Japan travelogue...lots of pictures!
Discussion
I thought I would post up some details of my recent holiday in Japan, firstly for interest's sake and secondly as a general informational guide for anyone who's considering it. I'll start off with a general overview of my trip including some selected highlight photographs (I have over 1500, so I've got loads of editing and selecting to do still!) and will finish with some general details/tips. I'll probably try to add to the photos from here. And happy to answer any questions, I've struggled with writing such a lot in one go, it's ages since I had to write an essay! 
I went for just over 2 weeks between October and November, arguably one of the most beautiful times of year to visit Japan as the maple trees are bursting into their autumn colours. I gather the weather was unseasonably warm, however it was most pleasant for the majority of my stay.
First stop- Tokyo
Arriving at Narita airport, I found my way to the hotel, eventually- Whilst everyone was terribly helpful to a clueless foreigner this did confirm my concerns about the limited English spoken in Japan!
Once at the hotel I encountered the somewhat firm Japanese attitude towards rules- Despite arriving at midday I couldn't check in until 3- I got the strong impression this was non-negotiable! So I had to stumble round local restaurants/shops like a zombie for a few hours. Tokyo is 8/9hrs ahead of London, and having left on the midday flight from LHR, then arriving in the "Morning" after a 12.5hr flight, my body clock was strongly protesting!
Having managed about an hour's sleep I met GlenMH at the hotel and headed out to see some of the bright lights of Akihabara. Tokyo is exactly what you'd expect- A 10-megawatt megacity. Akihabara's Electric City is the epicentre of the technology stores. And plenty of multi-storey sex superstores with every, and I mean every, human whim covered. Brilliant to wander round and providing plenty of fodder for the "weird Japan" photo folder!
Bright lights of Tokyo
Kabuchiko, the entertainment quarter...
Looking towards Mt. Fuji at dusk from the top of the Government building.
Hedgehogs with tits. I saw loads of these. No, I don't know either.
I spent most of my time in Tokyo wandering around soaking up the atmosphere and seeing the architecture/sights- I am a fairly regular long-distance flyer on holiday but for some reason the jetlag hit me especially hard this time so I needed to recover- Slightly disappointing given last year's adventure in Hong Kong when I arrived and was out the piss within 2hrs with no ill effects!
I stayed for 3 nights at Hotel Nihonbashi Villa. I'd thoroughly recommend it- at £37ish a night it was by far the cheapest hotel I could find, and the standard of the room/service was impeccable.
Glen was an absolute star, showing a grateful zombie the highlights of the city and helping me to avoid eating raw horse...
However, it was time to move on.
Up to the mountains- Nikko
Nikko is a small town in the mountains to the North of Tokyo. It's got an almost Swiss feel due to the looming mountains and chocolate box architecture of the train stations. The town itself isn't much to write home about, however the surrounding countryside is utterly beautiful.
Statues in the woods above Nikko
Mountains above Nikko
Pagoda
Grounds of the Imperial Palace
Ladies visiting the Imperial Palace
Autumn colours
There are numerous shrines/temples in the area- Although I gave the main one a miss since it was a Saturday and utterly mobbed by other tourists. Unfortunately being a beautiful area within a couple of hours of Tokyo has its price...
I would quite happily have stayed in Nikko for a week. There is so much beautiful countryside to explore, so many things to see and hot springs to soak in. I stayed at Nikko Park Lodge in the woods near to the town which was a relaxing gem of a hostel. Having wandered round for a few days, made friends with loads of the other residents and guests and become official firelighter I really didn't want to leave...
However, leave I had to. Another guy from there was travelling down to Kyoto so I decided to join him. On to the Shinkansen...
Kyoto and Nara- Temples akimbo!
Kyoto is a city with a very refined air, and one which I loved. The residents seemed more relaxed than in Tokyo, and it was a little less manic to travel around. The whole area is soaked in history, with lots, and lots, of temples, and also historic areas like Gion, the home to the few remaining Geisha in Japan.
I'll get a confession out of the way here- I'm not really into wandering around temples. To be honest, a lot of them look very much the same as each other. My main joy was the ornate gardens that surrounded them- Of which there is a good amount of variation!
Temple gardens
Statues
Bridge in Gion, the historic Geisha area of Kyoto
I stayed at a hostel right in the centre- Khaosan Kyoto- That, much like all of the other accommodation I saw, was spotless and more than adequate for my needs. And with a reasonable amount of corruptible foreign students.
