Brazil

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SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Tuesday 8th February 2022
quotequote all
Thank god we can all travel again!
After ten years together my girlfriend (born in Brazil) became my wife and now here we are in her home country.
We started our trip in Rio de Janeiro, we toured the cities main attractions, Christo Redentor, (Jesus Statue) was shrouded in mist on our visit, Sugar Loaf Mountain fantastic scenery and a trip to Angra dos Reis (four hours each way by private coach) well worth the journey. Rio’s somewhat notorious reputation is no doubt justified to an extent but dont be put off, keep to the main areas and it’s a wonderfully vibrant if somewhat run down city.
Four days later we flew two hours down south to Porto Alegre and picked up a poverty spec VW something or other. Obviously Brazilian built, brand new but with so many rattles and squeaks but then again roads are truly awful here, British B roads are Andrex soft by comparison.
Anyway I digress.
Short drive to her home town, Dois Irmaos, where I met her family and we spent the next four weeks exploring the local area. The area is so lush but the Brazilians have just had their worst drought for a century. Also rather alarming to see the swathes of forests being cut down here for development and we’ve yet to visit the Amazon area.
Now we are in the coastal town of Garopaba and although I’ve travelled quite extensively the scenery around here has to be amongst the best I’ve seen..
Next stop will be Florianopolis, if there’s any interest I’m happy to keep updating and giving any advice/info and would also welcome any tips for our travel.
After Florianopolis we plan Iguazu Falls, Manus and the Amazon then on to Recife, back to Dois Irmaos before returning to Rio and flight home May 7th.

https://youtu.be/8xaNBWGIKp8

Copacabana Beach

Edited by SR on Wednesday 9th February 13:18

cml24

1,438 posts

153 months

Tuesday 8th February 2022
quotequote all
It's a great place, although you've managed to travel more than I did.

We were invited to a friends wedding about three hours from Rio, but had a 10 month daughter at the time, so really couldn't decide. (We also lived a 5 hour flight from London before we got on the 11 hour flight to ride!)

We went for it and spent 10 days there split between the wedding town and rio. So glad we did go, and having our daughter there was no trouble at all. In fact the way they treat and look after young children there ensured we had priority wherever we went!

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Thursday 10th February 2022
quotequote all
We’re child free for our travels so that makes things a lot easier.
We are now in Florianopolis and will spend the next week or so exploring the island before getting shot of the VW thing and flying to Iguazu Falls. I think it’s a Polo with a saloon body. Hugely underpowered and absolutely poverty spec, but it’s costing us peanuts to hire and petrol is cheap.
In fact Brazil is quite a bargain once you’re here.
Just fulfilled another bucket list must do and been for a tandem paraglide over the island, amazing experience and only £35 for ten minutes flying time. I did warn the other half down below to look out for any flying poo and think atone point I did come close!

https://youtu.be/S6npnl6eZ7Q. Paragliding over Florianopolis



Edited by SR on Wednesday 23 February 03:16

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Wednesday 23rd February 2022
quotequote all
We’ve now flown from Florianopolis to Iguazu Falls, a five hour flight with a transfer at São Paulo, costing us £120 each.
I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Victoria and Niagra Falls but they don’t compare to the scale of Iguazu! Despite Brazil having had its driest year for over a century the Falls were absolutely spectacular. Unfortunately we couldn’t visit the Argentinian side due to Covid restrictions.
The Brazilian side is quite commercialised whilst the other side is reportedly more natural.
One of the supposed attractions here is the Three Borders Point marking the borders of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, set in a rather Disney style park I was hoping to be able to physically cross the borders, alas the border is actually where two rivers merge and disappointingly you can see the other two three borders identical landmarks from the Brazilian side.
Next stop Manaus, the capital of the Amazon area.

https://youtu.be/H3UjtTUV1ac Iguazu Falls

Edited by SR on Wednesday 23 February 03:13

Matt p

1,044 posts

214 months

Wednesday 23rd February 2022
quotequote all
What a thoroughly wonderful read. I have visited Brazil a few times over the past few years. The food, sunshine and people are lovely.

Probably a little late now as you’re heading north and then north east, however if you find yourself back near São Paulo GR airport and fancy a trip out. I highly recommend “Nossa Senhora Aparecida” it’s on the main highway out of São José dos Campos. The Basilica is a feat of engineering and also a great place to go for a tour. A short drive from there is Campos Jordão or little Europe as the locals call it. Think of it as a slice of Austria/Switzerland but in Brazil. Take a jumper though as when I visited in November 2016 it was a little fresh even in the mountains. For a beach there’s Caraguatatuba and some wonderful sea food.

