Puppy training
Discussion
Looks like we may well be getting a puppy next week. It's a male rescue pup - found wandering last week, taken to Police then to kennels and has not been claimed. Saw it and the mrs has fallen in love with it. If it hasnt been claimed by Tuesday, we get first refusal (pending home visit etc etc). I have always wanted a dog, but never had time nor space for one. Now, working shifts, we have the time at home, and some hasty alterations will give me the space.
My only challenge is this - I dont have the first clue on how to train it. I have heard of 'clickers' and been told they are effective. I have also been told i will need a crate, which i already have. I know the pup responds to its name and is toilet trained, but the kennel only think it is 10-12 wks old and isnt chipped.
How do i go about training the pup so that it doesn't end up like my brothers supposed 'gundog' that wont retrieve, or return when called and does what it likes. any links / recommendations / advice please.
My only challenge is this - I dont have the first clue on how to train it. I have heard of 'clickers' and been told they are effective. I have also been told i will need a crate, which i already have. I know the pup responds to its name and is toilet trained, but the kennel only think it is 10-12 wks old and isnt chipped.
How do i go about training the pup so that it doesn't end up like my brothers supposed 'gundog' that wont retrieve, or return when called and does what it likes. any links / recommendations / advice please.
Take it to local puppy classes and take it from there - they should attend between 12 and 20 weeks old so you need to start as soon as the first round of vaccinations have taken place.
Ours never really responded to clicker training. Hard work and especially patience is required, and you can teach an older dog new tricks - ours is 3 now and we spend 15 minutes a day either learning something new or practising existing skills
Ours never really responded to clicker training. Hard work and especially patience is required, and you can teach an older dog new tricks - ours is 3 now and we spend 15 minutes a day either learning something new or practising existing skills
We are near Peterbourough, Cambs. I intend to look at training classes. Everything is kind of happening quickly. We dont want to build our hopes up that the pup is still there next week - clearly someone is missing it, but havent reported it / dont care. On the other hand, I know it will get a good home with us, and both the wife and I have (yes i am sad) fallen in love with the little thing already. We therefore dont want to waste any time with the rescue team once it is allowed to be released. If things work out, he's up for re-homing on tuesday, and we can get a home visit wednesday, so i can have him home thursday just in time for me an the wife to be on holiday for a fortnight. Then i can look at kennel, classes, etc. Vets already quoted for jabs/chip, so covered that aspect.
Your vet will often be a good start for recommending a good puppy class and that will be a good starting point. My puppy class was run by a vet nurse / behaviourist. The earlier you can start with training the easier you'll find it as you won't have to undo bad habits!
With regard to crating, this is quite a personal preference. As many people are for it, as who are against it.
Good luck & don't forget to post pics of your new arrival!
With regard to crating, this is quite a personal preference. As many people are for it, as who are against it.
Good luck & don't forget to post pics of your new arrival!
I would also suggest to get yourself along to a book shop/library and acquire some books on puppy training so you can hit the ground running. Personally I believe in the pack mentality and that there needs to be an order in your household with the dog at the bottom - a dog which believes he is the Alpha male can lead to a variety of problems, as they will essentially be making (or trying to make) all the decisions?
What breed of dog is it - this will make a big difference as to how easy to train it and motivate it - a food orientated dog is easier in one way and training can be based around the reward system, although some don't subscribe to the bribery route!
ETA: Be a little wary when it comes to you and your OH being on hols for 2 weeks, if you both return to work which creates a big upset in routine this might unsettle him. Personally I would get him used to being left alone for shortish periods from early on, a dog with separation anxiety is quite a problem to overcome.
What breed of dog is it - this will make a big difference as to how easy to train it and motivate it - a food orientated dog is easier in one way and training can be based around the reward system, although some don't subscribe to the bribery route!
ETA: Be a little wary when it comes to you and your OH being on hols for 2 weeks, if you both return to work which creates a big upset in routine this might unsettle him. Personally I would get him used to being left alone for shortish periods from early on, a dog with separation anxiety is quite a problem to overcome.
