Replacing turf
Discussion
The grass in my back garden is all over the place (bumps, dips, poor growing areas, high growing areas) and I want to sort it.
My intention is to hire a Rotovator / Tiller to rip up all the old stuff and level out the ground and then buy some fresh turf to lay on top. Water lots and leave.
Is it that simple or am I missing out some steps?
Ta
My intention is to hire a Rotovator / Tiller to rip up all the old stuff and level out the ground and then buy some fresh turf to lay on top. Water lots and leave.
Is it that simple or am I missing out some steps?
Ta
I was literally just about to post the exact same question. The garden of a property I've just bought (below) is in a poor state - full of weeds, old tree stumps, rocks, and completely unlevel (with some qutie big mounds).
I'm debating whether to hire a mini digger and try it myself of just to get someone in to sort it.
If anyone has any idea how much it would cost for someone to sort it to make it nice and level and turf is it would be much appreciated.
The Doctor
I'm debating whether to hire a mini digger and try it myself of just to get someone in to sort it.
If anyone has any idea how much it would cost for someone to sort it to make it nice and level and turf is it would be much appreciated.
The Doctor
pincher said:
Instead of going through all the bother of rotorvating, why not just cut the existing grass as short as you can, whack a tonne or two of topsoil on top, level it all off and then just re-turf on top of that?
Easily done over a weekend I would say
+1Easily done over a weekend I would say
Even though that is mainly meadow grasses even by cutting what you are doing each time you cut is making conditions unbearable for weeds and even some types of grasses and allowing the 'lawn grasses' to flourish.
Once the lawn is there, you can add topsoil in spots and the grass will just grow through from the bottom and sides.
Thats the cheapest and simplest option.
The problem with putting turf down though is you do need to rotivate and flatten the soil before you start otherwise the turf won't take well with only a short amount of soil. Turf will a short root base dies in the summer and again in the wet and needs a lot of feeding.
Oh yes, and get yourself a saw and choppers for the hedge at the back...!
Edited by JustinP1 on Thursday 16th April 10:52
pincher said:
Instead of going through all the bother of rotorvating, why not just cut the existing grass as short as you can, whack a tonne or two of topsoil on top, level it all off and then just re-turf on top of that?
Easily done over a weekend I would say
Sorry to hi-jack your thread pikey Easily done over a weekend I would say
I think this might be the answer. I don't think a rotovator is going to level it out that much as it just turns the soil over (AFAIK). Depending on how un-level it is you might need a mini digger or such. The thing is, if it is quite uneven I'd imagine you'd take of several tonnes of earth to try and bring it all down to the same level.
Another problem with rotovating and laying turf on top is that by rotovating the weed-filled lawn you till lots of undesirable material (seeds etc) into the soil. This will then just spring up through the thin layer of turf you put on top.
My sister (who's a gardener of sorts) suggested spraying weedkiller (one that will wash away and wont stay in the soil - i.e. systemic) over the whole garden and then covering everything with black plastic sheeting for a couple of week to basically kill everything. You can then use this as a base - whether you take off and level or add to and level.
Edited by Dr_Gonzo on Thursday 16th April 16:43
Dr_Gonzo said:
Another problem with rotovating and laying turf on top is that by rotovating the weed-filled lawn you till lots of undesirable material (seeds etc) into the soil. This will then just spring up through the thin layer of turf you put on top.
Yes! You bring seeds to the surface who then say 'whahay!' and germinate merrily. Dr_Gonzo said:
My sister (who's a gardener of sorts) suggested spraying weedkiller (one that will wash away and wont stay in the soil - i.e. systemic)
Have to correct you there. A systemic herbicide is translocated within the plant, which is nothing to do with soil residuality. A herbicide that won't wash away is called 'residual' - these are commonly called 'path & drive weedkillers' and last maybe 1-3 years depending on location. However, by their very nature they remian active in the soil, so you can't plant anything else or it will die.In short, herbicides fall into three basic categories:
Residual (remians active in soil) or Non-residual (breaks down)
Total (kills all plants) or Selective
Contact or Translocated
Path & drive weedkillers are 'total residual'. Glyphosate ('Roundup' etc) is 'total non-residual'. Lawn weedkillers are 'selective non-residual'. Paraquat and diquat are 'total non-residual' but not translocated - ie they only kill what they touch, aka contact weedkillers.
HTH!
Turf is great, sort of an outside carpet that grows, just laid an area (about 250m2) around a new cafe that we had built over the winter. My pleadings with the builders to keep off the grass where a waste of time and the site got pretty messed up (understandably really) Basically levelled things off with topsoil and whacked down the turf. Had a lad come in and help and whole job done in less than a week. Turf is 'cheap as chips' about £1.10/m2 collected and an instant transformation. Had to buy a pump because my water pressure is so crap i couldnt run a sprinkler of the main but with a good watering and the rain of late all is well.
