"Sport" to compliment Climbing. Martial Art? Yoga?

[glazbagun]

Have got back into my climbing this autumn after a gap of about seven months. Seven depressing months of exams beer and sedentary jobs- I can honestly say I've never felt weaker in my life. Not helped by the fact that I'm back at uni, at 28 and seem to deteriorate all of a sudden, while everyone I climb with is in their teens/early 20's and seem impervious to exhaustion. I've never really *had* to keep in shape before. I'm not liking it!

I'm sure I'll get it back- I can still climb 6As, and I know the best way to improve your climbing is to climb, but it gets a little disheartening the way I keep burning out so quickly and could never do many steep faces or really forearm-heavy stuff, so I was thinking of taking up another sport in paralell to keep things interesting & hopefully aid my return- I've never been big (which is fine for climbing) or strong and find gyms tedious, so was wondering if anyone had opinions on any popular/easy-to-find martial arts which may be of benefit to improving strength, balance and general fitness?

Or, given that my aims are more related to balance and useful strength everywhere with an eye on climbing, would a branch of Yoga be a more productive avenue to explore?

I should probably add that I'm studying watchmaking and really can't afford for my fingers to be injured- does this instantly rule out all grappling/throw-heavy branches of MA, or did I misinterpret the pictures of Judo combatants with hanfulls of splints last Olympics?

Edited by glazbagun on Sunday 3rd January 20:25

[parapaul]

For balance and strength, I'd suggest something like Tai Chi. Never tried yoga so can't comment. I can't think of anything other than climbing which will help your forearm strength much though...

[ShadownINja]

Yoga or Pilates is best - develops core strength and flexibility. Tai chi is good for breathing and calming the mind pre-climb or during a tricky section. The concept of relaxation in tai chi is a bad idea when climbing a sustained overhang as you'll just be heavier than necessary. You need body tension via core strength so you keep the hips close to the wall thus sending your weight down through your feet rather than just hanging off your arms. Tai chi is useful for developing balance plus Tai chi's concept of the body moving as one is useful for dynos and other bursts of power. [strength]

Hanging heavy dumbells off your fingertips (or pinching the handle) could be useful. Or pinch-hold a plate weight. Hold beyond the pain. [strength]

If you can mount a fingerboard in your house, that'll help immensely. Just do dead hangs. [strength]

Also learn to keep your arms straight and use your legs to push up rather than pulling up with your hands. [technique!]

And learn about flagging, rock overs and laybacking. It's little things that help petite women climb crazy routes while grunting blokes fail to get off the ground.

Here's a good video that demonstrates things nicely.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXXbfbTsuMo

Watch when he's got to pause to clip in. Pelvis close to wall so weight drives down through legs, legs are bent where necessary, arms straight so biceps don't have to be activated.

Get this DVD: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0xUOwiT25M

Edited by ShadownINja on Monday 4th January 00:59

[glazbagun]

ShadownINja said:

Also learn to keep your arms straight and use your legs to push up rather than pulling up with your hands. [technique!]

And learn about flagging, rock overs and laybacking. It's little things that help petite women climb crazy routes while grunting blokes fail to get off the ground.

Thankfully my technique was the first thing to come back to me or I think I'd still be climbing ladders, though funny you mention it- I was feeling reasonably good about myself until I taught a petite female gymnast basic climbing techniques, only to see her climb the same routes as me and beyond after a few weeks- she rarely even needs to smear- she can lift her feet usefully to head level!. Ego= bashed!

Thanks for the tips- it was things like "standing" on a single foot from a crouch to full stretch that initially made me think of Yoga; movements you just don't make in every day life that seem so simple until you have to make them a few times.

[ShadownINja]

glazbagun said:

ShadownINja said:

Also learn to keep your arms straight and use your legs to push up rather than pulling up with your hands. [technique!]

And learn about flagging, rock overs and laybacking. It's little things that help petite women climb crazy routes while grunting blokes fail to get off the ground.

Thankfully my technique was the first thing to come back to me or I think I'd still be climbing ladders, though funny you mention it- I was feeling reasonably good about myself until I taught a petite female gymnast basic climbing techniques, only to see her climb the same routes as me and beyond after a few weeks- she rarely even needs to smear- she can lift her feet usefully to head level!. Ego= bashed!

Thanks for the tips- it was things like "standing" on a single foot from a crouch to full stretch that initially made me think of Yoga; movements you just don't make in every day life that seem so simple until you have to make them a few times.

Ah, flexibility! Being able to get your knee to touch your chest without having to crunch forwards can be useful for getting a rockover sometimes. I have been known to let go of a hold, grab my foot and place it on a hold that I couldn't step up to, knowing I could rockover it or heel hook it.