Polyurethane varnish to wooden floor? Roller, brush?

Polyurethane varnish to wooden floor? Roller, brush?

Author
Discussion

Dr Murdoch

Original Poster:

3,768 posts

150 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
I've now sanded a wooden floor, and want to go ahead and apply a polyurethane primer and varnish.

However, the internet has confused me! What's best, a short pile microfiber roller? Medium piles ? both appear to be aimed at emulsion and satin paints?

Just use a brush?

Room isn't massive, 3.5mx3.5m

OutInTheShed

11,476 posts

41 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
Largely, personal choice about what works for you, with that varnish, on that day, at that temperature.

I would try a decent brush myself, but one thing I have learned is, if it's not going well, stop! try a different brush, roller or whatever.

It's not trivial to keep a wet edge doing a floor, if the planks are long and the stuff dries quickly. With engineered wood in 4ft planks, I found doing it plank by plank with a brush worked well.

What finish are you using? I've not used 'primer' for varnish since International discontinued UCP.

Dr Murdoch

Original Poster:

3,768 posts

150 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
OutInTheShed said:
Largely, personal choice about what works for you, with that varnish, on that day, at that temperature.

I would try a decent brush myself, but one thing I have learned is, if it's not going well, stop! try a different brush, roller or whatever.

It's not trivial to keep a wet edge doing a floor, if the planks are long and the stuff dries quickly. With engineered wood in 4ft planks, I found doing it plank by plank with a brush worked well.

What finish are you using? I've not used 'primer' for varnish since International discontinued UCP.
Thanks.

Im using MANNS: https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/manns...

Ive gone for a Matt finish, so perhaps I'm over thinking it as little imperfections might not show?

OutInTheShed

11,476 posts

41 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
It's a floor.
It doesn't need to be perfect, it won't stay perfect.
But you can always re-do one plank if a defect annoys you enough.

PhilboSE

5,201 posts

241 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
I used Manns on a 4m x 4m parquet floor I’d stripped.
Just used a short pile roller on a pole, only took an hour or so. Used a brush to cut in some edges but I was putting skirtings on after so didn’t need to be ultra careful.

JoshSm

1,332 posts

52 months

Sunday 20th April
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No reason you couldn't use a foam roller, only real argument against is bubbles and that can be avoided..

Main thing I've found for success with varnish was slightly (sometimes more than slightly...) thinning the varnish, tended to just work better especially for getting it nice and flat & free of bubbles as it would flow more easily and also be workable for longer without affecting overall drying. That was with oil based, water based might not behave the same.

Don't forget you'll have multiple coats to do so if it goes a bit wrong there's lots of chances to correct it.

Dr Murdoch

Original Poster:

3,768 posts

150 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
Thanks all.

Would a mini foam roller do the trick? How can air bubbles be avoided Josh?

OutInTheShed

11,476 posts

41 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
Try the velour or 'mohair' type rollers perhaps.

Some people get great results with the foam rollers, it's a matter of 'technique' or 'style'.
You have to find what works for you.
I've got good results with foam brushes, but the paint went on very thin, so I'd probably opt for a normal brush, to get the correct coverage.
Given that it's a floor and the object of the game is to get a decent layer on to protect the wood from wear?

I would hope that matt varnish should be fairly forgiving on a floor.

PhilboSE

5,201 posts

241 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
It’s not worth overthinking this. The Manns stuff goes on great, you don’t need to worry about the finish or bubbles. Just get a cost on with a foam roller, work the runs into each other a bit (but don’t overwork it), job done.

JoshSm

1,332 posts

52 months

Sunday 20th April
quotequote all
Dr Murdoch said:
Thanks all.

Would a mini foam roller do the trick? How can air bubbles be avoided Josh?
Mini roller is easier to control, depends on area you are working and how quick you need to work it.

Depends a bit on technique but mostly not working too fast, not pressing too hard and having enough varnish to move around. You only really get bubbles when you squeeze air out so that's what you want to avoid. And if the varnish isn't laid on too thick, isn't too viscous and isn't too quick drying the bubbles come out anyway so not a big issue.

Can be an idea to lay the varnish on with a brush in a basic fashion and then use the roller to spread it out, avoids having to load the roller up.

dmsims

7,190 posts

282 months

Sunday 20th April
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mart 63

2,214 posts

259 months

Monday 21st April
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Window cleaning blade

KTMsm

28,903 posts

278 months

Monday 21st April
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9" (or larger) Roller of your preferred type on a pole

Brush to cut in

Why would you mess about with mini rollers ?

OutInTheShed

11,476 posts

41 months

Monday 21st April
quotequote all
KTMsm said:
9" (or larger) Roller of your preferred type on a pole

Brush to cut in

Why would you mess about with mini rollers ?
A mini roller might work better if the planks of the floor are not totally flat?
A big roller absorbs a lot of varnish which is wasted?

A normal sized room, it doesn't take much longer to do it with a 2" brush, so just use whatever tools work for you.