Remap - uprated full pump required?
Discussion
Evening
I am just about to get my 53 blobeye remapped at Mocom racing and they have strongly recommended uprating the fuel pump at the same time. I'm not looking for any crazy figures, just an improvement in driveability, so I was wondering what the general consensus is?
Cosworth panel filter will be going in too and it already has a Prodrive back box.
Thanks
I am just about to get my 53 blobeye remapped at Mocom racing and they have strongly recommended uprating the fuel pump at the same time. I'm not looking for any crazy figures, just an improvement in driveability, so I was wondering what the general consensus is?
Cosworth panel filter will be going in too and it already has a Prodrive back box.
Thanks
If you've not decatted it or changed any of the intercooler piping then they're likely to be the bottlenecks rather than fuelling but, for the sake of £55-85 and a twenty minute job to swap it over I'd change it for peace of mind. Most of the mappers recommend them and I'd tend to trust what someone like Andy Forrest says over a forum know it all. Given that most of these guys are solely mappers and therefore have no vested interest in selling you parts unnecessarily, I'd suggest that this tells you what you need to know. You don't want a fuel pump crapping out on you anytime you get near peak boost.
260 should be pretty straight forward. If you're planning to go any more than that then I'd do it now but you should be alright. Most OEM fuel pumps will outlast the car but fitting one yourself isn't really that tricky at all. They'll likely uncover any fuelling issues with the map anyway so take it from there and enjoy it.
Not with my mechanical skills!
Good point about the age of it though, but I think I'll leave anything to do with flammable liquids to an expert....
I might do the brake pads myself, with some kevlar pads from Godspeed in mind. Just the fact that I'm not sure if I'll do these tells you everything you need to know about my skills with a spanner!
Good point about the age of it though, but I think I'll leave anything to do with flammable liquids to an expert....
I might do the brake pads myself, with some kevlar pads from Godspeed in mind. Just the fact that I'm not sure if I'll do these tells you everything you need to know about my skills with a spanner!
OP the fuel pump really is easy to do yourself. There's a good guide on scoobynet you can follow, even I managed it. Quick tip - don't do it after you've brimmed the tank ;-).
Again with the brake pads, assuming you've still got the 4 pots on its a half hour easy job. Guide also on scoobynet to follow if you get stuck.
Again with the brake pads, assuming you've still got the 4 pots on its a half hour easy job. Guide also on scoobynet to follow if you get stuck.
OP the fuel pump really is easy to do yourself. There's a good guide on scoobynet you can follow, even I managed it. Quick tip - don't do it after you've brimmed the tank ;-).
Again with the brake pads, assuming you've still got the 4 pots on its a half hour easy job. Guide also on scoobynet to follow if you get stuck.
Again with the brake pads, assuming you've still got the 4 pots on its a half hour easy job. Guide also on scoobynet to follow if you get stuck.
Duncan at RaceDynamix seems to think the pump doesn't need replacing until the higher bhp figures but I did mine anyway. It's fairly cheap and fairly easy. I think there's a guide on Youtube too.
Be careful taking the seats out. I took a chunk out of the door shut with one of the seat mounting tabs!!
Be careful taking the seats out. I took a chunk out of the door shut with one of the seat mounting tabs!!
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