Future WRX owner

Future WRX owner

Author
Discussion

JamesL91

Original Poster:

62 posts

134 months

Monday 12th October 2015
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Afternoon fellas,

Currently in the market for a black 2003-2005 WRX. I've had two blobeye STI's in the past, a sport and a BRZ so I'm a bit of a fanboy!

While I wait for the right one to come on the market (why, when I start looking, do they all disappear?!) I thought I'd post a couple of thoughts that have been swimming around my head that I fancied getting a couple of opinions on.

Has anyone gone from an STI to a WRX? The WRX I'll be purchasing, if it doesn't already, will be getting a remap (more on that later). My old STI had 343BHP. Has anyone gone from an STI to a WRX and really, REALLY regretted it? Reason I'm not going STI again is a few reasons.. mostly money. My intention to move out in the not too distant future means I can't get too carried away. I'm hoping the WRX will have enough in its court (a little more comfort, long gear ratios, less money on consumables) that I will feel I'm making a worthy sacrifice. Any thoughts? Bear in mind I do a lot of miles, so comfort is actually a factor for me.

My other thing is I would like to take it to about 280-290BHP. I know the turbo will just about make it, but I had a loud LOUD jap can on my previous Impreza and I'm totally done with all that. How much can I get away with without making it stupidly loud, and still passing emissions while getting a healthy BHP figure?

Hope those questions make sense. I just fancy chatting about getting one until one turns up! I hope it's soon..

TEKNOPUG

19,250 posts

211 months

Tuesday 13th October 2015
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Decat Up-pipe, Sports Cat downpipe, fuel pump and air filter will be needed to make the most of a remap on a TD04. You can add some port-matched headers and a Harvey Up-pipe for increased spool (reduced lag). Nothing else worth adding without changing the turbo. Should see around 280bhp.

Do the brakes (Brembo/AP etc), fit PCA springs and refresh all the bushes (shocks too if needed). Maybe fit some slightly bigger ARBs.

2.5" exhaust is fine. Keep the resonated centre section and don't go to big on the tailpipe. Prodrive back boxes are a nice compromise.

paulmoonraker

2,850 posts

169 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
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I've had a 2005 WRX PPP, 2005 STi (345bhp) and currently own a 2007 STi (355bhp). The WRX if mapped is as quick as a standard STi (in part because of the longer gears), but it doesn't feel as frantic. I personally think it won't live up to expectations if you've previously owned it's big brother.

Apart from purchase price, is there really much of a cost differential?

TEKNOPUG

19,250 posts

211 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
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paulmoonraker said:
I've had a 2005 WRX PPP, 2005 STi (345bhp) and currently own a 2007 STi (355bhp). The WRX if mapped is as quick as a standard STi (in part because of the longer gears), but it doesn't feel as frantic. I personally think it won't live up to expectations if you've previously owned it's big brother.

Apart from purchase price, is there really much of a cost differential?
There probably isn't that great a difference in consumables - although I guess if you have an STi, you may drive it harder and therefore parts wear more quickly (and fuel!). Very big difference in purchase price though - depends upon OP's budget, obviously.

The biggest difference is the 5/6 speed box. This is what makes the STi more frantic/WRX more relaxed. If the OP is doing longer journies then maybe the WRX ticks the boxes. This of course limits the power you can run; the 5-speed box being on borrowed time once you get towards 350bhp. However, if you want more than 350bhp, you should buy an STi anyway!

Choosing the right turbo (say a TD04 hybrid over an STi VF series) and minimizing lag as much as possible, would yield 320+bhp but probably be as quick (if not quicker) than an STi @ 350bhp in typical A-B driving. If you want anything quicker or more hardcore, you are much better starting with an STi, than throwing money at a WRX.

crispyshark

1,263 posts

151 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
TEKNOPUG said:
Decat Up-pipe, Sports Cat downpipe, fuel pump and air filter will be needed to make the most of a remap on a TD04. You can add some port-matched headers and a Harvey Up-pipe for increased spool (reduced lag). Nothing else worth adding without changing the turbo. Should see around 280bhp.

Do the brakes (Brembo/AP etc), fit PCA springs and refresh all the bushes (shocks too if needed). Maybe fit some slightly bigger ARBs.

2.5" exhaust is fine. Keep the resonated centre section and don't go to big on the tailpipe. Prodrive back boxes are a nice compromise.
Everything that Tekno said, seriously...he's covered it and I totally agree, might not go for the port matched headers but never say never.

