Returned to Impreza ownership - some advice needed.

[texaxile]

Just picked up a 2004 WRX PPP in blue, the last owner had it for 9 years and it's been kept fairly well.

I've been scanning the service history , it's had main dealer up to 50k and from then on by Extreme Scoobies up until early last year. It's now overdue another service and I've a couple of questions to ask before doing so, hopefully the collective can help me out a bit.

I purchased on condition rather than age, stuff like 4 matching Good years, receipts for EBC pads and Brembo discs from a couple of years ago, a well kept service diary and a general good all round condition, but I get the impression the guy kind of lost interest last year, hence the late service schedule and nothing done over the last 16 months. The mileage between the MOT's from 2 years ago is 13,000, 6500 done in the last year to date. Mileage now is 84K.

It'll be in for a service next week, with the intention of doing all belts apart from the Cam belt which was done in 2014 (although I'll get a visual check done) it'll have a coolant drain and refill, plugs, oil , filters etc.

Is it worth doing gearbox and diff oils as well while it's up on the ramp?.

What's the best oil to use in these?. I always go to Opie but there's a lot of choice, so any personal recommendations would be appreciated. Same goes for plugs, as I'm not sure which are the best to get.

My previous Impreza was a Hawk, and while I did like the car I never really took to it for some reason. It wasn't without its problems and seemed to had had a fairly hard life, but the servicing was always done at the main dealer, whereas with this blob it'll be an independant.

[Stants]

If your having everything else done be silly not to do the box and diff oil, Least that way it's had a major service and won't be due for 3 years, think the belt interval went up to 5 years or 100k on new age, does the cambelt change receipt show idlers/ pulleys done at the same time ? These normally go beofre the belt,

Gearbox oils I've just gone for the millers 75/90 crx gear oil, seems to have made the cold start 1st to 2nd notchy change a little slicker bit my box is approaching 140k

Plugs wise ngk pfr6b or 7's depending on what power it's running would be best bet imo

[texaxile]

Hi Stants, you're right it's a no brainier for the extra hours labour plus the cost of oils. The receipt just shows a full cam belt replacement from Subaru dealer, so I'd assume they do the whole lot. It's showing the thick end of £640 for fitting etc.

Oil wise there's a lot of info out there, some on scoobynet suggest 10w40 for slightly older engines, so I'm really not sure what is for the best, and the oil grade isn't listed on any of the later receipts.

Lastly, does anyone know what kind of things tend to go on the blobs, or general stuff I should be looking out for?.

Thanks in advance .

[tonyb1968]

Oil, 10w40 Shell Helix Semi Synthetic is what Subaru use on these, I would go with a good 5w40 rated fully Synthetic, plenty of decent ones out there, no need for 10w50 or 10w60 oils in these cars tbh.

As for the servicing, get the lot done, belts (5yrs), diff and gearbox oils (2 years for diff/gearbox) etc, then YOU know where you are up to, even if the cam/aux belts were changed 2 years ago, you didn't see who did it, always best for a decent piece of mind

[Stants]

Does it still have the oem under tray on ?

The u shaped front subframe brace is prone to rotting out, moisture then gets trapped between that and the rest of the frame causes all sorts of bother.

If the trays still there then it shouldn't be an issue but loads of one's I've seen they tray is long gone, apart from that the usual stuff really rear arches etc

[TEKNOPUG]

Subaru prescribe 5w-40 but most engine builders will tell you that they should run on 10w-40. 5w just being to too thin to offer proper start-up protection (unless you live in the arctic).

Brakes are not very good. Rear arches rust from inside out. Other than that, nothing particular to worry about, just keep on top of the preventative maintenance and use some common-sense mechanical sympathy.

[texaxile]

Thanks for the replies so far. Stants, the OEM undertray is still in place so hopefully that's an issue which I won't encounter (and didn't check tbh). bodywork is good all round, no rot peeping through that I could see.

I think I'll probably go for a 10W40 oil, any suggestions as to which would be appreciated. I'm a big fan of Helix and use it in the Lancer Turbo so if there is a 10W40 application of Helix I'll probably use that but it's not necessarily a given that I will.

Just had a chat to the mechanic today and said that I'll supply the brake fluid, engine, gearbox and diff oils plus filters and he'll provide the coolant. I'm not too struck on the braking ability of the WRX's, my hawkeye wasn't brilliant, and the fluid in this one is noteably dirty so with any luck it might improve things a bit. He did frown a bit when I mentioned plugs, apparently they're a bit of an arse on Imprezas, even up on a ramp but is there a cheat method / easier way of doing them?.

