caulk, decorators filler, shop own filler, polyfiller

[loltolhurst]

Which one should I use?! Either for cracks on the wall or sealing bits up? Ive always used polyfiller or the shops own before never heard of caulk - is that better as it seems to be cheaper?

Thanks

[robinhood21]

Polyfiller or own-brand filler is OK for filling imperfections on walls/ceilings etc. Decorators caulk is good for filling cracks around window frames, skirtings and door frames etc. Oh, and use a wet sponge to smooth the caulk out.

[northwest monkey]

Don't try & sand caulk as it doesnt set! Perfect for down the corners of the walls, hairline cracks in ceilings, doorframes, on tops of skirts etc. Basically anywhere you could experience a bit of flex. Don't get the magnolia coloured stuff though - it's horrible!

[Nolar Dog]

Decorators caulk is the best thing in the world.

Ever.

Although it doesn't taste very nice

[james_tigerwoods]

Holy thread resurrection batman...

I, too, was wondering about caulk - I need to try to get the kitchen finished and I need to seal the gap between the tiles and the worktop.

I've got some kitchen sealant, but the guy at B&Q mentioned using decorator's caulk instead and I'm somewhat sceptical on that one.

Having done a bit of reading, it seems like it's a panacea and can be used for most things - filling, sealing, etc and it can be painted over - is this true or am I better off using filler for holes, sealant for that gap and this caulk for everything else (if so, what else is there?)?

JTW

resurrected to save on a new thread

[Piersman2]

james_tigerwoods said:

Holy thread resurrection batman...

I, too, was wondering about caulk - I need to try to get the kitchen finished and I need to seal the gap between the tiles and the worktop.

I've got some kitchen sealant, but the guy at B&Q mentioned using decorator's caulk instead and I'm somewhat sceptical on that one.

Having done a bit of reading, it seems like it's a panacea and can be used for most things - filling, sealing, etc and it can be painted over - is this true or am I better off using filler for holes, sealant for that gap and this caulk for everything else (if so, what else is there?)?

JTW

resurrected to save on a new thread

Caulk is usually used to smooth in angled edges between things. It's used and applied a bit like silicon sealant bit it doesn't dry out completely, stays slightly flexible and can be painted over with about an hour usually. I use a lot of caulk to fill in around the edges of things, like coving, windows edges, door frames etc... where there is a small gap, crack or not very smooth edge, and where you will eventually want to apply a coat of paint.

What you can't do with caulk is try and sand it. So no use for flat surfaces where you want to fill in a hole and need a smooth sanded finish, For this use something like a smooth fill plaster that you can leave to set and dry and then sand smooth

For around the edge of your worktop I would use silicon, an appropriate colour of silicon. The silicon is tougher then caulk, will stretch if the worktop has any flex and will stick to the worktop and back wall forming a hygienic seal. Mask the worktop and wall if you want a really smart, stright, tight line of silicon. Silicon will not crack with movement, like caulkl would, but cannot be painted over as the paint cannot adhere to the silicon even when dry.

Hope this helps

ETA, I wouldn't use caulk for the worktop becuase when it's dry, although it stays slightly flexible it would eventually crack up and become a trap for germs and genrally look st. It's supposed to be painted and I can't imagine you want to paint right down onto your worktop!

Edited by Piersman2 on Tuesday 14th December 14:57

[james_tigerwoods]

Thanks, that helps a lot

I didn't realise it can't be sanded though as where it's been applied in the kitchen, it's solid and looks (and feels) sand-able.

I was always going to use sealant for the tiles as I need to be sure it's a good, close, fit (I know how much water the OH splashes about when doing dishes....)

[Piersman2]

Maybe if the caulk is old enough, thin enough and it might be sandable, but usually it forms a skin fairly quickly so that it can be painted after an hour and then the rest of the bead takes an age to dry out. And even then , when I've tried to sand it in the past it kinda forms bobbles rather than dust and leaves the surface looking ste. In a nutshell, caulk is quick tidy up option where you can use your finger to smooth it out, then paint very soon afterwards.

As you've said, for the worktop edges use silicon. I use masking tape to form a thin channel where I want the silicon to go and then make sure that I force the siliocn right into the joint. Then peel the masking tape off immediately before the silicon has a chance to set. This gives a lovely neat pencil line finish.. if you make sure and press the silicon right down to the edges of the masking tape when you run your finger/thumb along to smooth it out.

[philmots]

I used some caulk in the past between a wall and door frame, but it's started to lift from the painted wall... When i redo it is it best to sand the wall that i want the caulk to stick to to give it more chance?

[m4ckg]

try Easyfill for general filling of cracks in plaster work, its a lot easier to sand than Polyfill

[james_tigerwoods]

m4ckg said:

try Easyfill for general filling of cracks in plaster work, its a lot easier to sand than Polyfill

I put a coat of that over a couple of walls last night as removing the textured paint was going to take too damned long - I've used it before and it does indeed sand well - that said, filler is ideal for a small section. You are right, though, polyfilla is a PITA to sand....

[CO2000]

m4ckg said:

try Easyfill for general filling of cracks in plaster work, its a lot easier to sand than Polyfill

This is what I use for small areas & a big 12kg tub of pre mixed Gyproc joint filler for bigger areas (you can get it at B&Q etc for approx £16-18)

http://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/dry-lining/dry-...

& use the mesh fibreglass tape over cracks.

I buff down initally with an electric 1/3rd sheet sander (I find the green oakey fine sand paper best)
& finish by hand using a 3M rubber block with the same sand paper and a 500v halogen light shining in from the side to pick up imperfections.

In the middle of it now (front room like ground zero !)

Whatever you do don't buy smooth over as its about 10 times the price of the above.