CH/HW question

Author
Discussion

parapaul

Original Poster:

2,828 posts

204 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
My CH system is very basic. One timer (analogue, not digital) controls the heating and HW together. So to have enough hot water for a shave in the morning, the heating has to come on an hour before I get up, resulting in the house being like an oven for the 3 hours between then and when the OH gets up. Not that she minds, obviously rolleyes

Until last year when I moved in, there was no thermostat at all. I've had thermo valves fitted on all the rads so at least I have some measure of control over the house temperature now. Still don't have one for the HW tank.

The house I used to live in was a new build, and had a posh timer with separate controls for the CH and HW, which meant in summer I could just turn off the CH altogether.

So... Is it possible (or feasible, I suppose) to change what I've got now for a timer which will control the CH and HW independently? Or would it mean a major rewire?

dirkgently

2,160 posts

237 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
I suspect that a cylinder stat or a motorised valve is not working on your system, but with the advent of wireless controls your system should be upgradable without too much wiring.

eta I cant see many trades coming in to homes garden diy, as most of us have had a gutful by the time we get home. I only clicked by accident.

Edited by dirkgently on Wednesday 8th April 08:08

parapaul

Original Poster:

2,828 posts

204 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
dirkgently said:
eta I cant see many trades coming in to homes garden diy, as most of us have had a gutful by the time we get home. I only clicked by accident.

Edited by dirkgently on Wednesday 8th April 08:08
I wondered about that TBH... It's good, this new layout... rolleyes

Simpo Two

86,735 posts

271 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
parapaul said:
It's good, this new layout... rolleyes
Well you got 17 posts on your fencing thread, and none about willies or Oxo towers, which is refreshing.

mfmman

2,653 posts

189 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
Fit a switch to the pump circuit so you can turn it off in the summer. The water will go round the cylinder loop by convection only. This is why the pipes to and from the cylinder will (should) be bigger, 22mm as opposed to 15mm to the rads.

Deva Link

26,934 posts

251 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
parapaul said:
My CH system is very basic. One timer (analogue, not digital) controls the heating and HW together. So to have enough hot water for a shave in the morning, the heating has to come on an hour before I get up, resulting in the house being like an oven for the 3 hours between then and when the OH gets up. Not that she minds, obviously rolleyes

Until last year when I moved in, there was no thermostat at all. I've had thermo valves fitted on all the rads so at least I have some measure of control over the house temperature now. Still don't have one for the HW tank.

The house I used to live in was a new build, and had a posh timer with separate controls for the CH and HW, which meant in summer I could just turn off the CH altogether.

So... Is it possible (or feasible, I suppose) to change what I've got now for a timer which will control the CH and HW independently? Or would it mean a major rewire?
There are some diagrams here http://www.miketheboilerman.com/pipeworklayouts.ht... and you probably got something like the first diagram and what you need is something like the second diagram.

If you have got gravity hot water then it's not just rewiring, you would need a fair bit of replumbing too.

Ferg

15,242 posts

263 months

Thursday 9th April 2009
quotequote all
mfmman said:
Fit a switch to the pump circuit so you can turn it off in the summer. The water will go round the cylinder loop by convection only. This is why the pipes to and from the cylinder will (should) be bigger, 22mm as opposed to 15mm to the rads.
With ALL due respect this post is real nonsense.......

Heat will only circulate through a cylinder 'loop' by convection under carefully designed conditions and unless the system has been designed like this from the outset it's VERY unlikely to work. If it WAS designed for gravity circulation it wouldn't have a pump on the hot water circuit anyway.

Also 15mm pipe will run roughly 13-14,000btu/Hr, so you won't run many radiators off that. Most boilers these days would simply kettle without 22mm into the heating circuit.

mfmman

2,653 posts

189 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
quotequote all
Ferg said:
mfmman said:
Fit a switch to the pump circuit so you can turn it off in the summer. The water will go round the cylinder loop by convection only. This is why the pipes to and from the cylinder will (should) be bigger, 22mm as opposed to 15mm to the rads.
With ALL due respect this post is real nonsense.......

Heat will only circulate through a cylinder 'loop' by convection under carefully designed conditions and unless the system has been designed like this from the outset it's VERY unlikely to work. If it WAS designed for gravity circulation it wouldn't have a pump on the hot water circuit anyway.

Also 15mm pipe will run roughly 13-14,000btu/Hr, so you won't run many radiators off that. Most boilers these days would simply kettle without 22mm into the heating circuit.
Ok so it was a bit of an oversimplification that might not work in all circumstances. Obviously I didn't do it on the suggestion on of a pipefitter with 40 years experience and it didn't work when I didn't do it. I'm surprised you think that the HWS circuit of a 55 year old semi (heating system and boiler probably nearly as old) must have been installed "under carefully designed conditions" in order to work as I described. Perhaps the OP needs real advice not random guesses on here smile