Contemplating an old impreza. need advice
Discussion
evening everyone.
the time has finally come for an upgrade and iv been leaning towards a scooby for a while.
the thing is i cover at least 150 miles a week to work and back and im 21 so im not sure if the fuel and insurance costs will cripple me. iv only been looking at the older shape imprezas, i had a brief look at insurance and the cheapest quote i've found is about £900 a year for a non turbo, otherwise im looking at £1500+, and iv heard a few people say theres just no point in getting the non turbo version.
any advice is much appreciated guys!
the time has finally come for an upgrade and iv been leaning towards a scooby for a while.
the thing is i cover at least 150 miles a week to work and back and im 21 so im not sure if the fuel and insurance costs will cripple me. iv only been looking at the older shape imprezas, i had a brief look at insurance and the cheapest quote i've found is about £900 a year for a non turbo, otherwise im looking at £1500+, and iv heard a few people say theres just no point in getting the non turbo version.
any advice is much appreciated guys!
Its not the fuel or insurance that's the problem its the general upkeep cost of them, especially if one isn't handy with a spanner. I'm not and have spent rather a lot running my classic in the last 18 months or so. Have a look at the costs in my garage if you want an idea. Some of which were unnecessary albeit (wheels/new exhaust etc) but in the main I have spent good money on good/new parts because I love the car and am keeping it long term! They are fantastic cars but go into it with your eyes open as you can (like me!) spend multiples of the purchase price once all costs are considered!
PS don't bother with a non-turbo they are still thirsty yet the performance is nothing short of woeful.
PS don't bother with a non-turbo they are still thirsty yet the performance is nothing short of woeful.
Edited by HonestIago on Thursday 22 May 11:16
ellis12345 said:
cheers, how does it compare to your clio performance wise? my mate has just bought a clio 182 and that feels a thousand times quicker than any car i've owned
The Clio is a lovely wee car, handles better than the scoob (very little roll, precise turn in etc) and is quick if you keep it on the boil and don't have any passengers! My Impreza feels a lot quicker, however much of that is probably down to how much more useable midrange torque it has. Bear in mind though a standard UK turbo is only 215bhp and has a chunk less torque than a PPP car so the difference will be less pronounced.
I've just bought one and apart from driving it home have only done about 5 miles in it, as not running properly.
Knew this when I bought it, although the 1 fault has now grown to 3 faults before I can use it as intended.
My advice is don't buy car with any kind of fault, as even though you think you'll know what it is, it might not be. So that bargain starts to creep up to the price of what a decent one would have been...without the grit in eye, petrol on hands experience.
Never mind though, I have learnt a lot and car is engineered very well regarding handling and so on. Brakes are awful, but that might be the knackered disks etc causing that of course.
Browned my pants yesterday when I found petrol dripping from the car on the drive. However, in the last work done to the car prior to me buying it there is a note in plain English saying "strong smell of petrol coming from car".
Me being me thought I knew why, and failed to notice the fuel filler neck that had foil wrapped around it, which I then blasted away jet washing it.
Hmmm.
Make sure you look up how to read codes. Mine says knock sensor is the cause of crappy running. Won't know until I pay someone for that to be changed...
There are plenty for sale to choose from, so avoid the poor ones if possible, unless you love that feeling of wishing you could turn back time, as in the song by Cher, bless her.
Knew this when I bought it, although the 1 fault has now grown to 3 faults before I can use it as intended.
My advice is don't buy car with any kind of fault, as even though you think you'll know what it is, it might not be. So that bargain starts to creep up to the price of what a decent one would have been...without the grit in eye, petrol on hands experience.
Never mind though, I have learnt a lot and car is engineered very well regarding handling and so on. Brakes are awful, but that might be the knackered disks etc causing that of course.
Browned my pants yesterday when I found petrol dripping from the car on the drive. However, in the last work done to the car prior to me buying it there is a note in plain English saying "strong smell of petrol coming from car".
Me being me thought I knew why, and failed to notice the fuel filler neck that had foil wrapped around it, which I then blasted away jet washing it.
Hmmm.
Make sure you look up how to read codes. Mine says knock sensor is the cause of crappy running. Won't know until I pay someone for that to be changed...
There are plenty for sale to choose from, so avoid the poor ones if possible, unless you love that feeling of wishing you could turn back time, as in the song by Cher, bless her.
ellis12345 said:
haha im thinking it might be best to splash out a bit more up front as i havn't got the greatest knowledge of car mechanics myself...
some of the ones i've seen on ebay do look too good to be true for the price they are fetching
Might be worth saving for a good blobeye WRX instead. Newer and arguably less fragile than the classics. some of the ones i've seen on ebay do look too good to be true for the price they are fetching
HonestIago said:
Might be worth saving for a good blobeye WRX instead. Newer and arguably less fragile than the classics.