Edited by geeteeaye on Friday 4th March 12:03
Edited by geeteeaye on Friday 4th March 12:03
Just hoping it all pans out well. For us Tuesday cant get here quick enough now. Had to phone the kennels just to check it hadnt been claimed yet! Sat looking out the window trying to work out where i can move things for a garden kennel! They tell me its staying indoors due to how young it is, its fine with their cats and Rottwieler in the house, responds to the name they have given it (it didnt have one) and is child-friendly with their grandkids - ticking all the right boxes for me. They have kept it in a crate overnight since Tueday, and its been good as gold, which makes me think its probaby been crated since taken from mum.
Edited to add - not sure of the breed - looks possibly like a cross - maybe a lab/collie or lab/spaniel, but then again im no expert.
Edited again to add - we're off work, but here, there and everywhere on holiday. We are going away for a week, but fortunately the place we are going is dog-friendly. With our shifts its very unlikely he will ever be left more than 3-4hrs without someone at home.
Edited to add - not sure of the breed - looks possibly like a cross - maybe a lab/collie or lab/spaniel, but then again im no expert.
Edited again to add - we're off work, but here, there and everywhere on holiday. We are going away for a week, but fortunately the place we are going is dog-friendly. With our shifts its very unlikely he will ever be left more than 3-4hrs without someone at home.
Edited by broken biscuit on Friday 4th March 12:05
1. Go visit a puppy training class before taking your dog along. I say this as I am aware of all too many "problem" dogs who are a problem because they got attacked by a dog running amok at a puppy class.... They then become nervous aggressive.
2. Get hold of some books and read a lot.
3. Training takes patience, and there are a variety of views as to how to do this - you need to decide which you feel is best - IMHO some training will always need to be adapted to suit the dog's personality i.e. a dog not food driven won't be recalling for a treat....
4. Do you have a long line? If not, this can be useful for recall training.
5. Train the dog from the minute you get him. Ensure you can take food/toys away from him when you wish, and put your hands in his bowl etc whilst he is eating now (put some treats in there now and again etc) - again depends upon personality.
6. Sit and down training and stay training can all be done for a minute or two each session but as the pup is so young, don't do this too much each day.
Enjoy!
ETA - don't hit him if he does wrong, don't rub his nose in pee/poo if he does it.
2. Get hold of some books and read a lot.
3. Training takes patience, and there are a variety of views as to how to do this - you need to decide which you feel is best - IMHO some training will always need to be adapted to suit the dog's personality i.e. a dog not food driven won't be recalling for a treat....
4. Do you have a long line? If not, this can be useful for recall training.
5. Train the dog from the minute you get him. Ensure you can take food/toys away from him when you wish, and put your hands in his bowl etc whilst he is eating now (put some treats in there now and again etc) - again depends upon personality.
6. Sit and down training and stay training can all be done for a minute or two each session but as the pup is so young, don't do this too much each day.
Enjoy!
ETA - don't hit him if he does wrong, don't rub his nose in pee/poo if he does it.
I think this will be a steep but enjoyable learning curve for us, should it all go to plan. I think I am more excited than the wife, and we haven't even mentioned it to our 3 yr old, in case it doesnt work out. He will dote on the dog. Our two cats will take a bit of adjusting to it, but they are both quite bolshy and i think will soon knock the pup into line.
I intend to get reading as soon as we get the go ahead from the rescue centre. I have already started researching with the vets, pricing up kennels etc, but am holding off until hes home.
I intend to get reading as soon as we get the go ahead from the rescue centre. I have already started researching with the vets, pricing up kennels etc, but am holding off until hes home.
I only took my dogs to training classes as one part of their socialisation. I demanded (with treats and affection) their full attention. Other dogs did go a bit mad but as long as mine knew that by my side was where they are safe and petted that and before/after class mixing was all I wanted out of the classes. Basic obedience was dealt with at home before classes so they had a rough idea of what was expected of them before entering all the excitment, smells and fun of classes.
They love playing with other dogs but being Dobermans I had to make sure that they knew my commands, both spoken and by sign, were what they needed to pay attention to.
