Garden help, would like to replace plants with a fruit tree.
Discussion
Hi guys after a bit of garden advice. I've got this area with a couple of plants in it that are not very nice. They grow like weeds, hard to maintain and are ugly. The tree in the middle is the one with the purple pipe-flowers that grows really quickly. I don't know what the other plants are.
I'd like to replace them with a fruit tree or something prettier and less maintenance.
Here is a photo of the area. The house is typical two storey place which shades the yard quite a bit but this area will get some reasonable sun in the afternoons and in the morning at the peak of summer.
Thanks for your help!
I'd like to replace them with a fruit tree or something prettier and less maintenance.
Here is a photo of the area. The house is typical two storey place which shades the yard quite a bit but this area will get some reasonable sun in the afternoons and in the morning at the peak of summer.
Thanks for your help!
In your position I'd go to a good garden centre or nursery, find an expert and ask them for advice. You can also see the stock and read the labels about care, size and so on.
You'll also have to decide what kind of fruit you like! I suspect that all fruit trees are going to need a bit of pruning now and then to keep the crop up.
NB: If you go for an apple tree, you can choose from dessert or cooking apples, early, mid or late season fruiting, and equally importantly, size. Apple trees (and most other fruit trees I think) are grafted onto a rootstock. The root part controls the size of the tree and the top part controls the variety of apple. Hence you can get the same variety of apple in different size trees depending on rootstock. You can also train them, eg 'espalier' where you train them flat against a wall - handy in small areas. There's also a variety called Ballerina which doesn't have side branches - it grows straight up, so you could possibly have 3-4 different trees in the space of one normal one.
You'll also have to decide what kind of fruit you like! I suspect that all fruit trees are going to need a bit of pruning now and then to keep the crop up.
NB: If you go for an apple tree, you can choose from dessert or cooking apples, early, mid or late season fruiting, and equally importantly, size. Apple trees (and most other fruit trees I think) are grafted onto a rootstock. The root part controls the size of the tree and the top part controls the variety of apple. Hence you can get the same variety of apple in different size trees depending on rootstock. You can also train them, eg 'espalier' where you train them flat against a wall - handy in small areas. There's also a variety called Ballerina which doesn't have side branches - it grows straight up, so you could possibly have 3-4 different trees in the space of one normal one.
Edited by Simpo Two on Sunday 28th March 23:41
If you do go for apple you may need more than one as most need at least one other for pollination (to get a good crop), some need two. Do your neighbhours have any apple trees?
The current method of tree planting (RHS) is to dig a wide hole rather than deep. I support new trees with a stake at 45 degrees and a single tie. The theory is the roots are held firm and the trunk gets stronger earlier as it is allowed to sway.
The current method of tree planting (RHS) is to dig a wide hole rather than deep. I support new trees with a stake at 45 degrees and a single tie. The theory is the roots are held firm and the trunk gets stronger earlier as it is allowed to sway.
Some varieties of tree self-pollinate, but it's defo a question to ask.
zac510 said:
Do you know what the plants in that location are already?
It's too small to be much use but top right could be a Forsythia and bottom right a variegated holly (Ilex sp).Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 29th March 11:28
Simpo Two said:
zac510 said:
Do you know what the plants in that location are already?
It's too small to be much use but top right could be a Forsythia and bottom right a variegated holly (Ilex sp).Then there looks to be some sort of Leylandii on the left of the picture.
The holly is slow-growing and evergreen, so it won't turn into a bunch of dead sticks in winter. They don't mind shade either, so it's probably happy there.
The ones that will give you grief sooner rather than later are the Leylandii and Buddleia - both grow fast and it doesn't look like you have much room.
It's tempting to choose fast-growing plants to fill spaces but they don't know when to stop... IMHO it's best to plan for how you want the place to look in a few years time, rather than instantly.
As before, go to a good plant place - see them all for real, ask questions, decide. Much easier than the internet!
The ones that will give you grief sooner rather than later are the Leylandii and Buddleia - both grow fast and it doesn't look like you have much room.
It's tempting to choose fast-growing plants to fill spaces but they don't know when to stop... IMHO it's best to plan for how you want the place to look in a few years time, rather than instantly.
As before, go to a good plant place - see them all for real, ask questions, decide. Much easier than the internet!
The Buddleia is an easy plant to keep as you just prune it hard to 18 inches every March. This keeps it in bounds and it will flower well too. The Forsythia, Buddleia and Euonymous (the other plant)are common garden plants and so a fruit tree would be a good replacement. One thing to remember is the rootstock as this has a bearing on size. If choosing an Apple look for something on an M27 or M26 rootstock to keep them small and at all costs avoid Bramleys seedling which gets huge. For good results go for a Discovery, Katie or Ellison's Orange Apple or perhaps a Conference Pear. Pollination is worth bearing in mind so do see if anybody else has any local trees and then undersow with a wildflower seed mix.
