Moving an internal doorframe.
Discussion
Can anyone give me an idea of the work & costs involved in moving an internal door (frame) about 2 feet. This is to allow a shower to be installed in a downstairs cloakroom. We wouldnt be able to get in the shower with the door in its current position. The wall isn't load bearing and doesnt have any electricals on it.
garycat said:
Can anyone give me an idea of the work & costs involved in moving an internal door (frame) about 2 feet. This is to allow a shower to be installed in a downstairs cloakroom. We wouldnt be able to get in the shower with the door in its current position. The wall isn't load bearing and doesnt have any electricals on it.
Most obvious question: is it a brick wall, or cardboard?saleen836 said:
Is it possible to alter the door to open outwards?
Yes, we will have to do that anyway, but the shower cubicle will still overlap part of the doorway so getting in and out would be awkward if dont move the aperture.It's brick (breeze block I think) but non-load bearing.
Edited by garycat on Wednesday 19th August 13:27
Moving the door in a non-loadbearing wall should be easy enough. I the existing architraves, door and frame can be salvaged then you'll need to consider the following;
Temp supports.
New lintel (possibly).
New blockwork.
New plaster.
New skirtings.
New floorboards.
New floor coverings (patching in).
Shouldn't take too long (a day) but it'll be spread out a bit. You'll need to let the blockwork go off before fitting the door frame. Then the plaster needs to go off before the architraves and skirtings can go on.
Temp supports.
New lintel (possibly).
New blockwork.
New plaster.
New skirtings.
New floorboards.
New floor coverings (patching in).
Shouldn't take too long (a day) but it'll be spread out a bit. You'll need to let the blockwork go off before fitting the door frame. Then the plaster needs to go off before the architraves and skirtings can go on.
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