Wall Fixing Question
Discussion
I am building a wooden workbench in my garage. On two of the sides I will be screwing some 2"x4" onto the garage walls, which are what term as breeze blocks but maybe thermal blocks. If it helps, the garage is part of the house so the internal walls are the same as any other cavity wall in the house, just without the plaster, house was built 8 years ago.
What I am struggling with is what plug to use. Just returned from Homebase and they have some 'Molly' wall fixings for thermal brick, (they have a thread on them), but the screw that comes with it is not long enough, due to the 2x4.
My thoughts are:
countersink the 2x4 so that the screen that comes with the Molly fixings will be long enough, but worried that I might loose some strength in the wood.
buy longer screws but seems a bit of a waste.
Is there another suitable fixing I should use? Perhaps use fixings that are not as strong but put more of them in??
Any ideas?
What I am struggling with is what plug to use. Just returned from Homebase and they have some 'Molly' wall fixings for thermal brick, (they have a thread on them), but the screw that comes with it is not long enough, due to the 2x4.
My thoughts are:
countersink the 2x4 so that the screen that comes with the Molly fixings will be long enough, but worried that I might loose some strength in the wood.
buy longer screws but seems a bit of a waste.
Is there another suitable fixing I should use? Perhaps use fixings that are not as strong but put more of them in??
Any ideas?
LaserTam said:
countersink the 2x4 so that the screen that comes with the Molly fixings will be long enough, but worried that I might loose some strength in the wood.
This is what I'd do. Are you running the batons horizontally across the walls? If you're worried about strength what about screwing a couple of uprights that reach the floor to the horizontals, then screwing the whole lot to the wall?
Reload said:
LaserTam said:
countersink the 2x4 so that the screen that comes with the Molly fixings will be long enough, but worried that I might loose some strength in the wood.
This is what I'd do. Are you running the batons horizontally across the walls? If you're worried about strength what about screwing a couple of uprights that reach the floor to the horizontals, then screwing the whole lot to the wall?
Frame Fixers
Suitable for fixing door frames, aluminium replacement, soft and hardwood window frames and fencing posts. Minimum hole depth into masonry - 145mm. Maximum thickness of timber to be fixed - 85mm.
Use these. I've recently been fixing bits of timber all over my house and these frame fixers are dead easy to use. Position the wood, drill stright through into the wall, then knowck one of these in and tighten.
Holds like a dream.
And if you're still worried, put some grabfill gloop on the wood so it glues to the wall as well.
Only way that lot's coming off is with half a breeze block attached to it
Suitable for fixing door frames, aluminium replacement, soft and hardwood window frames and fencing posts. Minimum hole depth into masonry - 145mm. Maximum thickness of timber to be fixed - 85mm.
Use these. I've recently been fixing bits of timber all over my house and these frame fixers are dead easy to use. Position the wood, drill stright through into the wall, then knowck one of these in and tighten.
Holds like a dream.
And if you're still worried, put some grabfill gloop on the wood so it glues to the wall as well.
Only way that lot's coming off is with half a breeze block attached to it

Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



All good DIY stores should stock them.