You’ve already visit Florianópolis, but if you ever return drive a little further north to Balneário Camboriú. It’s a little easier on the wallet and just as much fun. New Year 19/20 was spectacular!. Easily the best New Year’s Eve I’ve ever had. Paraná and Curitiba is very good for architecture and the museu de olheo by Oscar Neymar is worth the visit alone, along with the botanical gardens.

I’ve a friend from Recife here in the U.K., I’ll ask about places to visit/eat and report back.

Be careful in Manaus, even my friend from Curitiba spent time there for work and she said it was a little unsavoury.

Sounds like you’re both having a wonderful time!. Enjoy it, I’d love to go back when time and money allow. It’s a great country with so much to offer.





Xenobian

146 posts

32 months

Wednesday 23rd February 2022
quotequote all
Brazil is a great country. If you like wildlife then it is worth checking out the Pantanal area. Ouro Preto is a lovely town and especially if you have an interest in the history (and present) of mining. Several gold and gemstone mines nearby you can visit.

Manaus has some interesting historic buildings, such as the Opera House (unmissable). If your budget allows, an excellent jungle lodge nearby is Anavilhanas Lodge - https://en.anavilhanaslodge.com/ Lots of Amazon boat trip options in and around Manaus, too.

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Thursday 24th February 2022
quotequote all
First of all, thank you guys for your suggestions, we are now in Manaus, having flown here once again via São Paulo for £150 each. I have to say that Manaus is one of the most run down places I’ve ever visited. We did try and visit the Opera House but couldn’t go in as we hadn’t booked.
We had a local taxi driver show us all around the city, six hours, costing the princely sum of £60!
One of the highlights was an area of homes and bars floating on the Amazon, apparently 300,000 people live on these floating structures along the river, some of them ramshackle in the extreme.
Many houses along the banks are built on stilts to allow for the rise of the river during the rainy season, it’s incredible to think how much this vast river must grow in size.
We visited a native village but left feeling sorry for these indigenous people who have electricity and are brought in daily from the city to entertain us stupid tourists whilst looking very dejected.
A day trip into the jungle and an amazing waterfall and pool the next day lifted our spirits a lot though.
Next stop is a three day trip deeper into the Amazon, staying at Pousada Mamori about 70km south of Manaus by boat, £240 each for the trip and a two night stay with food included.

Edited by SR on Thursday 24th February 17:50


Edited by SR on Thursday 24th February 17:53


Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 18:29


Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 18:30

Xenobian

146 posts

32 months

Thursday 24th February 2022
quotequote all
SR said:
First of all, thank you guys for your suggestions, we are now in Manaus, having flown here once again via São Paulo for £150 each. I have to say that Manaus is one of the most run down places I’ve ever visited. We did try and visit the Opera House but couldn’t go in as we hadn’t booked.
We had a local taxi driver show us all around the city, six hours, costing the princely sum of £60!
One of the highlights was an area of homes and bars floating on the Amazon, apparently 300,000 people live on these floating structures along the river, some of them ramshackle in the extreme.
Many houses along the banks are built on stilts to allow for the rise of the river during the rainy season, it’s incredible to think how much this vast river must grow in size.
We visited a native village but left feeling sorry for these indigenous people who have electricity and are brought in daily from the city to entertain us stupid tourists whilst looking very dejected.
A day trip into the jungle and an amazing waterfall and pool the next day lifted our spirits a lot though.
Next stop is a three day trip deeper into the Amazon, staying at Pousada Mamori about 70km south of Manaus by boat, £240 each for the trip and a two night stay with food included.

Edited by SR on Thursday 24th February 17:50


Edited by SR on Thursday 24th February 17:53
A real pity about the opera house, it's really spectacular inside. Have fun in the rainforest!

mikef

5,154 posts

257 months

Thursday 24th February 2022
quotequote all
If you make it to Iguaçu, try to visit both Brazilian and Argentina sides (an hour’s taxi ride between the entrances, allowing for the border crossing). They are quite different - Brazil a shortish walk and spectacular, Argentina decent hikes and panoramic)

