Timber decking joist spacing?
Discussion
Righto then, I'll be doing a bit of DIY this weekend that includes building a deck in the back garden, overall size will be 2.4m by 3m and one corner will be cut off at 45degrees to add a bit of shape and leave a bit more space in the garden (we aint working with much space here!!)
basically, the position of the angle leaves me with 1.2m clear span to the next joist position... ideally i should be putting in joists at 500mm centres, but in this position it'll be perfect with 600mm spacing. do you reckon this is going to be overly springy underfoot? should i just whack another joist/bearer in and have them at 400mm centres?
It's hardly a fast structure so i'm thinking it'll probably be ok, what are your thoughts?
basically, the position of the angle leaves me with 1.2m clear span to the next joist position... ideally i should be putting in joists at 500mm centres, but in this position it'll be perfect with 600mm spacing. do you reckon this is going to be overly springy underfoot? should i just whack another joist/bearer in and have them at 400mm centres?
It's hardly a fast structure so i'm thinking it'll probably be ok, what are your thoughts?
My "Complete guide to building decks" book(!) says for 1 inch thick boards laid diagonally the spacing should be 12", or 16" if the boards are laid straight.
If in doubt, it's probably worth putting in extra joists - if you don't do it you'll always notice any springy-ness and wish you had. On the other hand my wife does complain that my DIY is a bit 'industrial' .
If in doubt, it's probably worth putting in extra joists - if you don't do it you'll always notice any springy-ness and wish you had. On the other hand my wife does complain that my DIY is a bit 'industrial' .
Right then, the design is coming together well enough (i'm drawing it up in autoCad) for the sake of a length of timber, i might aswell stick em in at 400mm. Even if it's just for peace of mind.
Also I was intending to screw each joint, but the wickes guide i have here reckons a 6" nail (or 2) is the way to go.... thoughts on that?
Also I was intending to screw each joint, but the wickes guide i have here reckons a 6" nail (or 2) is the way to go.... thoughts on that?
pimpin gimp said:
Right then, the design is coming together well enough (i'm drawing it up in autoCad) for the sake of a length of timber, i might aswell stick em in at 400mm. Even if it's just for peace of mind.
Also I was intending to screw each joint, but the wickes guide i have here reckons a 6" nail (or 2) is the way to go.... thoughts on that?
I screwed mine, purely because, if one timber got damaged, I could simply unscrew it and put a new one down, but it depends on whether you can still get claw hammer leverage!Also I was intending to screw each joint, but the wickes guide i have here reckons a 6" nail (or 2) is the way to go.... thoughts on that?
In the States we have building codes for decks.
It probably varies State to State.
But mine were 36" concrete footings. Joists on hangers, nailed. Nails have a higher sheer strength than screws. 16" on centres for lumber, different for some of the engineered wood.
Screws for the planking, hammer dents are ugly !
I used hidden fixing brackets for my planking, I don't recc them as they do allow the wood to move a little, but on the plus side they give a little space between joist and planking for better air flow.
No drilling needed if the correct screws are used.
It probably varies State to State.
But mine were 36" concrete footings. Joists on hangers, nailed. Nails have a higher sheer strength than screws. 16" on centres for lumber, different for some of the engineered wood.
Screws for the planking, hammer dents are ugly !
I used hidden fixing brackets for my planking, I don't recc them as they do allow the wood to move a little, but on the plus side they give a little space between joist and planking for better air flow.
No drilling needed if the correct screws are used.
esselte said:
pimpin gimp said:
That was my thought, I've always drilled and screwed anything I've built.
Just seem more "right" than banging in nails. Also means I get to use more power tools, a win win situation really!
Just seem more "right" than banging in nails. Also means I get to use more power tools, a win win situation really!
BiggusLaddus said:
esselte said:
That looks barely able to nail a paper bag to pile of dung. I'd be very surprised if all of the nails fired by that went in properly.They use a lot of air, you need a decent compressor.
BiggusLaddus said:
esselte said:
That looks barely able to nail a paper bag to pile of dung. I'd be very surprised if all of the nails fired by that went in properly.That'll fire a 50mm nail right straight into a stack of OSB from 3 meters away
Edited by Shandypants on Friday 4th April 17:36
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