What’s nice about the WRX (with some light mods and a remap) is that being a smaller turbo you are on boost that 500rpm sooner than the STI set up. Having swapped an old turbo VF34 for a VF35 (STI) I can honestly say I noticed a difference on the day to day when you need a bit of oomph about town and you are waiting until after 3k rpm. Having said that, when the turbo is on song the power increase is more than noticeable and it just keeps giving way after the point the VF34 would’ve puffed out.

With one hand it giveth, whilst the other takes away.

TEKNOPUG

19,250 posts

211 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
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crispyshark said:
Everything that Tekno said, seriously...he's covered it and I totally agree, might not go for the port matched headers but never say never.

What’s nice about the WRX (with some light mods and a remap) is that being a smaller turbo you are on boost that 500rpm sooner than the STI set up. Having swapped an old turbo VF34 for a VF35 (STI) I can honestly say I noticed a difference on the day to day when you need a bit of oomph about town and you are waiting until after 3k rpm. Having said that, when the turbo is on song the power increase is more than noticeable and it just keeps giving way after the point the VF34 would’ve puffed out.

With one hand it giveth, whilst the other takes away.
I have an MoT to get through this week and then I'll proceed as per my post. I bought some headers for £20 and will have a go at porting them myself. Nothing to lose at that price. Can't prove if they'll have any effect as all will be fitted at the same time. The theory is sound. Not interested in equal length hearders: too expensive, not needed at my power levels and you lose the classic burble. Harvey Up-pipe not essential but I'm aiming for as quick spool as possible, rather than outright power. I may then look to add a TD04 Hybrid turbo (probably an SC320), some pinks and colder plugs. Somewhere around 320bhp with even quicker spool than the stock TD04. That would be pretty much the ultimate WRX daily set up for me, give the constraints of the gearbox and ability to safely deploy the power on UK roads.

However, as I've driven 28k since the last MoT and I'm nearly at 150k on original components, it could be a race to the bottom to see which fails first; the turbo or the engine! Hence why I'm just going with basic upgrades & remap first.

crispyshark

1,263 posts

151 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
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Good luck!

Testament to the car that it's got to 150K on all the 'non-consumerable' parts!

JamesL91

Original Poster:

62 posts

134 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
Thanks guys! Sounds good. My worry with decat'ing etc. was having it be too noisy. Couple of "Noobie" mechanical questions then;

Does having the silenced/non silence affect performance?

What really creates the noise, decat'ing or the backbox that you choose?

Afterburner Raptor on my last sounded incredible, but I want to be a bit subtler this time. So I was thinking milltek. Any thoughts on that?

I'm not looking to push really any more than maybe 300BHP (even then that's a long way off, I'll only be aiming for around 250-260 in the weeks after I get the thing) so I don't think I need to start with an STI. The guy above was right though, purchase price is a big different. Blobeye STI's seem to be around 8k for a decent one now, whereas I've seen a couple of half decent although not perfect (does no one service their cars these days?!) WRX's for around 4-5k. When you're saving for a house deposit, that's quite a difference!

The BRZ was the car I had after the STI, completely different but 140BHP less obviously and I coped with that fine. I think the STI was just TOO frantic. I remember barrelling down some B roads thinking "This is far too much power for the road"

So perhaps just a love of the brand, a modest power figure and a mean looking Blob are all I need to be happy. I was tempted by Hawk's for a while, but the engine scares me to death for failures.

TEKNOPUG

19,250 posts

211 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
JamesL91 said:
Thanks guys! Sounds good. My worry with decat'ing etc. was having it be too noisy. Couple of "Noobie" mechanical questions then;

Does having the silenced/non silence affect performance?

What really creates the noise, decat'ing or the backbox that you choose?

Afterburner Raptor on my last sounded incredible, but I want to be a bit subtler this time. So I was thinking milltek. Any thoughts on that?

I'm not looking to push really any more than maybe 300BHP (even then that's a long way off, I'll only be aiming for around 250-260 in the weeks after I get the thing) so I don't think I need to start with an STI. The guy above was right though, purchase price is a big different. Blobeye STI's seem to be around 8k for a decent one now, whereas I've seen a couple of half decent although not perfect (does no one service their cars these days?!) WRX's for around 4-5k. When you're saving for a house deposit, that's quite a difference!

The BRZ was the car I had after the STI, completely different but 140BHP less obviously and I coped with that fine. I think the STI was just TOO frantic. I remember barrelling down some B roads thinking "This is far too much power for the road"

So perhaps just a love of the brand, a modest power figure and a mean looking Blob are all I need to be happy. I was tempted by Hawk's for a while, but the engine scares me to death for failures.
Removing the resonator, bore size and back box size make the main difference. Just change the backbox for a 4" single exit. Decat'ing will add a little extra volume but worth it for the power increase.

You can get a PPP car or remap from stock for 260. Remember though that every time you change something, it may need a remap. So do everything in one hit.

Do the suspension and brakes first.

Don't blow all your budget on a car. Withhold 1k to bring everything up to spec, service etc. Avoid modded cars unless you know what you are looking for.

Bugeyes are faster.

crispyshark

1,263 posts

151 months

Wednesday 14th October 2015
quotequote all
TEKNOPUG said:
JamesL91 said:
Thanks guys! Sounds good. My worry with decat'ing etc. was having it be too noisy. Couple of "Noobie" mechanical questions then;

Does having the silenced/non silence affect performance?

What really creates the noise, decat'ing or the backbox that you choose?

Afterburner Raptor on my last sounded incredible, but I want to be a bit subtler this time. So I was thinking milltek. Any thoughts on that?

I'm not looking to push really any more than maybe 300BHP (even then that's a long way off, I'll only be aiming for around 250-260 in the weeks after I get the thing) so I don't think I need to start with an STI. The guy above was right though, purchase price is a big different. Blobeye STI's seem to be around 8k for a decent one now, whereas I've seen a couple of half decent although not perfect (does no one service their cars these days?!) WRX's for around 4-5k. When you're saving for a house deposit, that's quite a difference!

The BRZ was the car I had after the STI, completely different but 140BHP less obviously and I coped with that fine. I think the STI was just TOO frantic. I remember barrelling down some B roads thinking "This is far too much power for the road"

So perhaps just a love of the brand, a modest power figure and a mean looking Blob are all I need to be happy. I was tempted by Hawk's for a while, but the engine scares me to death for failures.
Removing the resonator, bore size and back box size make the main difference. Just change the backbox for a 4" single exit. Decat'ing will add a little extra volume but worth it for the power increase.

You can get a PPP car or remap from stock for 260. Remember though that every time you change something, it may need a remap. So do everything in one hit.

Do the suspension and brakes first.

Don't blow all your budget on a car. Withhold 1k to bring everything up to spec, service etc. Avoid modded cars unless you know what you are looking for.

Bugeyes are faster.
All wise words. A PPP car will be a good starting point with a decent back box that won't make your ears bleed.

Bigger gains will be made with the 4 inch but you'll be heard from miles away.

Brakes and suspension first and then work on the rest. With PPP you're already at circa 260bhp, see how you get on, it maybe enough for you.

TEKNOPUG

19,250 posts

211 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
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crispyshark said:
Bigger gains will be made with the 4 inch but you'll be heard from miles away.
By 4", I meant the backbox tip. The Prodrive backboxes are 4" exit and are louder than stock but they aren't "loud" by any stretch of the imagination. They'll have no effect on performance.

Unless you mean exhaust diameter.....in which case 4" will be bloody loud and will lose you performance hehe

Matt106

383 posts

170 months

Thursday 15th October 2015
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TEKNOPUG said:
Decat Up-pipe, Sports Cat downpipe, fuel pump and air filter will be needed to make the most of a remap on a TD04. You can add some port-matched headers and a Harvey Up-pipe for increased spool (reduced lag). Nothing else worth adding without changing the turbo. Should see around 280bhp.

Do the brakes (Brembo/AP etc), fit PCA springs and refresh all the bushes (shocks too if needed). Maybe fit some slightly bigger ARBs.

2.5" exhaust is fine. Keep the resonated centre section and don't go to big on the tailpipe. Prodrive back boxes are a nice compromise.
The above is pretty much the spec of mine currently however I'm also running a VF34 turbo. Mapped to 280bhp with 300lb-ft it's a nice amount of power and keeps the OEM clutch working as it should!

Personally I find the Prodrive backbox setup too quiet, swapping out the centre section will give a nice tone and won't be intrusive.

Standard 4 pots are tripe! I'm currently looking to source some Brembos.

JamesL91

Original Poster:

62 posts

134 months

Friday 16th October 2015
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Prodrive plus centre section swap I think.. I like that the backboxes can be picked up cheap. Anyone know what size centre section (make and size would be even more helpful) that would fit the Prodrive box?

3 weeks into my search.. the Black Blobeye WRX remains.. elusive..

TEKNOPUG

19,250 posts

211 months

Saturday 17th October 2015
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JamesL91 said:
Prodrive plus centre section swap I think.. I like that the backboxes can be picked up cheap. Anyone know what size centre section (make and size would be even more helpful) that would fit the Prodrive box?

3 weeks into my search.. the Black Blobeye WRX remains.. elusive..
Standard system is 2.5" bore. Any aftermarket company that makes Scooby exhausts will have centre sections.