Laying concrete on concrete?
Discussion
Yea, i think that's gonna be a little too thin.
You can try it, but as mentioned above, ideally you need the concrete think enough to support any weight by itself, the thinner sections only need to move a fraction for them to start cracking again, especially if above other cracks, which show there is some sort of movement going on.
by all means, you can give it a go, weigh it up with level with a few cracks that might need the odd local repair vs the current potholeyness
You can try it, but as mentioned above, ideally you need the concrete think enough to support any weight by itself, the thinner sections only need to move a fraction for them to start cracking again, especially if above other cracks, which show there is some sort of movement going on.
by all means, you can give it a go, weigh it up with level with a few cracks that might need the odd local repair vs the current potholeyness
Don't even bother trying to lay concrete down to 10mm think it will just crack etc so you will have just wasted your money.
Best thing if you want a proper job and a nice (ish concrete doesn't look that good) drive would be to dig up the exsisting and put down a well compacted base then pour the new drive on top, or maybe even go for something else, gravel, blockpaving tarmac etc etc.
Best thing if you want a proper job and a nice (ish concrete doesn't look that good) drive would be to dig up the exsisting and put down a well compacted base then pour the new drive on top, or maybe even go for something else, gravel, blockpaving tarmac etc etc.
TheD said:
Thin concrete just doesn't work. The best way for the smallest amount of money but a bit of effort would be to stihl saw out the cracks and square cut round the potholes. Dig/gouge out the old concrete and refill.
Do This.You might want to prime the sides and bottom of the hole with a slurry mix of cement and SBR first, to increase bonding. PVA is water-soluble, so don't use this in this case.
At 28M long then there should be some movement joints in the concrete too.
Laying a 10mm thick topping coat of concrete isn't going to work as it'll break the first time you (or the neighbour) drives over it.
Tarmac is a good alternative for a 'thin' top coat but as said you'll still need atleast 40mm and some form of kerbing detail.
Chopping out the cracks and potholes refilling them with concrete and cutting in some movement joints is a good repair but if there are 100 holes to be done then you may as well lift the whole lot and relay it.
If the most important thing is making money on the property then consider what impact the bad access is going to have. Doesn't matter how good the house is if you wreck your car getting to it. So any future valuation will reflect this and it'll also give any buyer a negotiation point. If that future 'hassle' is acceptable to you then just leave drive as is.
Laying a 10mm thick topping coat of concrete isn't going to work as it'll break the first time you (or the neighbour) drives over it.
Tarmac is a good alternative for a 'thin' top coat but as said you'll still need atleast 40mm and some form of kerbing detail.
Chopping out the cracks and potholes refilling them with concrete and cutting in some movement joints is a good repair but if there are 100 holes to be done then you may as well lift the whole lot and relay it.
If the most important thing is making money on the property then consider what impact the bad access is going to have. Doesn't matter how good the house is if you wreck your car getting to it. So any future valuation will reflect this and it'll also give any buyer a negotiation point. If that future 'hassle' is acceptable to you then just leave drive as is.
Edited by mk1fan on Monday 17th August 11:57
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