It doesen't always work, I've a beautifully behaved male dobe but his "sister" does try to do her own thing on the first call but by the second knows "it's serious".
I have never used punishment only ever reward and as such my two can hear a packet of biscuits open at a distance well beyond the human ear but (and I admit this one suprises me to this day) if Mr 13th leaves a packet of biscuits on the side table well within their reach they wont touch it even if it is left overnight........ the contents may however be covered in drool! which I think is the dogs
So classes are brilliant and a must do but give your pup a chance and let him know the basics before he is overwelmed...
Good luck and there is nothing better than a well behaved doggy IMO
They love playing with other dogs but being Dobermans I had to make sure that they knew my commands, both spoken and by sign, were what they needed to pay attention to.
It doesen't always work, I've a beautifully behaved male dobe but his "sister" does try to do her own thing on the first call but by the second knows "it's serious".
I have never used punishment only ever reward and as such my two can hear a packet of biscuits open at a distance well beyond the human ear but (and I admit this one suprises me to this day) if Mr 13th leaves a packet of biscuits on the side table well within their reach they wont touch it even if it is left overnight........ the contents may however be covered in drool! which I think is the dogs
So classes are brilliant and a must do but give your pup a chance and let him know the basics before he is overwelmed...
Good luck and there is nothing better than a well behaved doggy IMO
A well run puppy class should not overwhelm your puppy and should be restricted to 'puppies' and not contain older dogs with behaviour problems. A good trainer would not have too many in a class, they should run a set programme which gradually builds both your own and your puppy's confidence in the environment and with the other puppies, they should be knowlegable enough to answer lots of other questions around behaviour and training provide handouts with notes and exercises for you to refer to each week.
They should also let you observe a session in another class before comitting but you would want to take your dog to the entire programme when you start.
My little wirehair was so timid it was stopping him learning, so the trainer suggested we leave the first programme, do some work to build his confidence and start afresh with her next term. A bad trainer would have snatched the money and run just to keep their numbers up!
I took mine to http://www.puppyschool.co.uk
I can't vouch personally for every trainer but mine was excellent and was a qualified VN / Behaviour Specialist and was recommended by the vet and many other people locally.
They should also let you observe a session in another class before comitting but you would want to take your dog to the entire programme when you start.
My little wirehair was so timid it was stopping him learning, so the trainer suggested we leave the first programme, do some work to build his confidence and start afresh with her next term. A bad trainer would have snatched the money and run just to keep their numbers up!
I took mine to http://www.puppyschool.co.uk
I can't vouch personally for every trainer but mine was excellent and was a qualified VN / Behaviour Specialist and was recommended by the vet and many other people locally.
Pup will need fully vaccinating before you take him anywhere. Nasty diseases are rife 
Good books: The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey and the Idiots Guide to Dog Training by Pamela Dennison. Both are a good, easy read and use modern, up to date training methods
Training classes: Have a look at the APDT website for a local trainer. At least you will know that they have attained a certain standard and again use modern, up to date methods. Run away from anyone who bleats on about pack theory, alpha, dominance, etc. They are stuck in a time warp.
Good luck - and don't forget to post loads of pics
Good books: The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey and the Idiots Guide to Dog Training by Pamela Dennison. Both are a good, easy read and use modern, up to date training methods
Training classes: Have a look at the APDT website for a local trainer. At least you will know that they have attained a certain standard and again use modern, up to date methods. Run away from anyone who bleats on about pack theory, alpha, dominance, etc. They are stuck in a time warp.
Good luck - and don't forget to post loads of pics
I agree with both P M and Mrs G in an ideal world and I can only give my comments on personal experience which is no doubt not as extensive.
