Drainage replacement costs?
Discussion
The main drain from our house currently runs through the back garden, along the length of a neighbours garden and out into an adjoining road. The reason for this is apparently because when our house was built, it was in the gardens of other properties and it was the easiest thing to do.
Since then, more houses have been built and it has become a close of around 20 properties - There is now also a main drain down the length of the road.
Our drains seem to have a persistent blocking problem so we are considering re-laying them. We have 2 options:
a) Follow the current run, re-laying a new drain alongside the current one then simply divert it from one to the other.
b) Lay a new drain along a much shorter course to the main road - However this would need a connection to the main drain.
Questions are:
1) How much do water companies charge to make a drain connection?
2) I presume laying a new drain is as simple as it sounds, simply dig a big trench and lay the pipes in at the correct levels?
3) How are modern drainage pipes supplies? Long straight sections or on a big reel?
4) How much should we expect to pay to rent a mini digger in the Midlands?
Thanks.
Since then, more houses have been built and it has become a close of around 20 properties - There is now also a main drain down the length of the road.
Our drains seem to have a persistent blocking problem so we are considering re-laying them. We have 2 options:
a) Follow the current run, re-laying a new drain alongside the current one then simply divert it from one to the other.
b) Lay a new drain along a much shorter course to the main road - However this would need a connection to the main drain.
Questions are:
1) How much do water companies charge to make a drain connection?
2) I presume laying a new drain is as simple as it sounds, simply dig a big trench and lay the pipes in at the correct levels?
3) How are modern drainage pipes supplies? Long straight sections or on a big reel?
4) How much should we expect to pay to rent a mini digger in the Midlands?
Thanks.
1) In the road? A lot!
2) Pretty much staightforward. Too steep a fall and the "solids" can get left behind. Too shallow and they can get blocked. 1:40 is the norm but can be down to 1:70
3) 3m and 6m lengths.
4) £100 for a day from Jewsons.
Don't forget drains come under building regs and will need to be inspected before you back fill.
2) Pretty much staightforward. Too steep a fall and the "solids" can get left behind. Too shallow and they can get blocked. 1:40 is the norm but can be down to 1:70
3) 3m and 6m lengths.
4) £100 for a day from Jewsons.
Don't forget drains come under building regs and will need to be inspected before you back fill.
If the old drains are clay, chances are the new plastic can be laid at a much shallower 1:80 fall.
6" plastic is daft money - DO NOT use Travis Perkins.
Shop around like crazy if you're DIY-ing it or supplying the bits.
Ebay job lots have saved me a fortune in stuff like this.
Try and keep the number of manholes/direction changes to a minimum as well - that's where a lot of the money goes.
You'll need just the right width bucket on the digger too, or you'll be spending a lot on pea gravel to fill an over-wide trench - non-jagged gravel is used to sit in the bottom of the trenches and haunch over the new pipes. And in any event, whatever amount of gravel you think you'll need, double it.
It may work out cheaper to get groundworkers in with their own digger, rather than you having a go with a hired digger. It'll be much quicker, and definitely cheaper once you take into account the damaged garden wall and the wifes car you sideswipe with the bucket when you pull the wrong levers
6" plastic is daft money - DO NOT use Travis Perkins.
Shop around like crazy if you're DIY-ing it or supplying the bits.
Ebay job lots have saved me a fortune in stuff like this.
Try and keep the number of manholes/direction changes to a minimum as well - that's where a lot of the money goes.
You'll need just the right width bucket on the digger too, or you'll be spending a lot on pea gravel to fill an over-wide trench - non-jagged gravel is used to sit in the bottom of the trenches and haunch over the new pipes. And in any event, whatever amount of gravel you think you'll need, double it.
It may work out cheaper to get groundworkers in with their own digger, rather than you having a go with a hired digger. It'll be much quicker, and definitely cheaper once you take into account the damaged garden wall and the wifes car you sideswipe with the bucket when you pull the wrong levers
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