If it's broken, leave it
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Discussion

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

91,012 posts

287 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
For years the motorised valve in my heating system had been partly stuck, meaning that hot water circulated through the upstairs radiators when the HW was on but the CH off. I simply dealt with it by closing the affected radiators.

So when I decided to get a larger HW tank fitted, it seemed obvious to get the faulty valve changed too.

However, one benefit I hadn't stopped to identify is that the faulty valve gave me a hot towel rail in the bathroom at all times of year, and hence also a nice warm towel.

Now in the mornings the towel rail is stone cold and the towel is slightly damp from the day before; most depressing.

I called the plumber and asked if the little lever on the side of the valve could be used to help anything - but it seems this is a manual override and will reset every time the system fires up.

As the weather warms up, my towels will stay colder for longer.

Arse.

Ricky_M

6,618 posts

241 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
You may be able to fit an electric element to your existing towel rail. Will have to alter the pipework slightly and have it hooked up to the mains.

Or you could have it piped into the Hot Water side of the zone valve, but it will be cold when the cylinder isn't calling for heat. Not too sure on the regs about doing this either.

Deva Link

26,934 posts

267 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
Keep your towels on top of the hot water tank. wink

B17NNS

18,506 posts

269 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
As above, fit an element.

Toasty warm towels all year round smile

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/99279/Plumbing/Towel...

robinhood21

30,993 posts

254 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
...or just use more towels and rotate.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

91,012 posts

287 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
Thanks guys - the electric element idea seems to be out (unless there's a smaller design) as there's only 1" between the bottom of the valve and the floor, or 4" between radiator and floor. It also seems such a clunky, costly way of achieving what was done so easily before by a busted valve spin

I'd quite like to stick a screwdriver into the new valve... Ferg, can I sabotage it? Or connect it via a timeclock so it's partly disabled?

OldSkoolRS

7,075 posts

201 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
It is possible to buy an electric element to heat a towel radiator (probably will require the existing radiator to be changed if it's just a standard white radiator though). Of course you'll also need a power supply to the radiator too, which is more work, cost and hassle.

EDIT: I typed this two hours ago and didn't hit submit...looks like I'm not the only one to suggest this. smile

Edited by OldSkoolRS on Wednesday 24th March 21:23

ChrisRS

1,787 posts

239 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
Cant you just re-fit the old valve?

Deva Link

26,934 posts

267 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
I simply dealt with it by closing the affected radiators.

Leave the central heating selected to "on" and turn off the radiators. smile

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

91,012 posts

287 months

Wednesday 24th March 2010
quotequote all
ChrisRS said:
Cant you just re-fit the old valve?
The plumber has binned it. That's why I'm quite interested in ways to break the new one! nuts

robinhood21

30,993 posts

254 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Am not sure on how the motor and valve are connected but, if it's on to a square shaft, then filing down the closing edges to stop fully closing should have the desired effect.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

91,012 posts

287 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
This is the culprit:



Open to ideas!

I don't know whether the old one was slightly jammed or completely broken, but keeping the towelrail warm was brilliant. I also miss the creaking of CH pipes which acted as a gentle alarm clock!

If I disconnected it from the mains, thus kiling it completely, would that do achieve the desired result or make a bigger problem?

Mr Obertshaw

2,185 posts

252 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Man up and use a cold towel like everyone else. smile

Living in a house full of girls I don't have this issue as all the radiators are on full no matter what time of the year it is.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

91,012 posts

287 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Mr Obertshaw said:
Living in a house full of girls I don't have this issue as all the radiators are on full no matter what time of the year it is.
Will you swap my motorised valve for your houseful of girls?





Then again, the valve may be easier to live with...

Bill

57,058 posts

277 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
This is the culprit:



Open to ideas!

I don't know whether the old one was slightly jammed or completely broken, but keeping the towelrail warm was brilliant. I also miss the creaking of CH pipes which acted as a gentle alarm clock!

If I disconnected it from the mains, thus kiling it completely, would that do achieve the desired result or make a bigger problem?
They tend to seize if you leave them turned off anyway. I just run the CH for 20 minutes in the morning with all other rads turned off. It means I get a nice toasty towel and the CH valves don't get knackered.

.:ian:.

2,752 posts

225 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Simpo Two said:
This is the culprit:



Open to ideas!

I don't know whether the old one was slightly jammed or completely broken, but keeping the towelrail warm was brilliant. I also miss the creaking of CH pipes which acted as a gentle alarm clock!

If I disconnected it from the mains, thus kiling it completely, would that do achieve the desired result or make a bigger problem?
see the metal lever sticking out, push that up and hook it into the wider section at the top of the slot. This will keep the valve open smile

hairyben

8,516 posts

205 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Re-plumb the towell heater as a bypass (uncontrolled loop; always on with the boiler whether HW or heating is active)

Better for the boiler too; think of it like a turbo timer, always giving the boiler somewhere to push excess heat to when the valves close.

Ricky_M

6,618 posts

241 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
Well guessing you can't plumb it into the DHW side of the valve as it look like you only have an inch of pipe between the valve and cylinder.

Do you have a gate valve on the CH pipe work? If so, leave the CH on and throttle back the gate valve, should give the same effect as a partially open three port valve.

Ricky_M

6,618 posts

241 months

Thursday 25th March 2010
quotequote all
.:ian:. said:
Simpo Two said:
This is the culprit:



Open to ideas!

I don't know whether the old one was slightly jammed or completely broken, but keeping the towelrail warm was brilliant. I also miss the creaking of CH pipes which acted as a gentle alarm clock!

If I disconnected it from the mains, thus kiling it completely, would that do achieve the desired result or make a bigger problem?
see the metal lever sticking out, push that up and hook it into the wider section at the top of the slot. This will keep the valve open smile
It will return to its normal position once its operated.

Simpo Two

Original Poster:

91,012 posts

287 months

Friday 26th March 2010
quotequote all
Well, lots of ideas there folks but none of them quite viable... how about if I push the lever into the 'up' position and then disconnect the mains supply so it can't (presumably) jump back? Would that give me the same effect as the old broken/jammed valve?