Nara is close to Kyoto- It's the ancient capital of Japan I believe. And yes, there were more temples- But rather more divertingly thousands of deer wandering the streets. Despite my best efforts I didn't manage to capture anyone being butted!
Having had my fill of Kyoto, I moved on to Hiroshima. Kyoto station is an amazing place. Truly staggering in scale, with futuristic architecture and a slight air of Bladerunner...
Hiroshima and Miyajima
Hiroshima is a destination which has to be visited in Japan. Less a "highlight", more a place that needs to be seen. Despite it's tragic history, Hiroshima is a modern, cosmopolitan city looking to the future, with a respectful eye on the past.
On my first day in Hiroshima, I had heard that the weather was unlikely to stay good- Therefore, in 24 degree heat and bright sunshine, I caught the ferry to nearby Miyajima island. This is home to the famous "Torii" (gate) which is an abiding symbol- As well as the most photographed lump of wood you've probably ever seen...
Aside from beautiful temples and gardens, Miyajima is naturally beautiful, with several hiking routes up to the summit of the mountain on the island. Possibly one of my favourite days on holiday was spent wandering around here.
Temple on Miyajima
The next day was damp, rainy and miserable. Perfect in fact for looking around the A-Bomb Dome and nearby museum, gave the whole place a subdued and solemn air.
A-Bomb Dome- The only structure remaining in central Hiroshima after the bomb, and left standing as a powerful memorial.
Peace memorial
Swathes of paper cranes, a peace symbol left by visitors
A watch from Hiroshima, forever frozen at the time of the bomb.
Tricycle and helmet beloved by a young boy who died of terrible burns after the explosion. Initially buried with him in the back garden, his father moved him to the family grave several years later and donated the tricycle to the museum. Absolutely heartbreaking area of the museum, I'm welling up now with the thought of the stories of the children who died.
The memorial is a remarkable achievement. Genuinely brings home the horror and appalling human cost of the nuclear weapon, without being in any way judgemental. Expressions of peace in every room, and hope for the future. Sobering.
From Hiroshima, it was back up to the mountains...
Hakone
Again fairly close to Tokyo, Hakone shares much of the character of Nikko, without all of the history- Although there are a few worthwhile sights like the Hakone Checkpoint, basically a relic from the age of the Shoguns in Japan when it acted as a security measure to vet travellers coming through the area.
There is a a thoroughly enjoyable day trip "route" around the area which takes in cable cars, an incredibly tacky scenic boat and the mountain trains... Sadly when I went up the mountain it was covered in fog so I missed much of the sights.
On top of the mountain they boil eggs in the sulphurous hot waters from the still-active volcano beneath. I declined to purchase a "black egg" as they are known, however Hello Kitty appears to enjoy her eggy friend...
I stayed in a very nice Japanese guest house in the village of Sengokuhara- Right in the middle of the main sights. And with indoor and outdoor sulphur hot springs- Heaven. Fuji-Hakone Guest House: Thoroughly recommended and by far the most cost-effective place to stay in the region.
From there, sadly, it was back to Tokyo for a final night... Korean dumplings with Glen and Steph, and then back to my humble abode for the evening. I managed to fall out of the capsule en route to the airport in the morning, so had a little difficulty walking!
Sayonara!
Practicalities
I flew with Virgin into Narita airport, from what I gather there is somewhat of a cartel between Virgin and BA since the prices are virtually identical. Managed to get the flights for £546 return though, which is about the cheapest I've seen the flights for several years.
There's no need to get the Narita Express train- Whilst very plush and the quickest way into the city, it is about £25 at current exchange rates. Local trains cost about £10, and go to some of the stations the NEX doesn't...
I used a Japan Rail pass- These really are a bargain compared to the cost of individual fares. At current exchange rates the 2-week pass is around £350, however once you've covered the cost of the NEX (It covers this) and gone down to Kyoto and back you're in profit. It's surprising how useful it is in Tokyo as well as it covers the JR overground lines which cover all the important stations in the City. This piece of paper was a bit of a millstone round my neck though as I was paranoid about losing it for the duration- These are completely non-replaceable and you have to show it at every station entrance, so you can't tuck it somewhere safe!
Food and drink's not quite as scandalous as you would believe. Most restaurants do lunch sets for a very good price- Generally about £7 for a good meal. And then there are the 280yen restaurants where everything is one price (£2ish)... Having found one which did Steins of beer for this price I paused a while.
