France/Belgium battlefield road trip

France/Belgium battlefield road trip

Author
Discussion

NowWatchThisDrive

Original Poster:

954 posts

118 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
I'm in the early stages of planning a road trip to take in the WW1 battlefields of northern France and Belgium over the course of 4/5 days with my dad in the 964. To my mind it's the perfect kind of trip for the car, and it's an idea I've toyed with for a while but never gotten around to til now.

Anyway, I realise it's a fairly common trip and there's plenty of suggestions online so not looking for others to do all my research for me! Just wondered if any PHers that have done similar have any interesting field reports or nuggets of wisdom to offer; lesser known places to visit or stop for the night, stuff to seek out or avoid that isn't immediately obvious, that kind of thing? Looking at late March, COVID etc permitting.

Cheers

frag68

273 posts

158 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
A couple of years ago, pre Covid, I took Mrs G out to Reims for her birthday, and to get a picture of the car at the old pit lane there.

On the way down, we stopped off at Thiepval to go to the memorial for the 70k plus men whose bodies were never found. There are a few war grave sites and memorials around there as well including the Ulster Guards

Its a very sobering place. There is a tour you can do, as well as museum/gift shop. Definitely worth a visit

Police State

4,195 posts

234 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
On the way back from a long trip, we stopped overnight at Arras for an easy run-in to Calais the next morning,

It is steeped in WW1 & WW2 history with some ferocious battles fought in both wars.

dundarach

5,627 posts

242 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
It's easy driving, wonderful stuff, you'll love it.

Get out and explore!





We went in 2017 and made a trip to find the Hull Pals monument as we're all Hully's


Bilkob

322 posts

149 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
You will have a FANTASTIC time! Stay in or near Ypres. Got to the Menin Gate at 8pm. Tyne Cot cemetery. Cloth Hall/Flanders Fields museum in Ypres. Hodge crater and nearby museum, the place is literally dripping in history.
Either of you into cycling? If you are, or even if you’re not, March and April see BIG pro races on 2-3 times a week. Sit in a cafe, watch the race go by, walk to another fantastic historical site, have a Trappist beer……
In fact, can I come with you…?

DaffyT4

166 posts

153 months

Friday 14th January 2022
quotequote all
I'm a FWW Battlefield Guide (or was pre-Covid). Do you have any specific interests like wanting to follow an ancestor's war or looking at specific battles or periods of the war?

The most visited sectors are the Somme battlefields around Albert and the Ypres (Ieper) Salient in Belgium. Ypres is a beautiful place to visit, lots of accomodation and restaurants and of course the Menin Gate. I would suggest a couple of nights based in Ypres and then a couple in Arras or Albert for the Somme, calling in at Vimy Ridge on the way. Albert is a bit lacking in facilities though. Peronne is a decent alternative.

Away from the Somme/Ypres there are plenty of fascinating areas to explore but a decent Guide Book is a good investment (Holts is a good 'general' book). If your FWW knowledge is a bit limited i would also recommend you put in some time doing some background reading before you go - it will massively improve what you get out out of the visit. Gary Sheffield's Short History of the FWW or Richarh Holmes's Western Front would be good.

The best museum by far is the Passchendaele 1917 museum in Zonnebeke (nr Ypres). Wellington tunnels in Arras also very interesting.

Be aware that the Thiepval memorial has been undergoing major restoration and is currently off limits - I'm not sure for how much longer.. The Cloth Hall in Ypres has also been covered in scaffolding recently.

If you have any specific requirements/questions please ask!

Backtothenorth

170 posts

100 months

Saturday 15th January 2022
quotequote all
NowWatchThisDrive said:
I'm in the early stages of planning a road trip to take in the WW1 battlefields of northern France and Belgium over the course of 4/5 days with my dad in the 964. To my mind it's the perfect kind of trip for the car, and it's an idea I've toyed with for a while but never gotten around to til now.

