Installing GU10 lights - mounting into loftspace
Discussion
Yep, clear the insulation around the fitting. You also need fire rated downlighters now to preserve the fire rating of the ceiling. The fitting will also require a clearance from any joists.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89902/Lighting-Lamps...
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89902/Lighting-Lamps...
Gary.
If the cloakroom constains a shower you should use a light fitting of IP54 or IP65. You can get away with a standard fitting in some instances within a bigger bathroom but for a smallish cloakroom you'd need to look at IP54 or IP65.
As there is no habbitable space above the room, there is no need to use a fire rated product. A free space of at least 50mm should be provided around the fitting in the loft in order to prevent it from over-heating. So that you can do this and maintain continuity of insulation, you need to either use a metal box of make a box from plasterboard.
A common misconception is that the metal boxes make the fitting fire rated - that is not the case. If you decide on a fire rated fitting, make sure you buy one that is.
The other advantage of a fire rated fitting is that they tend to be draft free thanks to the metal "can" on the rear.
Fire rated fittings also need clearance to the rear to prevent them from overheating.
- Phil
If the cloakroom constains a shower you should use a light fitting of IP54 or IP65. You can get away with a standard fitting in some instances within a bigger bathroom but for a smallish cloakroom you'd need to look at IP54 or IP65.
As there is no habbitable space above the room, there is no need to use a fire rated product. A free space of at least 50mm should be provided around the fitting in the loft in order to prevent it from over-heating. So that you can do this and maintain continuity of insulation, you need to either use a metal box of make a box from plasterboard.
A common misconception is that the metal boxes make the fitting fire rated - that is not the case. If you decide on a fire rated fitting, make sure you buy one that is.
The other advantage of a fire rated fitting is that they tend to be draft free thanks to the metal "can" on the rear.
Fire rated fittings also need clearance to the rear to prevent them from overheating.
- Phil
B17NNS said:
Goochie said:
As there is no habbitable space above the room, there is no need to use a fire rated product.
I've just had a bungalow re-wired.Both the spark and the building inspector insisted on fire rated spots.
Did you fit a fire rated ceiling too? Fire rated downlights are a little pointless in a normal single skin ceiling.
Just because a room is classed as non-habitable doesn't mean it's not a different fire compartment. Using a bungalow as an example then the ceilings should be compartments to prevent fire spreading from, say, the kitchen to anyother room via the loft.
You can fit an intumescent material hood over the unit instead of a metal box. Envirograf manufacture a few examples. Screwfix and any reputable lighting shop / wholesaler will have them too. These push the insulation up out of the way in the same way a metal box does but are easier to retro-fit.
You can fit an intumescent material hood over the unit instead of a metal box. Envirograf manufacture a few examples. Screwfix and any reputable lighting shop / wholesaler will have them too. These push the insulation up out of the way in the same way a metal box does but are easier to retro-fit.
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