Sure if you rotavate the garden turf will be fine, might find some weeds and old grass grow thro a bit but thats not much of a problem, best thing a good dose of glyphosate chemi (Roundup) pre turfing and give it 3 or 4 days before rotavating. Dont spray in wind tho or you may kill off neighbours garden aswell.
Pic shows some of the grass on frontage, that looked like a bombsite 24hrs before
Sure if you rotavate the garden turf will be fine, might find some weeds and old grass grow thro a bit but thats not much of a problem, best thing a good dose of glyphosate chemi (Roundup) pre turfing and give it 3 or 4 days before rotavating. Dont spray in wind tho or you may kill off neighbours garden aswell.
Pic shows some of the grass on frontage, that looked like a bombsite 24hrs before
R TOY said:
Turf is great, sort of an outside carpet that grows, just laid an area (about 250m2) around a new cafe that we had built over the winter. My pleadings with the builders to keep off the grass where a waste of time and the site got pretty messed up (understandably really) Basically levelled things off with topsoil and whacked down the turf. Had a lad come in and help and whole job done in less than a week. Turf is 'cheap as chips' about £1.10/m2 collected and an instant transformation. Had to buy a pump because my water pressure is so crap i couldnt run a sprinkler of the main but with a good watering and the rain of late all is well.
Sure if you rotavate the garden turf will be fine, might find some weeds and old grass grow thro a bit but thats not much of a problem, best thing a good dose of glyphosate chemi (Roundup) pre turfing and give it 3 or 4 days before rotavating. Dont spray in wind tho or you may kill off neighbours garden aswell.
Pic shows some of the grass on frontage, that looked like a bombsite 24hrs before
nice looking cafe there!Sure if you rotavate the garden turf will be fine, might find some weeds and old grass grow thro a bit but thats not much of a problem, best thing a good dose of glyphosate chemi (Roundup) pre turfing and give it 3 or 4 days before rotavating. Dont spray in wind tho or you may kill off neighbours garden aswell.
Pic shows some of the grass on frontage, that looked like a bombsite 24hrs before
where did you get turf for that price?
R TOY said:
Turf is great, sort of an outside carpet that grows, just laid an area (about 250m2) around a new cafe that we had built over the winter. My pleadings with the builders to keep off the grass where a waste of time and the site got pretty messed up (understandably really) Basically levelled things off with topsoil and whacked down the turf. Had a lad come in and help and whole job done in less than a week. Turf is 'cheap as chips' about £1.10/m2 collected and an instant transformation. Had to buy a pump because my water pressure is so crap i couldnt run a sprinkler of the main but with a good watering and the rain of late all is well.
Sure if you rotavate the garden turf will be fine, might find some weeds and old grass grow thro a bit but thats not much of a problem, best thing a good dose of glyphosate chemi (Roundup) pre turfing and give it 3 or 4 days before rotavating. Dont spray in wind tho or you may kill off neighbours garden aswell.
Pic shows some of the grass on frontage, that looked like a bombsite 24hrs before
The proof of well laid turf comes after the dry spell of the summer. If you get past that you should be OK.Sure if you rotavate the garden turf will be fine, might find some weeds and old grass grow thro a bit but thats not much of a problem, best thing a good dose of glyphosate chemi (Roundup) pre turfing and give it 3 or 4 days before rotavating. Dont spray in wind tho or you may kill off neighbours garden aswell.
Pic shows some of the grass on frontage, that looked like a bombsite 24hrs before
The problem a lot of people get is if the preparation below isn't perfect the turf above will look fine and survive in the inch or two of soil it came with, but if the roots don't penetrate down into the soil below the dry spell will kill the whole thing off.
Luckily I have quite a small garden so could turn and level the lot by hand in a weekend using 2 people, 1 spade and 1 rake.
But yes, its as simple as turn, remove old lumps of grass, stones and debris, level, thin out all the big lumps even more, make sure it is level, THEN arrange for the turf to be delivered. Lay it immediately, stagger the joints, make sure it is butted up very tight, tread it down well, then literally keep off it and water water water for a few weeks (and I mean saturate twice daily) until it takes. Resist the urge to mow when it does take and grow; let it get stupidly long before its first cut, and keep it at it's best by cutting it often but not too low. Simples.
Oh, and buy good quality turf. This doesn't include the B&Q stuff which is massively overpriced and poor quality.