But in reality finding a puppy class in any area that is calm and collected for a puppy has never happened for me. My first dog training classes were in a church hall. IMO nothing in an hour can be achieved with so many dogs weeing with excitment on their first meeting with other dogs, or so it seemed. My boy was 9 weeks but had his training and cuddles at home and met other friends dogs that I knew were fully vaccinated but still he was overwhelmed (IMO) He's sadly long gone at 14 years old (RIP Saxon)
Both my pups, now 5 and 4, went to Dr Roger Mugford's school and I can't fault the classes except for my honest opinion that they were fantastic to reinforce the training the pups had played and enjoyed at home but with added distractions.
p.s. if anyone has the Clicker Training Kit recommended by Dr R Mugford? that's my Zeus on the box
But in reality finding a puppy class in any area that is calm and collected for a puppy has never happened for me. My first dog training classes were in a church hall. IMO nothing in an hour can be achieved with so many dogs weeing with excitment on their first meeting with other dogs, or so it seemed. My boy was 9 weeks but had his training and cuddles at home and met other friends dogs that I knew were fully vaccinated but still he was overwhelmed (IMO) He's sadly long gone at 14 years old (RIP Saxon)
Both my pups, now 5 and 4, went to Dr Roger Mugford's school and I can't fault the classes except for my honest opinion that they were fantastic to reinforce the training the pups had played and enjoyed at home but with added distractions.
p.s. if anyone has the Clicker Training Kit recommended by Dr R Mugford? that's my Zeus on the box
Agree with you about the puppy training classes - in fact any training classes. Finding a good one seems nigh on impossible! Too many dogs, too crowded, no-one keeping an eye on everyone to make sure they are safe and not being bullied 
Marching round yanking and shouting Too many of those classes still around.
Marching round yanking and shouting Too many of those classes still around.Mrs Grumpy said:
Agree with you about the puppy training classes - in fact any training classes. Finding a good one seems nigh on impossible! Too many dogs, too crowded, no-one keeping an eye on everyone to make sure they are safe and not being bullied Marching round yanking and shouting Too many of those classes still around.
And don't even get me on to letting pups or dogs join half way through the course/any course!!! that is SO wrong IMO...... Marching round yanking and shouting Too many of those classes still around.People do drop out but they paid in full at the start so there is NO reason to take on extra dogs to disturb what the others have already learnt........Oh and then having change overs where the old dogs dealing with agression problems leave the training area just as the new pups are coming in!!! WTH were they thinking? EACH week!
Susie gets off her
Edited by 13th on Friday 4th March 18:48
13th said:
Oh and then having change overs where the old dogs dealing with agression problems leave the training area just as the new pups are coming in!!! WTH were they thinking? EACH week!
I have one of those dogs. I am well used to managing him now and very used to planting mysef between him and others, plus requesting others to move out of my way so I can safely get him out without upsetting him and others.THIS sort of thing are where good trainers are worth their weight in gold.
Mrs Grumpy said:
I have one of those dogs. I am well used to managing him now and very used to planting mysef between him and others, plus requesting others to move out of my way so I can safely get him out without upsetting him and others.THIS sort of thing are where good trainers are worth their weight in gold.
Just my thoughts and certainly not meant to diminish the work anyone does with any dog for them to be able to enjoy their life to the full.
My girl is a handful, she has to be watched and monitored at all times in public; she doesn't know fear (I hope) but she can get spooked luckily she doesn't run away as she knows to come to me.
(I walk on private land and never have her off the lead in a public area)
eta Watch this space for the thread "my dog has scarpered!!!) Heaven forbid!! ;-)
Edited by 13th on Friday 4th March 19:12
Oh absolutely! My aim is to never put my dog in a position where he feels the need to defend himself. If he does, then I have failed him. Sometimes though, some mong takes no notice and strolls over regardless. Taff is a very handsome, fluffy boy, so people seem to think he would like them to cuddle him. Nope!
Agree with the above, my class has a 15 min changeover window and a separate waiting area for the second class so younger dogs aren't distressed by the older ones waiting.
They have a max of 10 dogs with two trainers in the class and any longer than an hour is too much for a young pup who is being asked to concentrate for most of that hour. No dog is allowed to start the class without bringing the vaccination record.
They have a max of 10 dogs with two trainers in the class and any longer than an hour is too much for a young pup who is being asked to concentrate for most of that hour. No dog is allowed to start the class without bringing the vaccination record.
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