As above. I think the cheap classics are likely to be a money pit. I have had a look at a couple for around the 2000 pound mark for a friend of mine and to say I was disappointed was an understatementI paid 1800 for a very tidy MY00 classic last year with 68K on the clock and almost complete service history (recent cam belt, new radiator etc etc). It cost me 300 in brake callipers and rear pads but that was about it apart from fuel, and was 300 to insure on a classic policy. I sold it on because I am after a classic STI now.
I see them the same as most old cars - If you get a good, well maintained, standard one that hasn't been messed with by someone called Barry you stand a fairly good chance of having a reliable car. Oh and look out for rust.
I see them the same as most old cars - If you get a good, well maintained, standard one that hasn't been messed with by someone called Barry you stand a fairly good chance of having a reliable car. Oh and look out for rust.
i think a blobeye would be a bit out of my price range. i was kind of hoping to spend no more than 2000 but it will probably end up being a bit more, as i said above i've seen a few decent looking ones sell for less than that on ebay. although i wouldnt buy one without going to have a proper look
BlimeyCharlie said:
Make sure you look up how to read codes. Mine says knock sensor is the cause of crappy running. Won't know until I pay someone for that to be changed...
You really don`t need to pay someone else to change that, its one of the easiest parts to fit to a car, 1 small bolt and a plug.HonestIago said:
Its not the fuel or insurance that's the problem its the general upkeep cost of them, especially if one isn't handy with a spanner. I'm not and have spent rather a lot running my classic in the last 18 months or so. Have a look at the costs in my garage if you want an idea.
Those are scary costs, 2k a year in servicing and repairs? Mine costs me very little other than the cambelt service which ended up being around 800 along with all the other filters etc..In the 3 or so years I have owned mine it has only needed that cambelt service, oil changes and the front calipers refurbished. Other than that just a set of discs and pads and some tyres, all stuff that would have to be done whether it was a Ferrari or a Fiesta.
Mine has been very cheap to actually run, where I have spent a fair bit of money has been trying to make it as mint as possible with paintwork and alloy refurb etc, which really was unnecessary.
Main things to look out for is rust and how it has been treated in the past.
Edited by rb5er on Monday 26th May 19:10
rb5er said:
You really don`t need to pay someone else to change that, its one of the easiest parts to fit to a car, 1 small bolt and a plug.
Hmm yes but I need a long 'thingy' to get down to the bolt, which I don't have, and it looks like it will be a pain for me, given I had the intercooler etc off a week or 2 ago and things which should be 'easy' were not. Looks like it will need a good bit of force, and don't want to bust something.I have a guy over the road who is doing it for cash, including the 'easy; single bolt on the jammed brake calliper, which is rusted on.
Just don't have the kit or the patience or time to faff about all day when someone who knows what they are doing will take 30 minutes. I've done a lot myself but have decided I've reached my limit. He'll remove caliper bolt and I'll strip it down.
To be fair, I've learnt a lot, having never had a Subaru, and much more confident for getting stuck in.
My advice is don't buy one with crappy looking brakes, or brakes that are crappy. But there are bargains out there.
rb5er said:
HonestIago said:
Its not the fuel or insurance that's the problem its the general upkeep cost of them, especially if one isn't handy with a spanner. I'm not and have spent rather a lot running my classic in the last 18 months or so. Have a look at the costs in my garage if you want an idea.
Those are scary costs, 2k a year in servicing and repairs? Mine costs me very little other than the cambelt service which ended up being around 800 along with all the other filters etc..In the 3 or so years I have owned mine it has only needed that cambelt service, oil changes and the front calipers refurbished. Other than that just a set of discs and pads and some tyres, all stuff that would have to be done whether it was a Ferrari or a Fiesta.
Mine has been very cheap to actually run, where I have spent a fair bit of money has been trying to make it as mint as possible with paintwork and alloy refurb etc, which really was unnecessary.
Main things to look out for is rust and how it has been treated in the past.
Edited by rb5er on Monday 26th May 19:10
7 services @ £170 a time
Cambelt, water pump, new radiator and exhaust £1250
All 4 brake calipers replaced, pads and discs £1,000
4 decent make tyres £390 (due again before winter)
Pads & Discs two other times £400
Starter Motor £150
Later this year will be another cambelt change and I am expecting a clutch to need replacing some time next year as the miles increase.
Nothing particularly out of the ordinary. I like to keep the car in top mechanical order and am prepared to pay good money to keep it that way.
Rear panels rust treated £300, Wheels need refurb before winter.
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