How do you break up fighting dogs?
Discussion
I was woken up half an hour ago by Sarah in tears, having not been able to break up two of our dogs fighting.
They normally all get along fine. These two have fought now on maybe four occasions since we got Beaux a year ago. The other occasions have usually been over food, getting too close. This time it was over a game of tug with an old rag. They got a bit too 'excited' then it kicked off. What upset her this time is that apparently she couldn't stop them using all of her decibels and strength. She says eventually she managed to pull Wilson far enough away to break it up.
They're a Dobe x Viz and a Lab x Brittney Terrier if of any use.
Does anyone have any ideas of what to do if it kicks off again? It's not something I've experienced in my years of dog ownership.
They normally all get along fine. These two have fought now on maybe four occasions since we got Beaux a year ago. The other occasions have usually been over food, getting too close. This time it was over a game of tug with an old rag. They got a bit too 'excited' then it kicked off. What upset her this time is that apparently she couldn't stop them using all of her decibels and strength. She says eventually she managed to pull Wilson far enough away to break it up.
They're a Dobe x Viz and a Lab x Brittney Terrier if of any use.
Does anyone have any ideas of what to do if it kicks off again? It's not something I've experienced in my years of dog ownership.
Jasandjules said:
lift up
If you're going to physically intervene, this is a must. The theory is something like, if you pull one of them backwards towards you and they are properly latched on to the other dog, you will tear their teeth out of the other dog with the obvious result. If you lift, they are far more likely to release.You need to be pretty confident, and physically able, to take that step. Confident includes confident that the dog(s) won't turn.
Have you tried corrector spray? Whilst I do think that some dogs will eventually get accustomed to it, if they're not used to it, the shock factor may be enough to stop them, at least temporarily, whence they might then respond to voice commands. Worth a try I'd say.
Jasandjules said:
I've had to intervene in other dog fights before now, I go in hard and fast and basically grab the aggressor by the scruff and lift up and backwards then I turn and put my body between the other dog and them. Not sure it's the best option but it has worked for me
This for me too....My JRT got bashed up by a staffie a few weeks back, one minute they were chasing balls, the next minute the staffie has my JRT pinned to the floor by the throat.
My JRT was screaming, and it was not nice hearing that, the owner of the staffie, a middle aged woman was panicking big time.
I grabbed the staffie by the collar and tried to part them, but the staffie would not let go. I decided the best thing to do was the finger up the bum trick!
I was going to put my finger up the staffies bum, but I only touched the staffies bum and she let go.
2 minutes later they are playing together again!
We came to the conclusion that the staffie was telling my dog 'thats my ball, and leave it alone!'
Not a mark on my dogs neck.
My JRT was screaming, and it was not nice hearing that, the owner of the staffie, a middle aged woman was panicking big time.
I grabbed the staffie by the collar and tried to part them, but the staffie would not let go. I decided the best thing to do was the finger up the bum trick!
I was going to put my finger up the staffies bum, but I only touched the staffies bum and she let go.
2 minutes later they are playing together again!
We came to the conclusion that the staffie was telling my dog 'thats my ball, and leave it alone!'
Not a mark on my dogs neck.
Last time two of ours kicked off they were deep inside their kennel, and unusual for them they were serious, there was blood flying. All I could do was grab a tail and haul one out of the kennel by it, none too gently in case he spun round and took a piece out of me in panic/anger. I was afraid if I got right inside they might turn on me.
The wife had already tried squirting the hose hard one them and poking with a broom handle. That was the most serious altercation I've seen them have, and there are 8 of the buggers in the yard so they usually get on quite well, one happy family.
The wife had already tried squirting the hose hard one them and poking with a broom handle. That was the most serious altercation I've seen them have, and there are 8 of the buggers in the yard so they usually get on quite well, one happy family.
If it looks like a serious injury to the weaker dog's about to happen you lift the other up by the neck and choke it. That's assuming it's wearing a collar or you can slip a leash around it's neck. The collar needs to be forwards, right under it's chin. It'll release it's bite in order to breath.
Both of our dogs are off to visit Mr Vet this afternoon and shall come back a few ounces lighter than they went with.
Hopefully they will then stop tearing lumps out of each other every other day.
Should make for an interesting week having two grumpy Coneheads wandering around the house for the rest of the week.
Hopefully they will then stop tearing lumps out of each other every other day.
Should make for an interesting week having two grumpy Coneheads wandering around the house for the rest of the week.
Adenauer said:
Both of our dogs are off to visit Mr Vet this afternoon and shall come back a few ounces lighter than they went with.
Hopefully they will then stop tearing lumps out of each other every other day.
Should make for an interesting week having two grumpy Coneheads wandering around the house for the rest of the week.
Male or female?Hopefully they will then stop tearing lumps out of each other every other day.
Should make for an interesting week having two grumpy Coneheads wandering around the house for the rest of the week.
It is generally thought that in fighing males it is better to only neuter the 'submissive' dog, esp if that dog is trying to push its luck at any point and keep the more dominant male entire. I assume however this has already been discussed etc (hope so as probably a bit late now!)
bexVN said:
Male or female?
It is generally thought that in fighing males it is better to only neuter the 'submissive' dog, esp if that dog is trying to push its luck at any point and keep the more dominant male entire. I assume however this has already been discussed etc (hope so as probably a bit late now!)
Both male, Bex.It is generally thought that in fighing males it is better to only neuter the 'submissive' dog, esp if that dog is trying to push its luck at any point and keep the more dominant male entire. I assume however this has already been discussed etc (hope so as probably a bit late now!)
Rottie cross is now 10 months and the Alsatian cross is 8 months. Both lovely, both trying to be dominant, both double hard bds.
So we thought it best to get them done at the same time.
Fingers crossed it'll help, because they are getting pretty difficult to pull apart when they do go for it. They have 105 minutes left of having knackers
Adenauer said:
bexVN said:
Male or female?
It is generally thought that in fighing males it is better to only neuter the 'submissive' dog, esp if that dog is trying to push its luck at any point and keep the more dominant male entire. I assume however this has already been discussed etc (hope so as probably a bit late now!)
Both male, Bex.It is generally thought that in fighing males it is better to only neuter the 'submissive' dog, esp if that dog is trying to push its luck at any point and keep the more dominant male entire. I assume however this has already been discussed etc (hope so as probably a bit late now!)
Rottie cross is now 10 months and the Alsatian cross is 8 months. Both lovely, both trying to be dominant, both double hard bds.
So we thought it best to get them done at the same time.
Fingers crossed it'll help, because they are getting pretty difficult to pull apart when they do go for it. They have 105 minutes left of having knackers
This may be useful to be aware of (From the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors), so may be worth follow up with behaviourist if you haven't already.
Castration may be beneficial in:
• Aggression between two entire male dogs that live together: castration of one
or possibly both of the dogs can potentially help to reduce tension between them but
ONLY if done alongside BEHAVIOUR MODIFICATION, and ONLY after the dogs have
been assessed carefully by a qualified behaviourist before castration is considered
Edited by bexVN on Monday 23 January 12:50
Chris Type R said:
In South Africa the accepted wisdom was to insert a finger into the anus of the aggressor.
Never had any call or reason to try this though.
I saw footage of a person doing that to a Staffie. The dog kept on fighting.Never had any call or reason to try this though.
With most fights injuries are minor if non existent. Normal dogs will know when to call it a day as being pack animals they know they can't function/hunt etc if they're all injured.
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