Best way to free this stopcock?

[Scarletpimpofnel]

This stopcock seems corroded open. I'd like it to be able to be used if necessary but don't want to force it (seems jammed rock solid!)

Is there any stuff I could use that is likely to free it ?

Many thanks

[tgr]

That will give you no end of trouble if you ever want to use it. Give up and stick a new one on the same circuit

[Road2Ruin]

If you touch it, it will leak. Best thing to do is replace it.

[OutInTheShed]

If you are mega lucky, the whole working part will unscrew from the body and be replaced by a new one.

[Simpo Two]

They always fail; I don't know why people fit them. I would replace it with a lever ball valve - infinitely better.

[Andeh1]

That's got headache all over it! 30% force it and you're fine, 30% force it but you get a leak from one of the joints, 40% you force it and something shears off.


Have you an external meter to shut off the water to the house? This is a plumber type job in my book.

[OutInTheShed]

Simpo Two said:

They always fail; I don't know why people fit them. I would replace it with a lever ball valve - infinitely better.

A traditonal stopcock shuts off more positively.

Personally, I've seen more leaks from ball valves.

[Wacky Racer]

OutInTheShed said:

If you are mega lucky, the whole working part will unscrew from the body and be replaced by a new one.

This.

Turn the water off at the mains and unscrew and fit a complete new fitting with a new washer, There will be a small amount of spillage, so try and catch as much as possible,

[Scarletpimpofnel]

Thanks all. I’ll see if I can find the external stop cock then get a plumber in.
Best to sort it before it’s needed.

[CoolHands]

I don’t know what these things are for. They never work when you need them

[TriumphStag3.0V8]

Wacky Racer said:

OutInTheShed said:

If you are mega lucky, the whole working part will unscrew from the body and be replaced by a new one.

This.

Turn the water off at the mains and unscrew and fit a complete new fitting with a new washer, There will be a small amount of spillage, so try and catch as much as possible,

If you do that, use a hose pipe on the drain valve on the left to let the water out from the house side of the system before removing the body - will be much cleaner!

[Scarletpimpofnel]

TriumphStag3.0V8 said:

If you do that, use a hose pipe on the drain valve on the left to let the water out from the house side of the system before removing the body - will be much cleaner!

Good tip. Ty

[Digger]

What is the white? Is that calcium deposit from corrosion, damp & minor leakage?

[blueg33]

I’ve always wondered why we persist in using stopcocks like this , they always seize.

In my houses I add a SureStop so the water can be turned off at the push of a button.

[SKM1984]

blueg33 said:

I’ve always wondered why we persist in using stopcocks like this , they always seize.

In my houses I add a SureStop so the water can be turned off at the push of a button.

Which I have just had replaced with a traditional stopcock due to not working, the o ring in the plunger behind the switch jammed and broke the plastic channel behind the switch, when I needed it most it let me down!

[Sheepshanks]

Simpo Two said:

They always fail; I don't know why people fit them. I would replace it with a lever ball valve - infinitely better.

Doesn’t a traditional stop-cock incorporate back flow prevention?

[M138]

To give yourself any chance if you’ve got a functional stop cock that’s not seized it might be useful to back it off by half a turn from maxed out. Should the inevitable happen it might help that you might be able to try and turn it in both directions, WITH CARE.

[Scarletpimpofnel]

OutInTheShed said:

If you are mega lucky, the whole working part will unscrew from the body and be replaced by a new one.

Hadn't thought of that as an option thanks.

[Tymb]

The white looks like calcium where it has dribbled over the years.
The nut above that looks like the nut for a packing gland, under/above that nut there is probably a leather washer. You tighten the nut and it squashes the washer sealing everything. When new the leather soaks up a like water and expands. The nut looks all the way tightened so the washer is probably shot. You could try loosening this and then try turning the handle, when they get old you end up tightening them right up to seal and it stops the handle turning.

If you're lucky, as above, you might be able to unscrew the guts and replace the rubber ring on the bottom and the packing gland. With a new gland the packing nut does not have to be really tight, do it up, turn water on, come back a bit later, if a bit of a drip just nip it up slightly more. The more you tighten the nut the stiffer the handle will be.

[Simpo Two]

Tymb said:

The white looks like calcium where it has dribbled over the years.

Maybe calcium hydroxide but not pure calcium.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDhl1jHncDc