WRXdisc brake's uneven wear.
Discussion
Hi Scooby owner's, Can any-one tell me why the discs on my scooby have badly worn on the inside face's. The pads have only been in contact with half the disc.The other half is badly corroded,i have the car serviced every year.Do about 5,000 miles between each service,if they serviced the brakes properly they would not be in this state. Not a happy bunny with Subaru Service Centre's.
Now replaced all round with a Tarox brake's set-up.
Now replaced all round with a Tarox brake's set-up.
Fighting the pistons on WRX 4 pots appears to happen to me on a 6 to 12 month basis. I'm on stainless pistons, so they are always fine but the lips on the calliper itself get grotty really quickly. Last time I rebuilt them I used more red rubber grease than I usually would in the hope it'd discourage moisture (also found I had a tiny nick in the piston seal.
However, when they stick on I usually find the result is that the pad wears into a wedge shape (as well as one wheel getting dusty rather quickly), rather than any of the disc surface being missed.
What I have observed is, when a piston sticks because the pad then isn't being pressed in parallel, it rotates a bit in the calliper and bends the retaining pins out of shape. Combine this with general crud and corrosion and it might mean the top half of your pad isn't free to move. On two occasions, I've had to use a hacksaw blade to cut the pin in half before I can get it out with a punch!
I hate the bloody things!
I'd switch to Brembo (which aren't immune to sticky pistons either), if it wasn't for the fact I'd have to change both sets of wheels to clear them. Not a lot of rims have spokes to suit so you need sti wheels or something like rota GRAs.
Last time mine jammed, it was so stuck that I had to run the engine as I needed the servo to help me pop it!
However, when they stick on I usually find the result is that the pad wears into a wedge shape (as well as one wheel getting dusty rather quickly), rather than any of the disc surface being missed.
What I have observed is, when a piston sticks because the pad then isn't being pressed in parallel, it rotates a bit in the calliper and bends the retaining pins out of shape. Combine this with general crud and corrosion and it might mean the top half of your pad isn't free to move. On two occasions, I've had to use a hacksaw blade to cut the pin in half before I can get it out with a punch!
I hate the bloody things!
I'd switch to Brembo (which aren't immune to sticky pistons either), if it wasn't for the fact I'd have to change both sets of wheels to clear them. Not a lot of rims have spokes to suit so you need sti wheels or something like rota GRAs.
Last time mine jammed, it was so stuck that I had to run the engine as I needed the servo to help me pop it!
Edited by Konan on Sunday 15th November 12:01
ohtari said:
Mr Taxpayer said:
As well as every thing said before, 5,000 miles isn't much in a year and the rears probably won't be getting used. The front bias means you have to do some pretty heavy braking for the rears to really work.
???4 pots front, 2 pots rear...
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