Lintel and Patio Door
Discussion
Im pretty handy with a set of tools and not scared to give things a go, but looking at replacing an existing window with a patio door.
I obviousily need to install a bigger lintel and from what I have read on the internet I drill holes which I then place metal rods (needles) and then have a nice bit of thick wood under the pins supported by jacks. I can then knock out the old lintel, install my longer lintel for the doors and hey presto knock out the rest of the brickwork. Sounds easy but is this really something I should attempt ? Is it a days work or will it take a couple of days. Also the wall is external so I believe I need a type of lintel which forces water to the external wall. It is a single storey extension so the only load is from the rafters and tiles on the roof. Do I get the Pros in ?
Any advice help etc... appreciated.
I obviousily need to install a bigger lintel and from what I have read on the internet I drill holes which I then place metal rods (needles) and then have a nice bit of thick wood under the pins supported by jacks. I can then knock out the old lintel, install my longer lintel for the doors and hey presto knock out the rest of the brickwork. Sounds easy but is this really something I should attempt ? Is it a days work or will it take a couple of days. Also the wall is external so I believe I need a type of lintel which forces water to the external wall. It is a single storey extension so the only load is from the rafters and tiles on the roof. Do I get the Pros in ?
Any advice help etc... appreciated.
I am guessing that if it is single storey with a pitched roof there is sod all to really hold up.
There could only a single inner skin of blocks with a wall plate over.
Without a pic or a look at it , it may be that you would put a scaffold plank to the underside of the ceiling , therefore holding the ceiling joists and rafters , wind up 2 / 3 acros then get on with your new opening .
Something like an IG Lintel type L1 /S or if there is NO brick outer skin an L1 /E would do the job.
A pic will be worth a lot in this instance
There could only a single inner skin of blocks with a wall plate over.
Without a pic or a look at it , it may be that you would put a scaffold plank to the underside of the ceiling , therefore holding the ceiling joists and rafters , wind up 2 / 3 acros then get on with your new opening .
Something like an IG Lintel type L1 /S or if there is NO brick outer skin an L1 /E would do the job.
A pic will be worth a lot in this instance
IG Lintel L1/HD 75 will probably do the job or equivalent.. But do not take this as read and fit one!! We need to know the increased span and the load upon the span. How many floors are above it?
I'm guessing you're increasing the span, hence the need for the improved lintel.
You will need to work out the load on the span, but this isn't too difficult to do.
If you want help with I can help.
As Busamav has mentioned if you go down the Building Control route they will want to see some sort of design, with calcs to support the choice of lintel or steel.
I'm guessing you're increasing the span, hence the need for the improved lintel.
You will need to work out the load on the span, but this isn't too difficult to do.
If you want help with I can help.
As Busamav has mentioned if you go down the Building Control route they will want to see some sort of design, with calcs to support the choice of lintel or steel.
Instead of punching needles through use http://www.strongboy.co.uk/product_info.php/produc... good luck.
D14 AYS said:
Instead of punching needles through use http://www.strongboy.co.uk/product_info.php/produc... good luck.
Yes - most hire centres hire these as well - I think they cost us about £10 each per week.Great advice guys, yes it is a pitched roof.
A good idea about supporting the ceiling and thus the rafters...obvious when you know how.
I haven`t got a door yet so once I know exact dimensions then I will put a post on....
Building Inspector...hmmmm didn`t realise they would be interested.
A good idea about supporting the ceiling and thus the rafters...obvious when you know how.
I haven`t got a door yet so once I know exact dimensions then I will put a post on....
Building Inspector...hmmmm didn`t realise they would be interested.
D14 AYS said:
Instead of punching needles through use http://www.strongboy.co.uk/product_info.php/produc... good luck.
Strongboys can drastically reduce the weight class of the acros tho' - worth bearing in mind.You need a structural engineer, or building control, to determine what size steel you need - we have a similar case using an L1/something catnic-type thing for a 3.6m hole - but it's abilities in our case are marginal so we need an extra 152x89 I beam as well - guessing may be A Bad Idea.
robsartain said:
Great advice guys, yes it is a pitched roof.
A good idea about supporting the ceiling and thus the rafters...obvious when you know how.
I haven`t got a door yet so once I know exact dimensions then I will put a post on....
Building Inspector...hmmmm didn`t realise they would be interested.
They're _always_ interested! "any building work"A good idea about supporting the ceiling and thus the rafters...obvious when you know how.
I haven`t got a door yet so once I know exact dimensions then I will put a post on....
Building Inspector...hmmmm didn`t realise they would be interested.
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