04 Blob Wheelarch underseal
Discussion
Hi,
Having just had the discs / pads replaced I decided to tidy up the mud and crud etc from under the rear wheelarches. I used a stiff ,non wire brush to get nearly all of it off, I'm left with a "mosaic" of blue / black. Question being, is the black stuff factory underseal?, because if so it is very thin and flaking off with the use of a brush.
Am I best removing as much as I can then using some Bilt Hamber clear over it, or using some brush on stuff, or leaving well alone and going down the pub?.
Having just had the discs / pads replaced I decided to tidy up the mud and crud etc from under the rear wheelarches. I used a stiff ,non wire brush to get nearly all of it off, I'm left with a "mosaic" of blue / black. Question being, is the black stuff factory underseal?, because if so it is very thin and flaking off with the use of a brush.
Am I best removing as much as I can then using some Bilt Hamber clear over it, or using some brush on stuff, or leaving well alone and going down the pub?.
If it's JDM spec it probably didn't come with any underseal, they don't tend to in the arches that's for sure, it may well be some old underseal job? If it was mine and I planned on keeping it I would get it protected....something is better than nothing. If it's a daily car used through winter and all weathers I'd be looking at getting something more heavy duty like Dinitrol, otherwise Dynax UC clear seal is good if it's a garage car and not heavy winter use.
Get someone else to do it and continue going to the pub.
Get someone else to do it and continue going to the pub.
It's not JDM sadly 
just a run of the mill UK model.
The underseal (or black stuff) is very thin and flaking off, leaving blue painted bodywork underneath. It is my daily driver so unfortunately I'll be the one having to underseal it!. Guess I'd better order some Dinitrol and get cracking before it gets too cold.
just a run of the mill UK model.The underseal (or black stuff) is very thin and flaking off, leaving blue painted bodywork underneath. It is my daily driver so unfortunately I'll be the one having to underseal it!. Guess I'd better order some Dinitrol and get cracking before it gets too cold.
My 2005 car has the same problem and I assumed it was what the factory put on. I was also contemplating BH UC too.
I also removed the rubber strips protecting the rear arches as there was a lot of dirt stuck right under the arch.
One other place I found a lot of muck was at the rear of the front wheel arch at the bottom where it meets the side skirt. IIRC you have to remove the side skirt, but there is a cavity there which drainage water runs through. Was about 3" high with wet dirt.
HTH
I also removed the rubber strips protecting the rear arches as there was a lot of dirt stuck right under the arch.
One other place I found a lot of muck was at the rear of the front wheel arch at the bottom where it meets the side skirt. IIRC you have to remove the side skirt, but there is a cavity there which drainage water runs through. Was about 3" high with wet dirt.
HTH
It's worth inspecting the inside of the arch from the boot. There was a build issue at the factory whereby they appplied sealent to where the inner arch meets the floor before applying paint. So essentially bare metal under the sealent, which acts as a sponge. So the arches quite often rot from the inside out. The driver's side always seem to suffer worst corrosion. The fuel filler pipe attracts moisture and often the suspenson turrets corrode from the bottom.
Another vote for Bilt Hamber UC. Bought my blob and the previous owner (off here!) had done it. It's still immaculate underneath and got that comment at the most recent MOT. Check this thread and have a look at the undersealing: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you're reading Neil, still loving the car
If you're reading Neil, still loving the car
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