Taxis are scandalously expensive but the metro is reasonable.
I'll post more up as I remember it, feel free to ask. I am Japan's new ambassador in the UK and need to get myself back sooner rather than later, amazing country and people...
I went for just over 2 weeks between October and November, arguably one of the most beautiful times of year to visit Japan as the maple trees are bursting into their autumn colours. I gather the weather was unseasonably warm, however it was most pleasant for the majority of my stay.
First stop- Tokyo
Arriving at Narita airport, I found my way to the hotel, eventually- Whilst everyone was terribly helpful to a clueless foreigner this did confirm my concerns about the limited English spoken in Japan!
Once at the hotel I encountered the somewhat firm Japanese attitude towards rules- Despite arriving at midday I couldn't check in until 3- I got the strong impression this was non-negotiable! So I had to stumble round local restaurants/shops like a zombie for a few hours. Tokyo is 8/9hrs ahead of London, and having left on the midday flight from LHR, then arriving in the "Morning" after a 12.5hr flight, my body clock was strongly protesting!
Having managed about an hour's sleep I met GlenMH at the hotel and headed out to see some of the bright lights of Akihabara. Tokyo is exactly what you'd expect- A 10-megawatt megacity. Akihabara's Electric City is the epicentre of the technology stores. And plenty of multi-storey sex superstores with every, and I mean every, human whim covered. Brilliant to wander round and providing plenty of fodder for the "weird Japan" photo folder!
Bright lights of Tokyo
Kabuchiko, the entertainment quarter...
Looking towards Mt. Fuji at dusk from the top of the Government building.
Hedgehogs with tits. I saw loads of these. No, I don't know either.
I spent most of my time in Tokyo wandering around soaking up the atmosphere and seeing the architecture/sights- I am a fairly regular long-distance flyer on holiday but for some reason the jetlag hit me especially hard this time so I needed to recover- Slightly disappointing given last year's adventure in Hong Kong when I arrived and was out the piss within 2hrs with no ill effects!
I stayed for 3 nights at Hotel Nihonbashi Villa. I'd thoroughly recommend it- at £37ish a night it was by far the cheapest hotel I could find, and the standard of the room/service was impeccable.
Glen was an absolute star, showing a grateful zombie the highlights of the city and helping me to avoid eating raw horse...
However, it was time to move on.
Up to the mountains- Nikko
Nikko is a small town in the mountains to the North of Tokyo. It's got an almost Swiss feel due to the looming mountains and chocolate box architecture of the train stations. The town itself isn't much to write home about, however the surrounding countryside is utterly beautiful.
Statues in the woods above Nikko
Mountains above Nikko
Pagoda
Grounds of the Imperial Palace
Ladies visiting the Imperial Palace
Autumn colours
There are numerous shrines/temples in the area- Although I gave the main one a miss since it was a Saturday and utterly mobbed by other tourists. Unfortunately being a beautiful area within a couple of hours of Tokyo has its price...
I would quite happily have stayed in Nikko for a week. There is so much beautiful countryside to explore, so many things to see and hot springs to soak in. I stayed at Nikko Park Lodge in the woods near to the town which was a relaxing gem of a hostel. Having wandered round for a few days, made friends with loads of the other residents and guests and become official firelighter I really didn't want to leave...
However, leave I had to. Another guy from there was travelling down to Kyoto so I decided to join him. On to the Shinkansen...
Kyoto and Nara- Temples akimbo!
Kyoto is a city with a very refined air, and one which I loved. The residents seemed more relaxed than in Tokyo, and it was a little less manic to travel around. The whole area is soaked in history, with lots, and lots, of temples, and also historic areas like Gion, the home to the few remaining Geisha in Japan.
I'll get a confession out of the way here- I'm not really into wandering around temples. To be honest, a lot of them look very much the same as each other. My main joy was the ornate gardens that surrounded them- Of which there is a good amount of variation!
Temple gardens
Statues
Bridge in Gion, the historic Geisha area of Kyoto
I stayed at a hostel right in the centre- Khaosan Kyoto- That, much like all of the other accommodation I saw, was spotless and more than adequate for my needs. And with a reasonable amount of corruptible foreign students.
Nara is close to Kyoto- It's the ancient capital of Japan I believe. And yes, there were more temples- But rather more divertingly thousands of deer wandering the streets. Despite my best efforts I didn't manage to capture anyone being butted!
