Taper edge plasterboard & joint OR relpaster?!
Discussion
ACEparts_com said:
Which is best - taper edge plaster board and do the edges OR straight edge and replaster the ceiling / whole room? Need new ceilings totalling 70 sheets of plasterboard (190 m2). I also want clean corners, NOT coving.
I'd like to set off down the right path.
Skim it much better finish if you hav a good spread.I'd like to set off down the right path.
Taper edge goes alot quicker and is alot cheaper BUT a skimcoat is more durable, for instance when stripping wallpaper you dont take the paper coat off the plasterboard 
If your gunna paint it then maybe the cheaper option is better for you.
Both ways done properly will give you a perfectly flat wall
If your gunna paint it then maybe the cheaper option is better for you.
Both ways done properly will give you a perfectly flat wall
If your using 8x4 sheets it is just over 200m2
I would say cost wise and cleanliness tape/joint it and you can still have clean internals, skim it by all means but much bigger risk of cracking where the ceilings meet the walls, but a tube or 3 of painters caulk should see that sorted.
I would say cost wise and cleanliness tape/joint it and you can still have clean internals, skim it by all means but much bigger risk of cracking where the ceilings meet the walls, but a tube or 3 of painters caulk should see that sorted.
It is no more or less likely to crack at the joint between wall and ceiling whatever method you use.
The best way to prevent a crack would be to scrim the joint, skim the ceiling and skim the top of the wall and feather it in downwards.
If you've dropped all the ceilings I'm assuming there will be a bit of making good to do at the top of the walls anyway.
The best way to prevent a crack would be to scrim the joint, skim the ceiling and skim the top of the wall and feather it in downwards.
If you've dropped all the ceilings I'm assuming there will be a bit of making good to do at the top of the walls anyway.
Edited by B17NNS on Monday 3rd August 02:00
B17NNS said:
It is no more or less likely to crack at the joint between wall and ceiling whatever method you use.
The best way to prevent a crack would be to scrim the joint, skim the ceiling and skim the top of the wall and feather it in downwards.
If you've dropped all the ceilings I'm assuming there will be a bit of making good to do at the top of the walls anyway.
If you tape/joint the ceiling and use the correct paper tape for the internal where the ceiling meets the wall (feathered out on the wall side) it will be 95% crack free (assuming done correctly) using scrim tape will give you a 50% chance of it cracking.The best way to prevent a crack would be to scrim the joint, skim the ceiling and skim the top of the wall and feather it in downwards.
If you've dropped all the ceilings I'm assuming there will be a bit of making good to do at the top of the walls anyway.
Edited by B17NNS on Monday 3rd August 02:00
Aside from the money saving part of tape/jointing the speed and cleanliness most modern house builders use this method over traditional plastering as it is 95% crack free, giving them less maintenance after 12 months on new properties.
Autonotiv said:
How is tape and fill cheaper then skimming? you have to do three coats + rubbing down + the filler and tape.
How is it quicker too??
It might not be quicker, depending on who is doing it! It is cheaper and easier though as there is less skill involved in 'taping and joining', mnost of the work is in the sanding, which is pretty much grunt work.How is it quicker too??
Even an amateur can get a perfect finish using tape and mud, it will just take a while.
Hedders said:
Autonotiv said:
How is tape and fill cheaper then skimming? you have to do three coats + rubbing down + the filler and tape.
How is it quicker too??
It might not be quicker, depending on who is doing it! It is cheaper and easier though as there is less skill involved in 'taping and joining', mnost of the work is in the sanding, which is pretty much grunt work.How is it quicker too??
Even an amateur can get a perfect finish using tape and mud, it will just take a while.
saleen836 said:
Hedders said:
Autonotiv said:
How is tape and fill cheaper then skimming? you have to do three coats + rubbing down + the filler and tape.
How is it quicker too??
It might not be quicker, depending on who is doing it! It is cheaper and easier though as there is less skill involved in 'taping and joining', mnost of the work is in the sanding, which is pretty much grunt work.How is it quicker too??
Even an amateur can get a perfect finish using tape and mud, it will just take a while.
I guess you do need some basic common sense, but any DIY'er should be up to the task! If you f
k it up you can always call a plasterer in..I will agree on the part of over filling then sanding till flat but what happens when external angles have to be put on around windows or even an arch? easy to say just over fill and then sand back, if your doing it yourself for your own place faie enough, but I do it for a living and it has to be spot on due to it being a finished surface ready for the painter.
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