[TEKNOPUG]

Any decent fully-synth will do. I've always used Sylkoline/Fuchs Titan R but I'm sure something by Millers of Shell would be just as good.

Even in full working order, I don't think that the OEM brakes are any more than adequate. Especially once you start upping the power above the paltry stock 220bhp. You can get big disc conversion kits, or STi Brmebos or aftermarket (APs, Willwood etc) and that's the only way to really make them confidence inspiring.

No easy way to change the plugs I'm afraid, that's the nature of the Boxer engine - limited head room.

I'd also consider fitting a new uprated fuel pump and a battery too whilst you are at it.

[tonyb1968]

TEKNOPUG said:

Subaru prescribe 5w-40 but most engine builders will tell you that they should run on 10w-40. 5w just being to too thin to offer proper start-up protection (unless you live in the arctic).

Brakes are not very good. Rear arches rust from inside out. Other than that, nothing particular to worry about, just keep on top of the preventative maintenance and use some common-sense mechanical sympathy.

5w oil is perscribed by Subaru, but only in fully synthetic form, nothing wrong with it, its 0w oil (especially in classics) where they say its not recommended.

Mobil made a 5w40 for Subaru back in the 90's on Subaru's recommendation, these guys built the engine and know what it is capable of and would have tested it with all the oil types they recommend in the manual (including 5w ones )

[TEKNOPUG]

tonyb1968 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

Subaru prescribe 5w-40 but most engine builders will tell you that they should run on 10w-40. 5w just being to too thin to offer proper start-up protection (unless you live in the arctic).

Brakes are not very good. Rear arches rust from inside out. Other than that, nothing particular to worry about, just keep on top of the preventative maintenance and use some common-sense mechanical sympathy.

5w oil is perscribed by Subaru, but only in fully synthetic form, nothing wrong with it, its 0w oil (especially in classics) where they say its not recommended.

Mobil made a 5w40 for Subaru back in the 90's on Subaru's recommendation, these guys built the engine and know what it is capable of and would have tested it with all the oil types they recommend in the manual (including 5w ones )

They may well have tested the engines but that was with a view to performance & fuel economy. They also tested them when they were new - not after 10+ years & 100k of UK driving; with numerous owners, maintenance schedules, different parts, different fuels etc. I'll go with the guys who strip, inspect & rebuild the engines today, over what the guys who put them together new 10-15 years ago say. Difficult to test conclusively without a time-machine though

[tonyb1968]

TEKNOPUG said:

tonyb1968 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

Subaru prescribe 5w-40 but most engine builders will tell you that they should run on 10w-40. 5w just being to too thin to offer proper start-up protection (unless you live in the arctic).

Brakes are not very good. Rear arches rust from inside out. Other than that, nothing particular to worry about, just keep on top of the preventative maintenance and use some common-sense mechanical sympathy.

5w oil is perscribed by Subaru, but only in fully synthetic form, nothing wrong with it, its 0w oil (especially in classics) where they say its not recommended.

Mobil made a 5w40 for Subaru back in the 90's on Subaru's recommendation, these guys built the engine and know what it is capable of and would have tested it with all the oil types they recommend in the manual (including 5w ones )

They may well have tested the engines but that was with a view to performance & fuel economy. They also tested them when they were new - not after 10+ years & 100k of UK driving; with numerous owners, maintenance schedules, different parts, different fuels etc. I'll go with the guys who strip, inspect & rebuild the engines today, over what the guys who put them together new 10-15 years ago say. Difficult to test conclusively without a time-machine though

Ask an engine builder to use a micrometer and see how far out it is from the factory after 100k miles, it may shock you that it wont be, hence using a 5w wont be an issue.
Subaru ran these engines at full rpm for stupid miles, they would have had a harder life than most of the cars had, and if anything its not the cold weight you need to worry about, its the hot weight that will cause the problems.

[CaptainSlow]

I always used the Halfords Part Synth 5/30 Ford oil in my Scoobies with no issues.

[Stants]

Just gone to a 10-50 for winter running as mine slaps loads when cold (my97 rubbish piston skirt design)

Seems to have quietened it down when up to temp and runs a maybe 5° cooler on extended m way driving at 70+

Plugs aren't that hard, remove washer bottle and maybe battery if your struggling, air box and intake hose on other side, small extension bar job jobbed

If your really struggling then loosen off the engine mount on the side your doing and place a jack under the bottom of the block, and raise a little, this just tilts the engine ever so slightly but enough to get better access,

[TEKNOPUG]

tonyb1968 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

tonyb1968 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

Subaru prescribe 5w-40 but most engine builders will tell you that they should run on 10w-40. 5w just being to too thin to offer proper start-up protection (unless you live in the arctic).

