What wood crumbs to repair ikea hinge holes

What wood crumbs to repair ikea hinge holes

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Discussion

CoolHands

Original Poster:

19,435 posts

202 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
Heavy wardrobe door (has mirror on other side), bottom hinge. I am hoping I can rescue the 2 screw holes. (The large hole is not the problem). I am imagining using pva and crumbly wood crumbs(?) to pack out the 2 screw holes, and use a clamp to flatten it out while it dries IYSWIM. The screws they use are bit unusual as they are quite wide, not normal wood screws.



Any other ideas? What wood crumbs, I only have normal bits of wood so not sure what to glue into these holes! Or, I could make round dowel, insert, glue, and once dry then drill out? It’s a bit annoying as wasting a whole door for this is such a waste. At the moment it doesn’t look irretrievable





Dr mtree

27 posts

109 months

Sunday 10th November
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Something like this might be easier to make that a good repair

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repair-Rust-Resistant-Fur...

J6542

2,054 posts

51 months

Sunday 10th November
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As mentioned get a hinge repair kit, instead of trying to glue anything in the existing holes

tegwin

1,647 posts

213 months

Sunday 10th November
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Move the hinge 6” up the door into fresh wood?!

CoolHands

Original Poster:

19,435 posts

202 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
Great thanks didn’t know about that repair plate. Got same one on ebay for 3 quid, now on its way!

(Tegwin I could move it up one section, but drilling the large 35mm hole, 12.5mm deep, for the main part of the hinge would be difficult I decided).

I-A

422 posts

164 months

paulwirral

3,387 posts

142 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
CoolHands said:
Great thanks didn’t know about that repair plate. Got same one on ebay for 3 quid, now on its way!

(Tegwin I could move it up one section, but drilling the large 35mm hole, 12.5mm deep, for the main part of the hinge would be difficult I decided).
There’s a freely available bit specifically for this job , b&q or screw fix sell them , they even have a depth gauge.

tegwin

1,647 posts

213 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
paulwirral said:
There’s a freely available bit specifically for this job , b&q or screw fix sell them , they even have a depth gauge.
11 English pounds. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-...

CoolHands

Original Poster:

19,435 posts

202 months

Wednesday 13th November
quotequote all
Unfortunately the plate is annoyingly no good. For ikea hinges at least. Neither of the 2 pairs of holes line up properly with the ikea hinge screw holes.

I used it and maybe it helps to take some weight, but I wouldn’t buy again and would not recommend. It essentially misaligns the hinge a bit so also when closed the door doesn’t sit flush as it should and actually causes a bit of strain in use.

I will later at some point use the dowel method as per video.








CorradoTDI

1,599 posts

178 months

Wednesday 13th November
quotequote all
That's odd as Ikea used to use the Blum hinges which are industry standard (and that kit should fit)

There are a few options but i'd consider a new door too - shouldn't be expensive from Ikea unless they no longer do the colour and you need to change them all.

Bluevanman

7,856 posts

200 months

Wednesday 13th November
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I've used matchsticks in the holes on door frames,they work a treat

CoolHands

Original Poster:

19,435 posts

202 months

Wednesday 13th November
quotequote all
Discontinued! The dowel method will work probably, but I thought this would be more straightforward.

sospan

2,591 posts

229 months

Thursday
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Have you tried the adjustments within the hinge? There might be enough to eliminate/ reduce the mis-alignment.

Danm1les

832 posts

147 months

Thursday
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I have used matchsticks before on a utility cupboard door. Don't know if I would trust it on a mirrored door.

If you replace both doors, can you get ones that fit? Assuming its a PAX wardrobe?

Watcher of the skies

660 posts

44 months

Thursday
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tegwin said:
paulwirral said:
There’s a freely available bit specifically for this job , b&q or screw fix sell them , they even have a depth gauge.
11 English pounds. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-straight-shank-...
You can also cut the hole by hand using a router if you are careful.

Tye Green

791 posts

116 months

Thursday
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get some 2 part epoxy - even that quick setting stuff from pound shops will be ok for this

stage 1) pull off the cracked parts of chip board (they should accurately refit into their respective original positions) and with some epoxy re-attach them

stage 2) when stage 1 epoxy has hardened use a chisel /scraper to remove high points and ensure the whole area is flat

stage 3) mix more epoxy and a) fill the screw holes b) make a puddle in the big hole and permanently set the hinge into it and refit the screws

Byker28i

67,858 posts

224 months

Thursday
quotequote all
CoolHands said:
Great thanks didn’t know about that repair plate. Got same one on ebay for 3 quid, now on its way!

(Tegwin I could move it up one section, but drilling the large 35mm hole, 12.5mm deep, for the main part of the hinge would be difficult I decided).
You can get a drill bit specifically for that. I did it when I moved kitchen doors around

singlecoil

34,242 posts

253 months

The thing to use on those screw holes is epoxy resin, ideally the slow setting stuff (e.g. standard Araldite). Do not use it as room temperature. To work it needs to be heated with a hairdryer until it goes runny and clear. Apply it to the holes and continue to warm it until all the bubbles come out, then after a couple of hours when it has started to set use a sharp blade to trim the bulge flat with the melamine surface, then leave it to fully cure (overnight at least).

CoolHands

Original Poster:

19,435 posts

202 months

Cheers. Would the screw then go directly into that araldite plug?

singlecoil

34,242 posts

253 months

You would need to pilot drill it first. The screws in the photo are called system screws and are designed to work well on composite materials such as chipboard. They need a 5mm pilot drill so you will need to do that before screwing in. I shouldn't think you need to fill the resin with anything.

The problem is going to be the integrity of the chipboard itself. The resin (or whatever else you put in there) needs to grip the chipboard surrounding it, and if that gives way then it doesn't matter what you do, the repair will fail.

It's evident that the hinge is under heavy load. If you want to keep the door and cabinet as is then fitting more hinges is the long term answer. Something like this should work.
https://uk.banggood.com/ENJOYWOOD-Concealed-Hinge-...

You would need to make sure the 35mm holes for the other hinges are the same distance from the door edge as the existing hole.

Edited by singlecoil on Friday 15th November 11:07