considering a 1999 JDM S/Tb with some issues (EJ205)
Discussion
Hi,
i'm looking to buy a 1999 JDM S/Tb auto, but the owner has been very honest with some issues, and I'm looking to get a quick second opinion. Coming from many older VTECs and Toyota 4WD I've always wanted a blown Subaru, but don't know them anywhere near as well.
I live on a small Caribbean island so parts and dealer level facilities are none existent, and I usually undertake most work myself. The issues I'm looking at are:
1. Leaky valve gasket seal: I've read a lot on this, and the nightmare head gasket issues + plug tube leaks, but this genuinely does seem to be the LH side valve cover gasket. Owner has been using heavier straight 40w Oil as we live in a tropical climate (which I will drop straight away), and is losing around a quart per month under normal use - I'll be switching to Motul 10w40 Fully Synth but am I likely to lose twice as much/see this worsen? 2 mechanics have not corrected this yet, by misdiagnosing as "rear seal"? and then mis-ordering correct seal. I've found a few videos and forum walkthoughs for the 2.5 and WRX EJ205 which say it should be do-able on newer models with engine in situ, but I've looked and it seems a horrifically small space to work in on this 1999. How hard is this for a home mechanic?
2. Cambelt is due - can this be done in situ and is it a ***** of a job to send to a mechanic, or do-able at home again?
3. Car pulls great, no smoking or other maladies, but under hard acceleration from standstill doesn't seem quite as urgent as would have thought to get going (although performance overall feels about right for a 230bhp car if its weight), kickdown is a little slow, and seems to change up 500 - 1000 rpm before the redline as well. Gearbox was v. low on oil when checked levels, might this be the cause?
4. Car is currently on standard green coolant. I've had lots of jap imports, and nearly every other one has needed red HOAT coolant - I can't get a clear answer about this EJ205 engine - what should it be?
Car is otherwise very tidy and clean for age, not messed with, and good ones are rare these days, especially on my little island. He's offering it me for substantially less than asking due to the oil leak issue, as he's had enough with it. Seller has been very straight and honest with me (he's a police sergeant), and has given me contact details of last mechanic who worked on it... pics show location of leak - at bottom of bay underneath red plug leads.
pics to follow
Thanks,
Dom
i'm looking to buy a 1999 JDM S/Tb auto, but the owner has been very honest with some issues, and I'm looking to get a quick second opinion. Coming from many older VTECs and Toyota 4WD I've always wanted a blown Subaru, but don't know them anywhere near as well.
I live on a small Caribbean island so parts and dealer level facilities are none existent, and I usually undertake most work myself. The issues I'm looking at are:
1. Leaky valve gasket seal: I've read a lot on this, and the nightmare head gasket issues + plug tube leaks, but this genuinely does seem to be the LH side valve cover gasket. Owner has been using heavier straight 40w Oil as we live in a tropical climate (which I will drop straight away), and is losing around a quart per month under normal use - I'll be switching to Motul 10w40 Fully Synth but am I likely to lose twice as much/see this worsen? 2 mechanics have not corrected this yet, by misdiagnosing as "rear seal"? and then mis-ordering correct seal. I've found a few videos and forum walkthoughs for the 2.5 and WRX EJ205 which say it should be do-able on newer models with engine in situ, but I've looked and it seems a horrifically small space to work in on this 1999. How hard is this for a home mechanic?
2. Cambelt is due - can this be done in situ and is it a ***** of a job to send to a mechanic, or do-able at home again?
3. Car pulls great, no smoking or other maladies, but under hard acceleration from standstill doesn't seem quite as urgent as would have thought to get going (although performance overall feels about right for a 230bhp car if its weight), kickdown is a little slow, and seems to change up 500 - 1000 rpm before the redline as well. Gearbox was v. low on oil when checked levels, might this be the cause?
4. Car is currently on standard green coolant. I've had lots of jap imports, and nearly every other one has needed red HOAT coolant - I can't get a clear answer about this EJ205 engine - what should it be?