Brakes are not very good. Rear arches rust from inside out. Other than that, nothing particular to worry about, just keep on top of the preventative maintenance and use some common-sense mechanical sympathy.

5w oil is perscribed by Subaru, but only in fully synthetic form, nothing wrong with it, its 0w oil (especially in classics) where they say its not recommended.

Mobil made a 5w40 for Subaru back in the 90's on Subaru's recommendation, these guys built the engine and know what it is capable of and would have tested it with all the oil types they recommend in the manual (including 5w ones )

They may well have tested the engines but that was with a view to performance & fuel economy. They also tested them when they were new - not after 10+ years & 100k of UK driving; with numerous owners, maintenance schedules, different parts, different fuels etc. I'll go with the guys who strip, inspect & rebuild the engines today, over what the guys who put them together new 10-15 years ago say. Difficult to test conclusively without a time-machine though

Ask an engine builder to use a micrometer and see how far out it is from the factory after 100k miles, it may shock you that it wont be, hence using a 5w wont be an issue.

Considering that they are rebuilding the engine after is has failed, I'd image that they see a lot that are a long way out from factory

[Konan]

texaxile said:

Just had a chat to the mechanic today and said that I'll supply the brake fluid, engine, gearbox and diff oils plus filters and he'll provide the coolant.

There's a specific 'Subaru super coolant' or some other daft name.

I'm sure somebody will know what makes it up, but since I couldn't get an exact answer last time I paid through the nose for the stuff in the branded tub.

[tonyb1968]

TEKNOPUG said:

tonyb1968 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

tonyb1968 said:

TEKNOPUG said:

Subaru prescribe 5w-40 but most engine builders will tell you that they should run on 10w-40. 5w just being to too thin to offer proper start-up protection (unless you live in the arctic).

Brakes are not very good. Rear arches rust from inside out. Other than that, nothing particular to worry about, just keep on top of the preventative maintenance and use some common-sense mechanical sympathy.

5w oil is perscribed by Subaru, but only in fully synthetic form, nothing wrong with it, its 0w oil (especially in classics) where they say its not recommended.

Mobil made a 5w40 for Subaru back in the 90's on Subaru's recommendation, these guys built the engine and know what it is capable of and would have tested it with all the oil types they recommend in the manual (including 5w ones )

They may well have tested the engines but that was with a view to performance & fuel economy. They also tested them when they were new - not after 10+ years & 100k of UK driving; with numerous owners, maintenance schedules, different parts, different fuels etc. I'll go with the guys who strip, inspect & rebuild the engines today, over what the guys who put them together new 10-15 years ago say. Difficult to test conclusively without a time-machine though

Ask an engine builder to use a micrometer and see how far out it is from the factory after 100k miles, it may shock you that it wont be, hence using a 5w wont be an issue.

Considering that they are rebuilding the engine after is has failed, I'd image that they see a lot that are a long way out from factory

What went?
Oil pump?
Bearing failure?
Water pump?
Head Gasket?

The tolerances will still be in, engines fail for all different issues, that doesn't mean its exceeded those tolerances.

[MDMA .]

Konan said:

There's a specific 'Subaru super coolant' or some other daft name.

I'm sure somebody will know what makes it up, but since I couldn't get an exact answer last time I paid through the nose for the stuff in the branded tub.

cant find it on the UK site but this is it -

http://parts.subaru.com/p/Super-Coolant-Pre-mixed/...

[vxr2010]

the coolant additive is basically bars radiator sealant or a like product like k seal

[texaxile]

I've read that shell coolant also fits the bill, but there's so much (dis)information out there it's hard to tell whether normal OAT is fine to use. Subaru say it needs to be non anime, non phosphate and non silicate. I might just go for factory coolant anyway unless any of the collective knows a suitable alternative.
I changed the alternator and ac belts today. Absolute piece of piss, done in less than 15 mins , the 2 gates belts cost £20 delivered, give or take.

[Konan]

texaxile said:

I've read that shell coolant also fits the bill, but there's so much (dis)information out there it's hard to tell whether normal OAT is fine to use. Subaru say it needs to be non anime, non phosphate and non silicate. I might just go for factory coolant anyway unless any of the collective knows a suitable alternative.

That's what I did. Figured I was spending more time reading up on it that was worth to save a few quite.

texaxile said:

I changed the alternator and ac belts today. Absolute piece of piss, done in less than 15 mins , the 2 gates belts cost £20 delivered, give or take.

You've found the one nice job to do on a car with a flat engine in the front