cars and EJ25 issues aside, generally robust.
Reid95 said:
Amazing! Thanks for the lowdown!
Aesthetically, the hawk just looks better to me. Obviously though there has to be the consideration of long term implications when it comes to the slightly less robust engine.
Outside of forging the engine, what else can you do to protect the integrity of it? And what should you look out for when buying one?
All the body panels and interiors are interchangeable across all the newage models. They just bolt on. So you can make a 2001 look like a 2007 or anything in between. Pretty much all the mechanicals are also interchangeable across all the models too.Aesthetically, the hawk just looks better to me. Obviously though there has to be the consideration of long term implications when it comes to the slightly less robust engine.
Outside of forging the engine, what else can you do to protect the integrity of it? And what should you look out for when buying one?
An STi will cost twice as much as a similar age and condition WRX. They are all easy to work on and maintain. Suspension needs to be in top condition with a proper wheel alignment to get the most out of driving them. WRX needs a remap to come alive. 2.0 will do big miles if cared for. 2.5 is "better" engine due to increased torque but flawed design has potential to fail regardless of maintenance and use. £4k+ for a professional forged rebuild.
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