But yes, its as simple as turn, remove old lumps of grass, stones and debris, level, thin out all the big lumps even more, make sure it is level, THEN arrange for the turf to be delivered. Lay it immediately, stagger the joints, make sure it is butted up very tight, tread it down well, then literally keep off it and water water water for a few weeks (and I mean saturate twice daily) until it takes. Resist the urge to mow when it does take and grow; let it get stupidly long before its first cut, and keep it at it's best by cutting it often but not too low. Simples.
Oh, and buy good quality turf. This doesn't include the B&Q stuff which is massively overpriced and poor quality.
Dr_Gonzo said:
I was literally just about to post the exact same question. The garden of a property I've just bought (below) is in a poor state - full of weeds, old tree stumps, rocks, and completely unlevel (with some qutie big mounds).
I'm debating whether to hire a mini digger and try it myself of just to get someone in to sort it.
If anyone has any idea how much it would cost for someone to sort it to make it nice and level and turf is it would be much appreciated.
The Doctor
Does Skellig live in that shed?I'm debating whether to hire a mini digger and try it myself of just to get someone in to sort it.
If anyone has any idea how much it would cost for someone to sort it to make it nice and level and turf is it would be much appreciated.
The Doctor
Right, I'm going to go for it.
Just decided to take down 4 trees first too. Laylandi (sp?). Bloody ugly, nasty, light hogging, too fast growing, horrid things. Neighbour's fine with it. Will replace their spot with turf.
Suppose I should ask how to take such trees out, but I have a chainsaw and will do it the proper way... beer in one hand, chainsaw in the other!
Just decided to take down 4 trees first too. Laylandi (sp?). Bloody ugly, nasty, light hogging, too fast growing, horrid things. Neighbour's fine with it. Will replace their spot with turf.
Suppose I should ask how to take such trees out, but I have a chainsaw and will do it the proper way... beer in one hand, chainsaw in the other!
pikey said:
Right, I'm going to go for it.
Just decided to take down 4 trees first too. Laylandi (sp?). Bloody ugly, nasty, light hogging, too fast growing, horrid things. Neighbour's fine with it. Will replace their spot with turf.
Suppose I should ask how to take such trees out, but I have a chainsaw and will do it the proper way... beer in one hand, chainsaw in the other!
If you chainsaw it at the base you will have troubles taking the root out. Just decided to take down 4 trees first too. Laylandi (sp?). Bloody ugly, nasty, light hogging, too fast growing, horrid things. Neighbour's fine with it. Will replace their spot with turf.
Suppose I should ask how to take such trees out, but I have a chainsaw and will do it the proper way... beer in one hand, chainsaw in the other!
If they are big the roots on those are like monsters. I would chop it at 6ft high if it is a monster to give you some leverage to rip the roots out.
If you have a Landy and a towbar they are perfect. If not, be prepared to dig around to get the stump out.
Or, if you have the time on your hands, cut it as low as you can, then cut a deep cross into the top of the stump to let the rot get in. You can even get some effective killers to speed it up. Two years later when the roots are dead and the wood is dead they come out a lot more easily.
This week I just spend no more that five minutes ripping out a root which 18 months ago I spent hours on failing to pull it out!
Leylandi are relatively easy to get out, although they have have a habit of giving you little splinters which you then spend the next week getting out, esecially as they get in down your back etc.
My tactic with all laylandi I have taken out, inluding some of 40ft has been to get a long way up it, and tie a rope to it. Then take off all the low brances to give enough working room and the base of the trunk (so up to about 7ft). Then dig up the ground around it to access the roots. Cut them as you go. Every know and again test the rope, and at some point in the process it will start to come down. Just pull hard and jobs done, no stump to deal with!
In fact on reflection there was one that I had to use different tactics on as I couldnt get to the base as a Arbour was in the way. So I cut it off at 6 ft above the ground and left the remainder for a couple of years. Took the arbour down recently, and just leant against the remining stump of the Leylandi and it fell over!
Oh and I would also suggest weedkilling the existing lawn before rotoravting it. Oncce rotorvated you will need to level it, either using a mini-digger or a rake!
My tactic with all laylandi I have taken out, inluding some of 40ft has been to get a long way up it, and tie a rope to it. Then take off all the low brances to give enough working room and the base of the trunk (so up to about 7ft). Then dig up the ground around it to access the roots. Cut them as you go. Every know and again test the rope, and at some point in the process it will start to come down. Just pull hard and jobs done, no stump to deal with!
In fact on reflection there was one that I had to use different tactics on as I couldnt get to the base as a Arbour was in the way. So I cut it off at 6 ft above the ground and left the remainder for a couple of years. Took the arbour down recently, and just leant against the remining stump of the Leylandi and it fell over!
Oh and I would also suggest weedkilling the existing lawn before rotoravting it. Oncce rotorvated you will need to level it, either using a mini-digger or a rake!
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