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Sunday 27th February 2022
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Well that was an experience!
We travelled from Manaus port across the Amazon by speedboat to the other side of the river then an hours drive in the most ancient of air cooled VW vans. The roads here are filled with potholes designed to break a car, the old van we were in turns out had no windscreen wipers and in the torrential rain made for a nerve wracking drive, not to mention uncomfortable what with the water ingress from various holes in the bodywork. Then followed an hour and a half in another speedboat down one of the Amazons tributaries, again in torrential rain with a polythene sheet to try and keep the worst of the rain off us. Travellers used to creature comforts beware!
Our pousada, (basic hotels in Brazil, as are most in the Amazon), was right on the edge of Lake Mamori about 50 miles south of Manaus as the crow or more likely vulture in these parts.
We arrived late afternoon and then went for a forest walk. Having just rained it was very slippery underfoot, grabbing a tree for balance I’d disturbed some ants and had four or five between my fingers, eff me the fu##ers can inflict the most painful burning sensation!
Morning saw us up at five to see sunrise over the lake, afternoon a trip to see river dolphins and explore the lake and rivers. There are no roads in the area, everyone and everything makes the journey by boat. Evening cayman watching and bloody knackered off to bed. Bed? It felt more like a concrete mattress.
Morning day two piranha fishing, though the four of us in a very rickety wooden and leaking canoe only caught two. Afternoon a guided tour through the depths of the jungle. I put up a drone before leaving and the vastness visible from above is staggering, (I’ll post a vid on YouTube when I get reliable internet). Our guide probably wasn’t the most knowledgeable but the tour was very informative and interesting.
We decided against the option of sleeping in the jungle that night, it had been raining so hard even the “concrete” mattress seemed more appealing.
Morning day three before our return to Manaus was a visit to a local village and an eye opener into how basically the locals live. Sorry to return to the theme but concrete mattress! Luxury!
Sorry if this post is a bit long winded but really skimming the details, it was as close I think we could get to the real Amazon and as said previously Sterling buys a lot of reads, the trip cost us £220 each!


Did you know Brazil nuts come in something resembling a coconut with ten or so nuts inside?

Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 18:32

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Sunday 27th February 2022
quotequote all


Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 18:33

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Sunday 27th February 2022
quotequote all
Matt p said:
What a thoroughly wonderful read. I have visited Brazil a few times over the past few years. The food, sunshine and people are lovely.

Probably a little late now as you’re heading north and then north east, however if you find yourself back near São Paulo GR airport and fancy a trip out. I highly recommend “Nossa Senhora Aparecida” it’s on the main highway out of São José dos Campos. The Basilica is a feat of engineering and also a great place to go for a tour. A short drive from there is Campos Jordão or little Europe as the locals call it. Think of it as a slice of Austria/Switzerland but in Brazil. Take a jumper though as when I visited in November 2016 it was a little fresh even in the mountains. For a beach there’s Caraguatatuba and some wonderful sea food.

You’ve already visit Florianópolis, but if you ever return drive a little further north to Balneário Camboriú. It’s a little easier on the wallet and just as much fun. New Year 19/20 was spectacular!. Easily the best New Year’s Eve I’ve ever had. Paraná and Curitiba is very good for architecture and the museu de olheo by Oscar Neymar is worth the visit alone, along with the botanical gardens.

I’ve a friend from Recife here in the U.K., I’ll ask about places to visit/eat and report back.

Be careful in Manaus, even my friend from Curitiba spent time there for work and she said it was a little unsavoury.

Sounds like you’re both having a wonderful time!. Enjoy it, I’d love to go back when time and money allow. It’s a great country with so much to offer.
Thanks for the tip re São Paulo, no doubt we will at some point have a connecting flight there and your suggestions look very interesting.
In Manaus now til Monday when we set off on a 30 hour ferry north up the Amazon to
Alter do Chao for a few days before flying to Recife.

Xenobian

146 posts

32 months

Sunday 27th February 2022
quotequote all
SR said:
Thanks for the tip re São Paulo, no doubt we will at some point have a connecting flight there and your suggestions look very interesting.
In Manaus now til Monday when we set off on a 30 hour ferry north up the Amazon to
Alter do Chao for a few days before flying to Recife.
Fernando de Noronha is a really beautiful island. The flights in go from Recife.

Recife also has the last remaining Zeppelin airship mast which you can visit, if such things are of interest: https://www.airships.net/blog/zeppelin-mast-recife...

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Sunday 27th February 2022
quotequote all
https://youtu.be/3Ga61VI3fMA

A short clip of our tour of the Amazon

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Thursday 3rd March 2022
quotequote all
Another one of life’s experiences!
We paid £50 each for a ferry from Manaus to Santarem, a thirty hour trip. Never again!
Turns out the ferry service has a less than good safety record and reports of food poisoning.
Most passengers sleep below the top deck in hammocks, open to the weather and boy can it rain here! We opted for a cabin but had to leave the door open as the stench from what smelt like mothballs was overwhelming and no doubt masked the other smells. It was the most hideous experience but does give a perspective of how vast the Amazon is.
We are now staying at Alter do Chao which has made the journey by ferry almost worth while, stunningly beautiful place, very un-crowded and Luke warm clear waters for swimming.
Next we’ve a flight to Recife where we will collect another hire car for three weeks so we can explore the area before once more heading south to Port Alegre.