Anyway, I realise it's a fairly common trip and there's plenty of suggestions online so not looking for others to do all my research for me! Just wondered if any PHers that have done similar have any interesting field reports or nuggets of wisdom to offer; lesser known places to visit or stop for the night, stuff to seek out or avoid that isn't immediately obvious, that kind of thing? Looking at late March, COVID etc permitting.

Cheers
I have been to the Somme and Ypres on numerous occasions and you will have fascinating trip. If I had to pick one nugget I would suggest you book the two of you on a tour of Thiepval Wood:
http://www.sommeassociation.com/about/thiepval-woo...

I found it incredibly atmospheric. I would read up first about the battle around Thiepval. It was the epicentre of the Somme devastation and the area itself is hardly changed being largely woods and farmland.

plenty

5,026 posts

200 months

Saturday 15th January 2022
quotequote all
Every day at 8 pm there is a ceremony in Ypres town centre commemorating the fallen.

The Douaumont Ossuary in Verdun contains the bones of 130,000 identified soldiers who died on the fields.

RosscoPCole

3,518 posts

188 months

Saturday 15th January 2022
quotequote all
I think everyone should be given the opportunity to visit the WWI battlefields and cemeteries as it puts into perspective the scale of the war and the sacrifices made by the service personnel from all sides.
If you do have any relatives that were involved in WWI then do some research and discover where they were and visit appropriate sites. Major & Mrs Holts Battlefield Guides are fantastic books for anyone visiting and have lots of useful information.
Ieper is a must, as has been mentioned before. Visit both the large and small cemeteries as the are moving in different ways and the stories about their creation is often fascinating and very poignant. I still think that no matter where they are they are little islands of Britain for our fallen soldiers, sailors and aircrew in the foreign lands where they fell.
Many years ago I discovered where the grave of the man who saved my grandfather's life was and I took my parents to Belgium to say thank you.
Since then I have visited many WWI and WWII sites and cemeteries in Belgium, northern France and Normandy.
Go, enjoy, remember and reflect.

mikeiow

7,047 posts

144 months

Saturday 15th January 2022
quotequote all
plenty said:
Every day at 8 pm there is a ceremony in Ypres town centre commemorating the fallen.

The Douaumont Ossuary in Verdun contains the bones of 130,000 identified soldiers who died on the fields.
On the 8pm ceremony - get there early: it is usually VERY well attended.
If you have any relatives who might have been involved, do some research, you may find their name on the monument

Visit the "Cloth Hall" in town whilst you are in Ypres, perhaps after lunch - a very good museum, fascinating story of the rebuild & great views over the town from the rooftop on a nice day.

On cemeteries, there are a LOT of them.
Particularly liked the Canadian one at Passchendaele: very moving statue.
There was a German one at Langemark, which was equally moving in it's own way.
All manner of small ones dotted about too. Had a chat with a Belgian lad cycling around for a fortnight who was just visiting them, for his summer holiday....
Tyne Cot also worth a visit.

At one point during our trip I recall thinking the entire area was devoted to ensuring the memory of the sacrifices would never be forgotten. Not a bad thing....



RC1807

13,284 posts

182 months

Sunday 16th January 2022
quotequote all
I visted Ypres a couple of years ago in December. I found it quite a moving experience, visiting the different memorials, then going to last post in the town in the evening. It was very cold, too, which made me think of the troops at the time - poorly equipped, battling hypothermia as much as battling the enemy.

As a family we visited Verdun years ago. Astonishing to see trenches and wiring still in place from 100+ years previously.

DB4DM

1,023 posts

137 months

Sunday 16th January 2022
quotequote all
Between Menin Gate, Tyne Cot, Thiepval and Vimy Ridge, there are 173,000 names with no known grave. My great uncle is on panel 156 at Tyne Cot, shot in the head by a sniper near the Zonnebeke canal in April 1918

The Holts books are a must

The Novotel in Ypres is a good base for the Salient and Vauban's ramparts in the town are worth exploring

Peronne or Albert are good bases for the Somme

NowWatchThisDrive

Original Poster:

954 posts

118 months

Sunday 16th January 2022
quotequote all
Thanks very much for the array of excellent replies, some really useful stuff in here. I've been doing a bit more research and fleshing out an itinerary and my concern now is whether it's going to feel a bit rushed over just 5 days!