Having had my fill of Kyoto, I moved on to Hiroshima. Kyoto station is an amazing place. Truly staggering in scale, with futuristic architecture and a slight air of Bladerunner...
Hiroshima and Miyajima
Hiroshima is a destination which has to be visited in Japan. Less a "highlight", more a place that needs to be seen. Despite it's tragic history, Hiroshima is a modern, cosmopolitan city looking to the future, with a respectful eye on the past.
On my first day in Hiroshima, I had heard that the weather was unlikely to stay good- Therefore, in 24 degree heat and bright sunshine, I caught the ferry to nearby Miyajima island. This is home to the famous "Torii" (gate) which is an abiding symbol- As well as the most photographed lump of wood you've probably ever seen...
Aside from beautiful temples and gardens, Miyajima is naturally beautiful, with several hiking routes up to the summit of the mountain on the island. Possibly one of my favourite days on holiday was spent wandering around here.
Temple on Miyajima
The next day was damp, rainy and miserable. Perfect in fact for looking around the A-Bomb Dome and nearby museum, gave the whole place a subdued and solemn air.
A-Bomb Dome- The only structure remaining in central Hiroshima after the bomb, and left standing as a powerful memorial.
Peace memorial
Swathes of paper cranes, a peace symbol left by visitors
A watch from Hiroshima, forever frozen at the time of the bomb.
Tricycle and helmet beloved by a young boy who died of terrible burns after the explosion. Initially buried with him in the back garden, his father moved him to the family grave several years later and donated the tricycle to the museum. Absolutely heartbreaking area of the museum, I'm welling up now with the thought of the stories of the children who died.
The memorial is a remarkable achievement. Genuinely brings home the horror and appalling human cost of the nuclear weapon, without being in any way judgemental. Expressions of peace in every room, and hope for the future. Sobering.
From Hiroshima, it was back up to the mountains...
Hakone
Again fairly close to Tokyo, Hakone shares much of the character of Nikko, without all of the history- Although there are a few worthwhile sights like the Hakone Checkpoint, basically a relic from the age of the Shoguns in Japan when it acted as a security measure to vet travellers coming through the area.
There is a a thoroughly enjoyable day trip "route" around the area which takes in cable cars, an incredibly tacky scenic boat and the mountain trains... Sadly when I went up the mountain it was covered in fog so I missed much of the sights.
On top of the mountain they boil eggs in the sulphurous hot waters from the still-active volcano beneath. I declined to purchase a "black egg" as they are known, however Hello Kitty appears to enjoy her eggy friend...
I stayed in a very nice Japanese guest house in the village of Sengokuhara- Right in the middle of the main sights. And with indoor and outdoor sulphur hot springs- Heaven. Fuji-Hakone Guest House: Thoroughly recommended and by far the most cost-effective place to stay in the region.
From there, sadly, it was back to Tokyo for a final night... Korean dumplings with Glen and Steph, and then back to my humble abode for the evening. I managed to fall out of the capsule en route to the airport in the morning, so had a little difficulty walking!
Sayonara!
Practicalities
I flew with Virgin into Narita airport, from what I gather there is somewhat of a cartel between Virgin and BA since the prices are virtually identical. Managed to get the flights for £546 return though, which is about the cheapest I've seen the flights for several years.
There's no need to get the Narita Express train- Whilst very plush and the quickest way into the city, it is about £25 at current exchange rates. Local trains cost about £10, and go to some of the stations the NEX doesn't...
I used a Japan Rail pass- These really are a bargain compared to the cost of individual fares. At current exchange rates the 2-week pass is around £350, however once you've covered the cost of the NEX (It covers this) and gone down to Kyoto and back you're in profit. It's surprising how useful it is in Tokyo as well as it covers the JR overground lines which cover all the important stations in the City. This piece of paper was a bit of a millstone round my neck though as I was paranoid about losing it for the duration- These are completely non-replaceable and you have to show it at every station entrance, so you can't tuck it somewhere safe!
Food and drink's not quite as scandalous as you would believe. Most restaurants do lunch sets for a very good price- Generally about £7 for a good meal. And then there are the 280yen restaurants where everything is one price (£2ish)... Having found one which did Steins of beer for this price I paused a while.
Taxis are scandalously expensive but the metro is reasonable.
I'll post more up as I remember it, feel free to ask. I am Japan's new ambassador in the UK and need to get myself back sooner rather than later, amazing country and people...
