4 wheel alignment
Discussion
Hi,
Can someone explain the benefits of this, and if it's necessary or worthwhile doing to a daily driver?.
I've been offered a set of eibach bolts for the rear for a tenner (which I understand can be used to adjust the rear camber), still in the packet, brought but not used by a friend who had a blobeye a few years ago.
Scoobynet has an interesting write up, and tbh it's something I'd never even thought or indeed heard about until I was offered the bolts.
Can someone explain the benefits of this, and if it's necessary or worthwhile doing to a daily driver?.
I've been offered a set of eibach bolts for the rear for a tenner (which I understand can be used to adjust the rear camber), still in the packet, brought but not used by a friend who had a blobeye a few years ago.
Scoobynet has an interesting write up, and tbh it's something I'd never even thought or indeed heard about until I was offered the bolts.
i'm not saying they don't work , i personally would not do the rears , i adjusted the front standard subaru camber bolts , the biggest change was fitting coilovers , if you fit the bolts then just get a proper suspension set up done or it's a waste of time , and see how you feel , i would not do it partially as car drives well and the cost of doing the set up again v the improvements
some info below -
For a DCCD-A car: -
Front Camber (make sure it's equal side to side)
Minimum -1° 10’ Preferred -1° 15’ "Track" -1° 20’ / -1° 30’
Front Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 02’ Preferred 0° 06’ Maximum 0° 10’
Front Caster Standard Subaru (more is good)
Rear Camber Standard Subaru (make equal side to side if at all possible)
Rear Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 06’ Preferred 0° 10’ Maximum 0° 14’
Thrust angle Minimum -0° 01’ Preferred 0° 00’ Maximum 0° 01’
Non DCCD-A car is the same accept: -
Front Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 00’ Preferred 0° 01’ Maximum 0° 03’
Rear Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 02’ Preferred 0° 6’ Maximum 0° 10’
These settings do fall into the stock Subaru "envelope" hence the recommendation that you "use stock settings" they are also conservative settings that are designed not to cause to much tire wear.
However, these are UK based setting's and they will reduce understeer, so in effect making the car more suited to a competent driver.
For a DCCD-A car: -
Front Camber (make sure it's equal side to side)
Minimum -1° 10’ Preferred -1° 15’ "Track" -1° 20’ / -1° 30’
Front Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 02’ Preferred 0° 06’ Maximum 0° 10’
Front Caster Standard Subaru (more is good)
Rear Camber Standard Subaru (make equal side to side if at all possible)
Rear Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 06’ Preferred 0° 10’ Maximum 0° 14’
Thrust angle Minimum -0° 01’ Preferred 0° 00’ Maximum 0° 01’
Non DCCD-A car is the same accept: -
Front Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 00’ Preferred 0° 01’ Maximum 0° 03’
Rear Toe-in (Total) Minimum 0° 02’ Preferred 0° 6’ Maximum 0° 10’
These settings do fall into the stock Subaru "envelope" hence the recommendation that you "use stock settings" they are also conservative settings that are designed not to cause to much tire wear.
However, these are UK based setting's and they will reduce understeer, so in effect making the car more suited to a competent driver.
MDMA . said:
so in effect making the car more suited to a competent driver.
That's me out of the equation then lol.Seriously, thanks for the info. I'm slowly getting my WRX sorted out, with thanks to members here and the knowledge base. I'm thinking in the New Year of a new set of tyres and a geometry set up. It's had new Genuine subaru shocks at the rear replaced by the owner 2 years ago and the tyres seem to be wearing evenly, but I do get a noticeable amount of understeer though, more so than my old 07 plate Hawkeye did.
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