No real ancestral motivation for this trip as my family's WW1 service was entirely Navy, so really just looking to soak up as much all-round history as we can. Briefly entertained doing it in Jan or Feb as I think the harshness of winter would add a real physicality to the experience, but with so much less daylight and less time for any restrictions to have relaxed, early spring seems more sensible.

At a high level we'd be taking the Eurotunnel and currently looking at consecutive overnight stops in Arras, Amiens, Verdun and Ypres, taking in most of the things mentioned in the thread so far. One thing I'm not quite sure of is whether separate nights in Arras and Amiens are really necessary or whether we could just go straight through to Amiens in one day, especially as we could quite easily use it for an extra night in Ypres.

DB4DM

1,023 posts

137 months

Sunday 16th January 2022
quotequote all
Verdun is quite a way south, and may add 6 to 7 hours return driving, ie about 600 extra km. Viamichelin is your friend and shows Calais to Verdun as 415km

I'd also defer till May-ish to enjoy longer daylight and spring warmth with less chance of cold heavy rain in Picardy where the landscape is very open and exposed

I last went to Menin Gate in Sept 2015. Got a midnight ferry from Dover to Dunkirk, had the floodlit Gate to ourselves around 0400 then went to Tyne Cot to watch the sunrise. Back to Ypres for breakfast then out in the countryside to find the place my great uncle fell. Then back to Novotel then Menin Gate for the last post. Into Germany the following day at the start of a 42 day 10000km road trip

DaffyT4

166 posts

153 months

Sunday 16th January 2022
quotequote all
NowWatchThisDrive said:
At a high level we'd be taking the Eurotunnel and currently looking at consecutive overnight stops in Arras, Amiens, Verdun and Ypres, taking in most of the things mentioned in the thread so far. One thing I'm not quite sure of is whether separate nights in Arras and Amiens are really necessary
When I do tours we either stay in Arras or Amiens not both, and which one we use is determined by what the clients want to visit. Arras is good for the 1916 Somme and the 1917 Battle of Arras (including Vimy) plus the Battle of Loos in 1915. Amiens we tend to use for covering the 1918 Somme fighting, the German Spring Offensive and the Battle of Amiens in August 1918.

Would strongly advise against trying to include Verdun on a 5 day trip, you'll waste too much time driving. Tunnel to Ypres, 2 nights there then down to Arras for 2 nights then back to tunnel, maybe via the Aubers Ridge area (lots of German bunkers still visible). Then, if you're like most people, start planning your next trip!

Bilkob

322 posts

149 months

Sunday 16th January 2022
quotequote all
Lots of others have mentioned it, so I’m only backing them up, but the Vimy Ridge Memorial is astonishing

Nico Adie

653 posts

57 months

Monday 17th January 2022
quotequote all
Whatever you do, make sure you have merguez frites!

ecsrobin

18,150 posts

179 months

Monday 17th January 2022
quotequote all
We visited verdun by chance a few years ago, a very good museum, fort and memorial. Highly recommend.

dundarach

5,627 posts

242 months

Monday 17th January 2022
quotequote all
A few more of ours, get going, you'll really enjoy it.

We (grown ups and kids) found it very moving, there's a real sense of these men being far from home, and yet somehow, bits of England now brought here to them, if that makes sense.


Amien Station




The cemeteries are beautifully kept and really peaceful.


dundarach

5,627 posts

242 months

Monday 17th January 2022
quotequote all
A few more of ours, get going, you'll really enjoy it.

We (grown ups and kids) found it very moving, there's a real sense of these men being far from home, and yet somehow, bits of England now brought here to them, if that makes sense.


Amien Station




The cemeteries are beautifully kept and really peaceful.