How to fix lifted veneer on an exterior door?

[Nigel_O]

When I ordered the door and side-panel, I asked for solid oak, but I recently spotted that the veneer is lifting, which confirms either a) I wasn’t paying attention, or b) I’ve been stitched up. That’s a story for another day…

The retailer is now saying I didn’t use the correct treatment for an engineered wood door (I used what they told me to use when I bought it), so they are trying to wriggle out of a claim. Annoyingly, I don’t have proof of asking for a solid oak door and I don’t have proof of them telling me which treatment to use, so I’m not in a position of strength here.

In the meantime, is there a way to fix this? It’s a front door, so clearly I can’t have the door off for any length of time, especially at this time of year

[wolfracesonic]

Doesn’t look good does it? I’d say the only option is to work some exterior glue behind the veneer and hope that it sticks to whatever is under there. Titebond III is a pva type, cleans up with water and is outdoor rated. You may have to take the door off, lay it flat and put some weight on the veneer to flatten it for a couple of hours. I wouldn’t get your hopes up too much though tbh, if it has delaminated in one spot, I can’t see the rest of the door being far behind.

[Simpo Two]

How old is the door? Veneer out in the weather seems like a problem waiting to happen. You can see the grey bits where the lacquer has flaked off and the water got in.

[Simpo Two]

Nigel_O said:

The retailer is now saying I didn’t use the correct treatment for an engineered wood door

To which you say 'Yes I did'. You can't prove it, but equally they can't prove you didn't. It may be a consumer rights question, hence the age of door question.

[OutInTheShed]

Might be best to cut a little 'dart' out of the raised bit, so the glue can get in, and the veneer will go down flat.

You could clamp it down flat with the door still hung, by using a sash cramp and wedges down to the veneer?

Polyurethane glue is probably a good call if the wood is damp, but epoxy is my favourite TBH.

I used Rustins quick dry exterior varnish for a few boat bits, and it's performed well FWIW.

[eniacs]

Simpo Two said:

To which you say 'Yes I did'. You can't prove it, but equally they can't prove you didn't. It may be a consumer rights question, hence the age of door question.

The protective film made by the varnish would still be on the door if he had applied it. They have reps that go round and check this stuff as its a common problem with engineered doors.

I had similar with my front door. My carpenter had decided that the supplied stuff wasnt any good and only applied one layer of the outer stuff. The door quickly failed and the supplier was also quick to point out the lack of protective paint that they supplied with it, on the door itself.

My door is 10x worse than yours now but from 2m away still looks ok. I also took mine off, glued it, sanded it and properly coated it, but it was too late and it was already on its way to destruction. Its still there though, looking a little worse than it should do.

[Nigel_O]

Thanks for the replies so far

Door was fitted in July 2020

It was delivered with no treatment and I used Osmo oil (as instructed by the retailer) - four coats prior to fitting by their fitters. The retailer is now saying ‘it’s not their policy to recommend Osmo oil, but they recommend Sikkens Filter 7’.

After the problem arose, I did some research to find the manufacturer, and their literature does indeed mention Sikkens, but I wasn’t provided with this at the time of purchase.

[OutInTheShed]

Nigel_O said:

Thanks for the replies so far

Door was fitted in July 2020

It was delivered with no treatment and I used Osmo oil (as instructed by the retailer) - four coats prior to fitting by their fitters. The retailer is now saying ‘it’s not their policy to recommend Osmo oil, but they recommend Sikkens Filter 7’.

After the problem arose, I did some research to find the manufacturer, and their literature does indeed mention Sikkens, but I wasn’t provided with this at the time of purchase.

Does it get much sun?
Four winters is a lot for varnish or any clear oil based coating.

There is more than one 'Sikkens', but what most people mean by that is a wood stain which would IMHO look st.
Likewise there are various 'Osmo' products.

Very few outdoor wood coatings offer better than 'up to 5 years' and in the harsh reality of the weather, that's dependent on the wood not moving enough to break the coating.

[Nigel_O]

OutInTheShed said:

Does it get much sun?

The house has a dormer roof and the door is protected by a 2-foot overhang, just above the door. Yes, it gets some sun (south-east facing), but not vast amounts, as there are large trees outside the house

[KTMsm]

If I were the retailer I would point out all the places the finish has obviously come off and that it has needed treatment for at least a year

If it makes you feel any better, the composite door, I bought to avoid these very problems, has cracked

[Simpo Two]

Nigel_O said:

Door was fitted in July 2020

It was delivered with no treatment and I used Osmo oil (as instructed by the retailer) - four coats prior to fitting by their fitters. The retailer is now saying ‘it’s not their policy to recommend Osmo oil, but they recommend Sikkens Filter 7’.

After the problem arose, I did some research to find the manufacturer, and their literature does indeed mention Sikkens, but I wasn’t provided with this at the time of purchase.

So Osmo oil in 2020, then nothing? I hadn't gathered that from your original post.

That's the problem I think - you needed to keep an eye on it and re-coat it before the veneer broke up. The perils of having veneer outside IMHO.

[Nigel_O]

Simpo Two said:

The perils of having veneer outside IMHO.

And there’s the other half of the story - I asked for a solid oak door and was under the impression I’d got one until the veneer started lifting.

[Simpo Two]

Nigel_O said:

And there’s the other half of the story - I asked for a solid oak door and was under the impression I’d got one until the veneer started lifting.

That's a bugger. What does the invoice say? If it was called 'engineered', it ain't solid oak. So either they mis-sold it, or you took your eye off the ball unfortunately

Going forward, 1/3 sheet sander and plenty of top quality varnish

[Nigel_O]

Simpo Two said:

That's a bugger. What does the invoice say? If it was called 'engineered', it ain't solid oak. So either they mis-sold it, or you took your eye off the ball unfortunately

I reckon it’s down to me - I definitely asked for solid oak, but at some point, they’ve recommended a certain door and I’ve missed where they’ve said ‘engineered’. I’m never going to be able to prove it, so I’ll have to suck it up…

However, they definitely didn’t provide me with any treatment guidelines - just said ‘four coats of preservative’ at which point, I asked them which one, to be told ‘Osmo oil’

The solid oak sill / step has started to go grey, so the intention was to re-treat it this year anyway. If I’d known it was veneered, I’d have done it before now.

[DonkeyApple]

Nigel_O said:

I reckon it’s down to me - I definitely asked for solid oak, but at some point, they’ve recommended a certain door and I’ve missed where they’ve said ‘engineered’. I’m never going to be able to prove it, so I’ll have to suck it up…

However, they definitely didn’t provide me with any treatment guidelines - just said ‘four coats of preservative’ at which point, I asked them which one, to be told ‘Osmo oil’

The solid oak sill / step has started to go grey, so the intention was to re-treat it this year anyway. If I’d known it was veneered, I’d have done it before now.

Been there. Done that.

I now ask companies to confirm details by email having learned the hard way.

Probably all a bit damp for fixing brilliantly at the moment but the right glue syringed in via a flexible tube should achieve good coverage and then clamping.

Ideally you'd take the door off in the morning, tape up the door way and aim to have it back on before bed time.

Worst case scenario, I'd drill through the four corners of the lower plate, use the two where the veneer was lifting to put bolts and plates on to clamp it for as long as it took to set and then plug with oak dowel afterwards. You'd almost certainly still see 5mm plugs after so that would be a last resort.