Agree with Forsythia (showing yellow flowers), and buddleia behind. But I think the "holly" might be a euonymous - if the leaves aren't spikey. Like holly, it will take tyhe shade and is very hardy. It can be butchered down to a more manageable size, or moved to the shaded side. Take off the plain green stuff at the top, otherwise it will overpower the variegated (multi-coloured) bit below.
Not sure what the sticky thing to the left is, but I'd go for the "butcher it right back to 12" and see if it is good enough to come back" approach.
As Simpo says, plan ahead, and go to the big garden centre/nursery for advice. Fruit trees tend to need quite a bit of attention to flourish. A book like Dr Hessayon's Fruit Expert is probably worth a fiver even at this research stage.
Not sure what the sticky thing to the left is, but I'd go for the "butcher it right back to 12" and see if it is good enough to come back" approach.
As Simpo says, plan ahead, and go to the big garden centre/nursery for advice. Fruit trees tend to need quite a bit of attention to flourish. A book like Dr Hessayon's Fruit Expert is probably worth a fiver even at this research stage.
I'd go for a Victoria Plum, they are self-fertile and give blossom as well as fruit. Plums are not cheap in the shops usually and don't travel well, Victorias are luvverly 
with a thin skin which travels from branch to mouth in about 2 secs usually without mishap as opposed to the tough skinned shop bought ones.
If you have a choice get it on St. Julien A rootstock whih will restrict the size it will grow to to about 8-10 feet, there's also Pixy rootstock which will stop it at about 6-8 feet. Buy from a nursery rather than garden centre if you can, they will probably be cheaper and the person selling them might actually know what they are talking about. Garden centre labels all say the same thing - plant in unobtainable moist but well-draining loam in a position in full or partial sun. They are best planted as bare rooted between leaf fall and christmas as a 4-6 foot tall whip. Potted ones are ok, though would have been purchased from nurseries as these whips in the winter and potted up by the garden centre, often with some significant root trimmage to fit the pot.
with a thin skin which travels from branch to mouth in about 2 secs usually without mishap as opposed to the tough skinned shop bought ones.If you have a choice get it on St. Julien A rootstock whih will restrict the size it will grow to to about 8-10 feet, there's also Pixy rootstock which will stop it at about 6-8 feet. Buy from a nursery rather than garden centre if you can, they will probably be cheaper and the person selling them might actually know what they are talking about. Garden centre labels all say the same thing - plant in unobtainable moist but well-draining loam in a position in full or partial sun. They are best planted as bare rooted between leaf fall and christmas as a 4-6 foot tall whip. Potted ones are ok, though would have been purchased from nurseries as these whips in the winter and potted up by the garden centre, often with some significant root trimmage to fit the pot.
Yes, I wondered about Euonymus as well - hard to tell at that size!
racing green said:
Pollination is worth bearing in mind so do see if anybody else has any local trees and then undersow with a wildflower seed mix.
How do wild flowers help with pollination - is that because they attract bees, or is it instead of grass for the shady area?racing green said:
Pollination is worth bearing in mind so do see if anybody else has any local trees and then undersow with a wildflower seed mix.
How do wild flowers help with pollination - is that because they attract bees, or is it instead of grass for the shady area?A few alternatives for the space - Fig, Cob nut, Rhubarb, Autumn Raspberries, Gooseberries, Mulberry, Asparagus?
racing green said:
Wild flowers instead of grass, attracting wildlife, ease of maintenance - any or all! Agree on Victoria plum on pixy or st julien to keep small and if you need to prune it only do it in Spring, never winter.
I have an idea that stone fruit only gorw really well in the West - is that true?racing green said:
A few alternatives for the space - Fig, Cob nut, Rhubarb, Autumn Raspberries, Gooseberries, Mulberry, Asparagus?
To add my 4p:Fig - likes full sun, poor well-drained soil (ie like Turkey!)
Raspberries - birds can eat them - be ready use nets or make a cage.
Gooseberries - bloody prickly
Mulberry - delicious, but I hear trees can take 10 years to fruit.
zac510 said:
do you guys think I could get two fruit trees in there....
No. I've just been outside and measured my Victoria plum tree, it's 10ft high and the crown is 16ft across. If you plant two, they will just compete for the limited sunlight and rootspace, better to have one happy tree than two that are falling out all the time.zac510 said:
do you guys think I could get two fruit trees in there....
No. I've just been outside and measured my Victoria plum tree, it's 10ft high and the crown is 16ft across. If you plant two, they will just compete for the limited sunlight and rootspace, better to have one happy tree than two that are falling out all the time.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff