Discussion
I have a small piece of very nice elm that needs to be sealed, and I'd like to keep it in its natural colour. The problem is that the grain is very porous in some places so anything with colour in gets absorbed and darkens the wood.
A professional joiner recommended Dulux Diamond Glaze but £30 is a lot for an area little more than a square foot. Any recommendations for a clear satin varnish please?
A professional joiner recommended Dulux Diamond Glaze but £30 is a lot for an area little more than a square foot. Any recommendations for a clear satin varnish please?
Simpo Two said:
I have a small piece of very nice elm that needs to be sealed, and I'd like to keep it in its natural colour. The problem is that the grain is very porous in some places so anything with colour in gets absorbed and darkens the wood.
A professional joiner recommended Dulux Diamond Glaze but £30 is a lot for an area little more than a square foot. Any recommendations for a clear satin varnish please?
Indoor or out?A professional joiner recommended Dulux Diamond Glaze but £30 is a lot for an area little more than a square foot. Any recommendations for a clear satin varnish please?
If indoor then shellac might be best. Dampen the wood to raise the grain and sand down, then a light coat of shellac to seal, sand again and then add coats as desired.
Whatever you use I would think the key may be to seal first with a light or diluted coat?
The best varnish for not changing the colour of things IMHO is International Perfection 2 pack.
But that's about £60 a tin.
But even a gin-clear varnish will change the look of the wood, just as sanding some dark paint matt makes it look a lighter colour.
Many of the waterbased varnishes have a slight purple tint in the can and give a good finish.
There are clear resins you could use. I've not gone down this route for a long time though.
Rattle can clear acryllic?
But that's about £60 a tin.
But even a gin-clear varnish will change the look of the wood, just as sanding some dark paint matt makes it look a lighter colour.
Many of the waterbased varnishes have a slight purple tint in the can and give a good finish.
There are clear resins you could use. I've not gone down this route for a long time though.
Rattle can clear acryllic?
wolfracesonic said:
I’m assuming it’s planed timber ? If yes, consider a grain filler.
It's planed (by me) and sanded. The pro suggested grain filler, but applied after the first coat so you know what colour the wood goes to avoid any nasty surprises if it changes.DonkeyApple said:
Indoor or out?
If indoor then shellac might be best. Dampen the wood to raise the grain and sand down, then a light coat of shellac to seal, sand again and then add coats as desired.
Whatever you use I would think the key may be to seal first with a light or diluted coat?
Indoors. I happened to use shellac recently on a theatre set; it seemed rather dark. It's part of the French polish scene which is rather specialist so perhaps best avoided for now.If indoor then shellac might be best. Dampen the wood to raise the grain and sand down, then a light coat of shellac to seal, sand again and then add coats as desired.
Whatever you use I would think the key may be to seal first with a light or diluted coat?
OutInTheShed said:
The best varnish for not changing the colour of things IMHO is International Perfection 2 pack.
But that's about £60 a tin.
But even a gin-clear varnish will change the look of the wood, just as sanding some dark paint matt makes it look a lighter colour.
Many of the waterbased varnishes have a slight purple tint in the can and give a good finish.
There are clear resins you could use. I've not gone down this route for a long time though.
Rattle can clear acryllic?
I think the porosity of the grain - think slightly rough to the touch even after sanding - will need a thicker treatment that aerosol. I've done a test on the underneath with some Ronseal interior gloss varnish I had lying about - as you say mauve in the tin and it seems good with the colour. I might get the satin version if nothing else better comes along.But that's about £60 a tin.
But even a gin-clear varnish will change the look of the wood, just as sanding some dark paint matt makes it look a lighter colour.
Many of the waterbased varnishes have a slight purple tint in the can and give a good finish.
There are clear resins you could use. I've not gone down this route for a long time though.
Rattle can clear acryllic?
Glass wouldn't give the natural look I'm after.
So currently it looks like Ronseal but in satin, and maybe with grain filler...
I used Ronseal Interior Varnish, Satin Clear "with Diamond Hard protection" on our oak stairs and doors, and it didn't change the colour of the wood in any real noticable way - which is exactly what I wanted. Two coats with very light sanding between and it's left an excellent finish (8 to 10 years in and still looking good as new). Used indoors obviously.
Rustins Clear Plastic Coating is excellent stuff - you can buy a small kit for aorund £15.
Good enough for Brian May's first guitar build.
And I did my last Elan dash with it and it came up an absolute treat.
You can build it up thick, flat it back and then burnish to a mirror finish (satin if you like). It's like a piece of glass over your item and very hardwearing
Good enough for Brian May's first guitar build.
And I did my last Elan dash with it and it came up an absolute treat.
You can build it up thick, flat it back and then burnish to a mirror finish (satin if you like). It's like a piece of glass over your item and very hardwearing
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff