New classic owner - couple of questions
Discussion
Evening all
Last week I picked up my first subaru, an impreza wagon turbo - uk spec. It's a nice car with fairly low milage,completely standard, Fsh and being a 2001 model I'm guessing one of the last classic shape Imprezas ?
Im looking to do my 'getting to know my new car service' I do whenever I buy a new car but I have a few questions .....
I'm not sure what spark plugs to use, eurocarparts list loads, even different models from the same manufacturer what do you guys recommend for normal driving?
I presume decent quality 10/40 oil is the way to go? Although the oil was recently changed its very dark in colour, is this normal ?
Baskey
Last week I picked up my first subaru, an impreza wagon turbo - uk spec. It's a nice car with fairly low milage,completely standard, Fsh and being a 2001 model I'm guessing one of the last classic shape Imprezas ?
Im looking to do my 'getting to know my new car service' I do whenever I buy a new car but I have a few questions .....
I'm not sure what spark plugs to use, eurocarparts list loads, even different models from the same manufacturer what do you guys recommend for normal driving?
I presume decent quality 10/40 oil is the way to go? Although the oil was recently changed its very dark in colour, is this normal ?
Baskey
Sad Weevil said:
Plugs: NGK PFR6b for a standard car, oil: good quality 10w40 semi synth, gearbox and diff: 75w90 semi synth. The maf on these late cars needs changing often, some owners do it yearly.
I've heard this on here a few time recently about the MAF sensor.I ran a classic shape Impreza Turbo for over 10 years, and only had to replace it once. If you buy a second hand unit, then yes chances are it will fail. But if you but a new one, it should last.
Cheers guys, iv ordered the parts now and I will get them fitted on the weekend.
I havnt ordered the maf though but I think I probely will (mine looks origonal). I have two flat spots / slight misfires between 2-3k revs. If it's still there after I change the plugs I will change the maf. I presume I need to go for a decent make, it seems you can get them on eBay for as little as £20ish but I presume this is a false economy as decent makes are 4x as much ??
I will also get some pics up shortly, I'm just waiting for a wing mirror to turn up as the current one is smashed.
I havnt ordered the maf though but I think I probely will (mine looks origonal). I have two flat spots / slight misfires between 2-3k revs. If it's still there after I change the plugs I will change the maf. I presume I need to go for a decent make, it seems you can get them on eBay for as little as £20ish but I presume this is a false economy as decent makes are 4x as much ??
I will also get some pics up shortly, I'm just waiting for a wing mirror to turn up as the current one is smashed.
When my classic began hesitating I got the car tested by a garage using some software instead of buying a £100 part. It turned out to be the boost solenoid that was faulty and the MAF was OK. Once the solenoid was replaced it got checked again and was said to be fine, it still slightly hesitated though, but a remap sorted it out. I understand the mapping on non STI UK turbos is a bit wooly hence the remap makes a big difference.
There is a way to do the oil change that's recommended by some owners, but I'm not saying it's right! It does seem a little OTT, but I have always done mine this way. You need to fill the new oil filter up before fitting, it takes about 10 mins and just keep topping it up until no more oil goes in. Then fill the engine to the lower mark (the upper mark is for taking the oil level reading when the engine has warmed up). Then before starting the engine disconnect the crank sensor lead and turn the engine over 10 or 20 times. Reconnect it up and start as normal. Some say this is not required and some owners even go one stage further - taking the spark plugs out before cranking it over 10 or 20 times. I just remove the crank lead. Mine has run sweetly for a couple of years now. Changing the coolant also requires, it seems according to some owners, a special technique and the only thing to note really is how to fill up again without having an air lock. Do it via the small hose at the back of the tank, the hose leading toward the turbo. Use a small funnel and do it steadily until the coolant starts to fill the tank. Don't fill it all the way. Start the engine with the cap off and you'll see the gas escape, the coolant will expand (hence why you don't fill it!) and when all the gas stops then fill up the tank and put the cap back on.
Cracking cars, Subaru's but the brakes let them down (get them replaced or rebuilt).
There is a way to do the oil change that's recommended by some owners, but I'm not saying it's right! It does seem a little OTT, but I have always done mine this way. You need to fill the new oil filter up before fitting, it takes about 10 mins and just keep topping it up until no more oil goes in. Then fill the engine to the lower mark (the upper mark is for taking the oil level reading when the engine has warmed up). Then before starting the engine disconnect the crank sensor lead and turn the engine over 10 or 20 times. Reconnect it up and start as normal. Some say this is not required and some owners even go one stage further - taking the spark plugs out before cranking it over 10 or 20 times. I just remove the crank lead. Mine has run sweetly for a couple of years now. Changing the coolant also requires, it seems according to some owners, a special technique and the only thing to note really is how to fill up again without having an air lock. Do it via the small hose at the back of the tank, the hose leading toward the turbo. Use a small funnel and do it steadily until the coolant starts to fill the tank. Don't fill it all the way. Start the engine with the cap off and you'll see the gas escape, the coolant will expand (hence why you don't fill it!) and when all the gas stops then fill up the tank and put the cap back on.
Cracking cars, Subaru's but the brakes let them down (get them replaced or rebuilt).
Firstly Welcome to world of 'Scooby' ownership I'm now on my fifth Impreza another wagon as found the saloon too impractical so the wagon gives you the best of both worlds space and performance.
I always use 5w30 fully syn oil usually Castrol edge which u can pick up on e-bay far cheaper than most shops and always do my own servicing as its so easy,as for disconnecting the crank sensor I've never done this and changed the oil in all of my cars with no issues each too their own also I had two garages do an oil change neither disconnected the crank sensor!
Very reliable cars too even with 'mods' enjoy mate the flat four is very very addictive hence I keep coming back!
I always use 5w30 fully syn oil usually Castrol edge which u can pick up on e-bay far cheaper than most shops and always do my own servicing as its so easy,as for disconnecting the crank sensor I've never done this and changed the oil in all of my cars with no issues each too their own also I had two garages do an oil change neither disconnected the crank sensor!
Very reliable cars too even with 'mods' enjoy mate the flat four is very very addictive hence I keep coming back!
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