Car is otherwise very tidy and clean for age, not messed with, and good ones are rare these days, especially on my little island. He's offering it me for substantially less than asking due to the oil leak issue, as he's had enough with it. Seller has been very straight and honest with me (he's a police sergeant), and has given me contact details of last mechanic who worked on it... pics show location of leak - at bottom of bay underneath red plug leads.
pics to follow
Thanks,
Dom
Edited by boma on Sunday 7th August 16:15
I wouldn't worry about hg issues, the older ej's are pretty bullet proof,
The rocker covers are a bit of a pain but can be done easily enough, need plenty of patience, may as well do the plugs if not been done for a while as they have to come out,
Biggest problems I've had is getting the correct parts, my97 is based on an ej20g but the rocker cover gaskets are totally different to what's listed, we ended up ordering 4 sets before we had correct parts,
Check the rear shocks for 'saggy butt syndrome' not sure if the my99 has self leveling suspension, but they are prone to going wonky and the rear will sit lower than the front .
Not end of the world can be swapped for normal springs & shocks
Once your used to the layout of the engine they are fairly easy to work on, Cambelt can be done in situations, you'll have to remove the radiator for a bit more access,
With regards to the coolant as long as you flush the old stuff properly a good oat type will be better than ethylene glycol based ones as I've been told the silicates eat water pump impellers over time. How ever mines had both types in over the course of its life with no ill effects,
The standard plastic radiators are crap and only last a few years before they tend to crack.
The rocker covers are a bit of a pain but can be done easily enough, need plenty of patience, may as well do the plugs if not been done for a while as they have to come out,
Biggest problems I've had is getting the correct parts, my97 is based on an ej20g but the rocker cover gaskets are totally different to what's listed, we ended up ordering 4 sets before we had correct parts,
Check the rear shocks for 'saggy butt syndrome' not sure if the my99 has self leveling suspension, but they are prone to going wonky and the rear will sit lower than the front .
Not end of the world can be swapped for normal springs & shocks
Once your used to the layout of the engine they are fairly easy to work on, Cambelt can be done in situations, you'll have to remove the radiator for a bit more access,
With regards to the coolant as long as you flush the old stuff properly a good oat type will be better than ethylene glycol based ones as I've been told the silicates eat water pump impellers over time. How ever mines had both types in over the course of its life with no ill effects,
The standard plastic radiators are crap and only last a few years before they tend to crack.
Edited by stanton_a on Sunday 7th August 17:24
Edited by stanton_a on Sunday 7th August 17:26
Thanks, some great pointers. Shocks felt a little aged, but not terrible, but will check if sel levelling. Car was on uneven ground in pic but does sit a little rear saggy. Rad will get replaced as current one was soldered 8 months back, so will switch to non silicone Coolant as well.
Reassurance on the gaskets is good, and sounds like the mechanic arent the only ones having issues getti g the correct gaskets
Ive heard the cambelt is horrible as the valves all move as soonas the belt comes off? And the 4 cams make it a bugger?
Reassurance on the gaskets is good, and sounds like the mechanic arent the only ones having issues getti g the correct gaskets
Ive heard the cambelt is horrible as the valves all move as soonas the belt comes off? And the 4 cams make it a bugger?
You can get cam locking tools, from the likes of Amazon, as your close to the states you may be able to get them from some of the major outlets there ?
I think you only need the one tool to lock out one side.
I'd say 90% of the parts are identical to the same year impreza so if your having problems locating bits have a Google of the impreza part theses a good chance it will bolt straight on.
Www.opposedforces.com is a good part locator (when it works)
I think you only need the one tool to lock out one side.
I'd say 90% of the parts are identical to the same year impreza so if your having problems locating bits have a Google of the impreza part theses a good chance it will bolt straight on.
Www.opposedforces.com is a good part locator (when it works)
thanks, will check out the cam lock tool, and that site is great
http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s10/typ...
i've checked http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1999 which is my favourite site even for various jap import sometimes, but no joy on the 2l EG205 being listed.
thanks all. Think I'm taking the plunge...
http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s10/typ...
i've checked http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1999 which is my favourite site even for various jap import sometimes, but no joy on the 2l EG205 being listed.
thanks all. Think I'm taking the plunge...
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