Great write up and it brings back the memories; I went to Japan on my own in 2007 after years of wanting to go there. Nothing quite prepares you for the first night you spend in Tokyo; the sights and sounds are amazing! I also visited Akita in the north (very scenic), Osaka (very busy/industrial) and Ishigaki, a small (domesitc) tourist island way down my Taiwan. If you think the language barrier in Tokyo was alarming (I personally didn't) you should trying being on a tiny island where you're the only westerner and absolutely no-one spoke English. Apart from a 9 year old girl who the hotelier had to get to translate for us 
I remember it being not too expensive back then (but by no means cheap); but the overground transit loop was by far the best thing about Tokyo; I used to spend ages on it just going around and around the city.
I remember it being not too expensive back then (but by no means cheap); but the overground transit loop was by far the best thing about Tokyo; I used to spend ages on it just going around and around the city.
pleased you enjoyed it!Nice write-up. I go there quite often, and I'll be heading out next Monday for the week (work). I love the place, everyone is so polite, everything is clean, on time and works.
The Virgin flight does leave you with time to kill before checking in to a hotel (most seem to enforce the 3pm check-in thing rigidly). The best thing is to get a shower/cleanup at the airport - there is a place you can pay to use in the terminal. Then spend a few hours being bewildered at the sights and how many people seem to be everywhere
Most of my time is spent around the Yokohama area and SW towards Fuji-san. I'd love to do a driving trip around the South of the island and possibly visit some of the other islands - maybe one day.
The Virgin flight does leave you with time to kill before checking in to a hotel (most seem to enforce the 3pm check-in thing rigidly). The best thing is to get a shower/cleanup at the airport - there is a place you can pay to use in the terminal. Then spend a few hours being bewildered at the sights and how many people seem to be everywhere
Most of my time is spent around the Yokohama area and SW towards Fuji-san. I'd love to do a driving trip around the South of the island and possibly visit some of the other islands - maybe one day.
Glad you all enjoyed the write-up, I have enjoyed sifting through the photos and will try to find some more to pop up- Unfortunately for much of my trip the lighting was terrible since it was overcast, so quite a few are a bit dull!
The cabin was actually a capsule hotel... I simply had to stay in one! This was actually part of Hotel Nihonbashi Villa, where I stayed in a "conventional" room the first time in Tokyo. Absolute bargain, capsule was about £16 a night... And surprisingly comfy/cosy. However the steps in and out required somewhat of a knack, ergo tumbling to the ground when trying to exit it in the morning and then struggling to walk to the station. Leg still hurts a bit...
Definitely learn as much Japanese if you can, I pick up languages fairly well so managed to learn a reasonable amount in the month before I left however the Japanese really appreciate you speaking their language and it gets you a long way!
Definitely going back some day- Still so much to see and do.
The cabin was actually a capsule hotel... I simply had to stay in one! This was actually part of Hotel Nihonbashi Villa, where I stayed in a "conventional" room the first time in Tokyo. Absolute bargain, capsule was about £16 a night... And surprisingly comfy/cosy. However the steps in and out required somewhat of a knack, ergo tumbling to the ground when trying to exit it in the morning
and then struggling to walk to the station. Leg still hurts a bit...Definitely learn as much Japanese if you can, I pick up languages fairly well so managed to learn a reasonable amount in the month before I left however the Japanese really appreciate you speaking their language and it gets you a long way!
Definitely going back some day- Still so much to see and do.
Capsule hotel, cool!
I'd love to go over there sometime. Probably along the lines of your trip, spend some time in Tokyo, go rural with the mountains and springs, and visit Hiroshima.
Something I would like to add in if funds allowed would be going further west and/or north to explore, and of course find nuts Jap metal to watch drifting!
I'd love to go over there sometime. Probably along the lines of your trip, spend some time in Tokyo, go rural with the mountains and springs, and visit Hiroshima.
Something I would like to add in if funds allowed would be going further west and/or north to explore, and of course find nuts Jap metal to watch drifting!
Nice write-up, Japan is a wonderful place. I was in Kobe last week on business but did manage a day trip to Kyoto to see temples/shrines a plenty and very tranquil gardens.
Took a few (iphone) pics, not best quality so as this is a motoring site thought this might be of interest, snapped as I came out of my hotel on Sunday morning, made me smile after seeing nothing but Japanese cars for several days;
Took a few (iphone) pics, not best quality so as this is a motoring site thought this might be of interest, snapped as I came out of my hotel on Sunday morning, made me smile after seeing nothing but Japanese cars for several days;
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