Drone footage over Alter do Chao

https://youtu.be/WHnsbV8iaZ0

Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 18:46


Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 18:56

NathanChadwick

323 posts

47 months

Thursday 3rd March 2022
quotequote all
My last day after chilling out in Bahia.
Wife’s Brazilian, so staying with family, beach house.
Been here two weeks, pity it’s pissing down today but it’s been great. Some great memories made, and some great skies seen (posted some from this morning on Twitter - nayf_cars )
Leaving tomorrow - Salvador -> Sao Paolo -> Heathrow.

Would love to explore a bit more of the country. The lure of mango, catipury, goiaba, mango, fresh coconut water from the tree (sweeter when it’s not cold) and in freshly made acerola juice… going to miss it.
Might come for a month next time.

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Thursday 3rd March 2022
quotequote all
NathanChadwick said:
My last day after chilling out in Bahia.
Wife’s Brazilian, so staying with family, beach house.
Been here two weeks, pity it’s pissing down today but it’s been great. Some great memories made, and some great skies seen (posted some from this morning on Twitter - nayf_cars )
Leaving tomorrow - Salvador -> Sao Paolo -> Heathrow.

Would love to explore a bit more of the country. The lure of mango, catipury, goiaba, mango, fresh coconut water from the tree (sweeter when it’s not cold) and in freshly made acerola juice… going to miss it.
Might come for a month next time.
Like you, my wife is Brazilian, we are here for four months and certainly need time to visit this fantastic country.
Agree with you about fruits here, the taste is so much better fresh from the trees and prices here are so cheap!
Caipirinha is my favourite discovery here!

Edited by SR on Thursday 3rd March 19:09

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Tuesday 8th March 2022
quotequote all
We have now flown to Recife where we picked up a hire car and have driven an hour and a half south to Porto de Galhinas. Our fabulous Airbnb is right by the beautiful sandy palm fringed beach and is costing us a bargain £30 a night.
Along the beach from us is a small coral reef that at low tide reveals rock pools filled with the most brightly coloured fish and the water is literally luke warm, bliss!
Not mentioned cars here before, this is a car website after all. Half the cars here seem to be old VW Beetles,(known as Fiscas here) converted to dune buggies. There is no annual check on cars here, some of the buggies look like something from Mad Max and dubiously put together.
I’ll try and take some pics at some point but lots of cars here I’ve never seen before. We seem to have a Polo saloon, hatches are rare here. Lots of mid size crew cabs from Fiat, Ford and VW.
On another subject, big areas of Brazil are 110 volts, charging takes ages!
Lastly, non of the toilets here have sewage pipes large enough to accommodate loo paper so that goes in a bin by the bog. Rubbish is left for collection in carrier bags by the side of the road.
Porto do Galinhas.

Edited by SR on Tuesday 8th March 01:18


Edited by SR on Tuesday 8th March 01:20

SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Friday 11th March 2022
quotequote all
Another day, another beach, this time finds us in Praia dos Carneiros.
There are lots of new enclosed developments along this stretch of coast and although possibly not the real Brazil, with all its squalor are nevertheless lush paradises.
We’ve found this advertised at the equivalent of £106,000 and are making enquiries…..

https://www.vivareal.com.br/imovel/casa-3-quartos-...

Managed to crash and lose my second drone on this trip yesterday but pleasantly surprised at how quickly the insurance company has agreed to pay for a replacement, good result.


SR

Original Poster:

251 posts

211 months

Sunday 20th March 2022
quotequote all
Complete change of scenery!
We’ve spent the past two weeks on the paradise beaches in Sao Miguel dos Milagres and Praia dos Carneiros. Both south of Recife, both sheltered by what is apparently the longest coral reef after the Great Barrier Reef. Both with miles of soft sandy beaches lined with palm trees, lukewarm calm water and teeming with brightly colourful fish. In Milagres we were lucky enough to see manatees and in Carneiros we watched turtles hatching and making for the sea, both truly special to see.

https://youtu.be/BfXm16Of0tE
Turtles…

I’ve come to the conclusion Brazil is not a great driving country. The roads are atrocious, far, far worse than our battered B roads.I’m amazed I haven’t had a puncture here, potholes more like craters, poorly signposted and very low speed limits. You see very few up-market cars here, you simply wouldn’t be able to enjoy them from what I’ve seen.
We are now in Recife for four nights before flying south once again to the other half’s home town for our last five weeks here.