Best rustproofing solution for Subaru
Discussion
Aged 42 i've finally managed to buy my first Scooby the ultimate car from my teen years. However, I now wish to rust proof and protect the car. Does anyone have experience with rustproofing a Scooby and recommendations for the best products? I've just been reading this blog post https://www.tiltrak.com/car-rust-proofing/ Are Dinitrol products any good?
I concur, a combination of Dinitrol and the https://www.bilthamber.com/ products are what I used on my Lancer Turbo and also the inner wheel arches of my Impreza. The rest of the Impreza will get the Dinitrol treatment once I've dealt with the chunk of rust I've just found under the sill 
I would do the following;
Clean any surface rust properly and treat with Dinitrol RC900
Hand paint (just to save fumes) either Zinc182 or Red Oxide primer, allow several coats and let dry correctly
Apply Dinitrol 4941 (I think) waxy Black stonechip shield, again lots of coats with drying time
Once this lot is finally dry, top coat with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 with either aerosol cab or brush on (can comes with long extension)
Should last a long time after that lot
Clean any surface rust properly and treat with Dinitrol RC900
Hand paint (just to save fumes) either Zinc182 or Red Oxide primer, allow several coats and let dry correctly
Apply Dinitrol 4941 (I think) waxy Black stonechip shield, again lots of coats with drying time
Once this lot is finally dry, top coat with Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 with either aerosol cab or brush on (can comes with long extension)
Should last a long time after that lot
Before you start buying - start taking bits of the car off first to establish if you have a more serious issue:
Firstly look at the subframe beneath the radiator (remove the plastic undertray to expose everything) These are a known rot spot.
Remove the front wheel arch liners. It will be a certainty that in the area at the back of the wheel arch by the door pillar there will be a build up of dirt, soil and God knows what trapped in there. Once you clear it out you will then find hopefully clean metal or rust and gaping holes!
Remove the side skirts and check the cills, starting by the front wings then check where the rear wheel arch meets the cills. Have a good poke around, just because it may look like there's underseal, behind it could well be fresh air!
Check the rear wheel turret tops. These collect dirt and rot from the inside out, so take apart the boot lining too. This is an issue on Wagon models so not too sure on saloon models but worth checking.
If the rear wheel arch is bubbling near the edge of the bumper, strip the interior panels of the boot and look inside and see what is going on - could be full of filler if someone has been there before, if not treat all of the area big time!! Also check the drain holes in the at the bottom of the rear panels just behind the rear wheel arch about 3" back from where a mudflap would hang. These block up and cause the cavity in the boot/rear panel to hold water and therefore rot through.It's a plastic disc about the size of a 50p that unplugs with a bit of help with a flat blade screwdriver. It should have a drain hole in it, but it's safe to say it will be blocked.
Usual things, check drain holes on doors etc. but I'd start with the above. Just because it is shiny on the outside doesn't mean it is solid beneath the bits of plastic. Beware!!
Firstly look at the subframe beneath the radiator (remove the plastic undertray to expose everything) These are a known rot spot.
Remove the front wheel arch liners. It will be a certainty that in the area at the back of the wheel arch by the door pillar there will be a build up of dirt, soil and God knows what trapped in there. Once you clear it out you will then find hopefully clean metal or rust and gaping holes!
Remove the side skirts and check the cills, starting by the front wings then check where the rear wheel arch meets the cills. Have a good poke around, just because it may look like there's underseal, behind it could well be fresh air!
Check the rear wheel turret tops. These collect dirt and rot from the inside out, so take apart the boot lining too. This is an issue on Wagon models so not too sure on saloon models but worth checking.
If the rear wheel arch is bubbling near the edge of the bumper, strip the interior panels of the boot and look inside and see what is going on - could be full of filler if someone has been there before, if not treat all of the area big time!! Also check the drain holes in the at the bottom of the rear panels just behind the rear wheel arch about 3" back from where a mudflap would hang. These block up and cause the cavity in the boot/rear panel to hold water and therefore rot through.It's a plastic disc about the size of a 50p that unplugs with a bit of help with a flat blade screwdriver. It should have a drain hole in it, but it's safe to say it will be blocked.
Usual things, check drain holes on doors etc. but I'd start with the above. Just because it is shiny on the outside doesn't mean it is solid beneath the bits of plastic. Beware!!
Edited by Pupbelly on Wednesday 1st April 13:25
Gassing Station | Subaru | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff